ZISW480DRI General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

What an awesome site! After putting in my model number and finding the problem I was having, I simply picked the 2 parts that were most likely to solve the problem. I bought a defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. To a high certainty, they would solve my problem. They didn't however! I ended up having to buy a temperature sensor on another order a few weeks later when the problem resurfaced! My own fault. I should have bought it the first time. As others have written: the longest part of the job is defrosting the ice from the coil. One thing I did that I didn't see suggested: plug the drain hole below the coil. I put a couple towels in the bottom of the freezer and ran the hair dryer. Didn't take long. I read that the amount of water created will overflow the pan under the refrigerator, so I plugged the drain hole. Once you clean that mess up, the repair is pretty straight forward. Great site. Even through I had to make two separate purchases, I still saved a lot of money. Thanks!

I identified the noise was coming from the coils / and the fan. Cleaning the fan helped reduce the noise a bit but it still kept recurring. I ordered the part, which was really easy using the diagram on the website. The instructions and the video were really helpful and was able to remove the old motor and replace it with the new one with relative ease. While there I cleaned the fan blade and vacuumed the surrounding area. This whole repair went quite smoothly and has given me the confidence to take on other repairs before calling out the repairman.

Slip the front cover off by gently pulling down, carefully un-plug the wire connectors (x3), remove 4 screws and remove paddle assembly. 2 screws hold the flap on and 3 hold the solenoid. Replace the screws with stainless so they won't rust. I tried coating the solenoid in lithum grease to prevent rust, onlt time will tell if it works.

I just follow to the video and take step by step. It's was very helpful and easy. Thank you.

Removed the Control Panel and the outside of the Dispenser Outlet. Removed the Flapper Door and the solenoid. Replaced both parts with new parts, and re-assembled. The pin, at the top of the Solenoid was badly worn and the plastic arm was very rough on the surface adjacent to the worn pin.

I followed the video provided by PartSelect, very helpful. I had to cut and splice 4 wires. The repair was successful. The replacement part was an exact duplicate of the original. I still notice the same sound but one tenth the volume. I hope the problem does not return. Many thanks to PartSelect for information to identify the problem and prompt shipping of the repair part.

Turned the water off to the refrigerator. Pulled the refrigerator away from the wall opening. Removed the back lower panel. Removed the lines to the water valve. Removed the electrical connections. Installed the water lines on the new valve and verified they would not pull out of the push in connections. Installed the electrical connections. Turned the water on and checked for leaks and proper operation. Reinstalled the back panel and positioned the refrigerator in it's proper position.

Removed control panel by inserting small screwdriver in the 3 holes underneath to loosen. Remove 4 screws holding circuit board . Unplugged 3 connectors. Removing circuit board gave access to flapper. Removed flapper by unclipping. Installed new flapper and reversed disassembly procedure. This was 2nd time in 2 years I had to replace this part.

After recieving the water pump and ice maker repair kit,i had my laptop on the counter. Your video of Steve the repair man made the job extreamly easy. Your concept of ordering and repairing is awesome! Thanks.

Ice maker was side mount instead of rear mount as shown in previous insructions. Removed one screw and slide ice maker forward. used flat head screw driver to undo the ice maker plug. The ice maker came right out. Removed old ice maker fill cup and put it on the new ice maker. Slide the new ice maker into place and used the same screw to secure it. Pluged it in and turned on the ice maker. Had new ice in a couple of hours. It comes with a round plug to square plug adapter, new fill cup and fill tube, all of which I didn't use.

Only needed to remove one screw, slide unit out and disconnect the power cord. Theb reverse the above operation to install the replace ice maker unit. Quick and extremely easy....

Had to remove all the covers and fans to expose the condenser, which was difficult as the parts were frozen to it. The styrofoam covering the condenser made it almost impossible to defrost it. Therefore, I ripped the styrofoam off to expose the condenser. Was not really difficult to fix the styrofoam cover using metal tape. Replaced temperature sensor in aluminum block, and used butyl sealant to secure. Had to also re-install parts of ice-ball kit that were not well covered. Lots of parts to keep track of, but anyone could do it.

took 1 screw out and removed ice maker and slid new one in and replace screw and connected power cord

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

Removed the trim around the entire opening. Be very careful. The trim is held in place with 4 pressure "prongs" on each side and 2 at the top which can easily break (I broke 4 of the 10 not knowing this). Two are 1/2" from the top and bottom, the other two are at about 1/3 from the top and bottom. There is a slot on either side under the bottom of the trim. Insert a screw driver in one and carefully pry the side up enough to slide a knife or putty knife under the trim and press the first "prong" to release the trim. Release the remaining three, then the 2 at the top. The trim should come off then, but if not you may have to release the 4 on the other side.

Next remove the control module which is also held in place by 2 prongs on the bottom. Insert a long screw driver behind the module to release the prongs and release the module. Alternatively, press down on the top side very carefully to avoid breaking the plastic until it releases. Remove the electrical sockets from the circuit board to get the board out of the way. I could not get the larger one to release so I taped a folded paper towel over the circuit board to avoid shocking or damaging the board as it hung there while I did the rest of the work.

Remove the 4 screws holding the ice funnel unit. Remove the unit and release the tension on the spring ASAP because the plastic “plate” above it that helps hold it in place is thin and fragile. (The corner of the plastic plate cracked and bent upward on mine so that I feared it was going to break off altogether when I put the tension back on the spring. So, I laid a 4" metal strap over it and secured it with 5 large paper clips to stabilize it. So far it is working.)

Remove the old funnel and install the new one.

Reassemble everything.