ZFSB23DNASS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

exactly as described in your video.

Disconnected power to unit. Using small Allen wrench unhooked 2 catches in electronic control panel. There are two holes underneath. Push up and pull out on panel as you release the catches. Remove wires. Remove 4 Phillips head screws in plastic panel, then remove panel. Solenoid has 3 screws. I replaced my screws being they were very rusty along with the solenoid. The spring on the door is easily replaced by removing two small screws on each side of the door hinge. There probably was nothing wrong with the old spring but for insurance replaced. Put the unit back together, no more ice buildup and clogging in ice chute through door. Likely saved $100 in labor repair bill by doing myself. Note: There is a few seconds time delay on the door closing. At first I thought I hadn't fixed the problem but then realized a delay in built into the system to avoid the door getting caught on any slow falling ice.

Just snapped it in. I don't know the gentlemen's name that helped me on the phone, but, he was great!

I watched the vidio on your site, it was very helpful. Careful lifted the frame, unhooked the display panel. With phillip screwdriver took the 4 srews off, unhooked the pc board. Take out 2 srews for the doorflapper. Loosen top screw for soliniod, take out 2 bottom srews and take out soliniod. Clean up area with paper-towel. Replace all new parts. And it works great again.

Based on instruction I replaced the defrost thermostat and the temperature sensor. There was no improvement. The defrost thermostat was supplied with orange and red wires. the original wires were orange and pink. I connected the 2 orange wires and the pink to the red. So I don't really know if that is the problem or not. currently I don't know what to do next anyone got an ideas? It has dual evaporation.

After what I thought was a thorough troubleshooting of said problem I replaced the Water Valve Assy which was really easy as the video shared, but it did not fix my problem. I had forgotten to pull the water line apart at the coupling below the doors (this was a troubleshooting step in another area). The water not dispensing was due to the line being frozen! Putting all items in a cooler with a couple blocks of ice and leaving the freezer door open for the length of watching a movie, the water was flowing again. Still no ice though. Ice maker vs mother board at the rear of the fridge, Hmmmm. Went with the ice maker, watched video, ole Steve makes the plugs disconnecting look easy, I had to use a flat head screwdriver to open the clips (he doesn't mention that) and I had 4 screws where he had 3. Also he didn't mention about the instructions which gives you 3 options with your unit. I had to re-use my Plastic Stripper Plate along with the Fill Cup and Ice Maker Insert. After completion of installation and about a half hour later, I heard ice fall, Wooohoooo!!! Overall the experience will make me think to utilize PartSelect again when needed. Reasonable prices and decent shipping time. Now the freezer light is out...

Pull out bottom drawer, and drawer above. Lift front of bottom drawer cover assembly, then slide back. Remove 4 screws, and rubber sealing strips on underside of cover. Put mechanism on new cover with screws and attached sealing strips. Replacement part fit fine, but didn't have the decal plate. Not sure if that cover/decal is a different part number, as diagram was not specific.

Hardest part was removing the escutcheon around the ice maker on the door. Used a putty knife to find first clip pullout than the rest was easy. Disconnecting plugs from circuit board not as easy as looks, broke one locking clip have to be more careful when lifting the small clips. Once done than removed plastic casing and and easily removed the flapper and replaced with new one. Since I didn't know what I would encounter I ordered a spring and the arm that holds the flapper. I pre- assembled the parts and had it ready to install once I removed the defective part. Whole job under ten minutes...GE service starts at $99.95 just to come and look at it, than parts and labor after that I saved at least $100 dollars. Very easy fix.

Performed repair per the PartSelect on-linevideo. Some posters had said the solenoid could be rusted, so I had ordered one. Turned out to be fine, and I have returned it. I much appreciated the hint from another poster, that it was no longer necessary to pry the escutcheon off the door, and merely pressing inside the outer 2 holes on the bottom of the control panel would suffice. I encountered no complications. Frist problem is gone.

With my hands and tools. It was real easy. Now just waiting to see it that was the problem.