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Dishwasher leaking from pump shaft seal
first, I removed the screws holding the dishwasher to the countertop.Then I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned the dishwasher on it's back and loosened the three hose clamps securing the water connections to the pump assembly. I then removed the electrical plug to the motor and the screw holding the support rod to the motor. Then I worked the loosened water connections apart and removed the pump and motor assembly. Then I removed the hose clamp and plug from one of the orifices on the new pump, and aligned all of the water connections and wiggled the new pump assembly into place. I tightened the hose clamps, Installed the new screw and support bar to the motor, and connected the electrical plug. I then turned the dishwasher upright, reconnected the power cord, water supply and drain lines and started a wash cycle to check the new system for leaks. I found that the extraneous drain solenoid that came attached to the new pump was loose and rattling, so I secured the solenoid shaft and linkage to the pump housing with electrical tape to stop the rattling.
I opened the D/W door, used needle nose pliers to remove the old baffles. They come right out. I cleaned the area using paper towels and installed the new baffles. They just sit in the corners with nothing holding them. Simple job.
Remove old left and right corner tub baffles, make certain area where the new baffles are to be inserted is clean and free of any debris. Gently press new baffles in to each corner. Remove old gasket insert and replace with new. Tell wife the job was a three hour ordeal that require advanced skills to complete!
I replaced the top filler tube. (The $65 price for the filler tube is outrageous. Glad I didn't have a service man fix it. With mark-up it would have cost me over $100 for a 3 foot plastic tube. Crazy!)
While I was add it, I replaced the corner tub baffles.
The small 4" gasket was missing from the machine, and the large gasket was bent and out of place. I ordered the small gasket and installed it into the groove, placing the end flaps behind the large gasket. The large gasket was questionable, but I did not replace it. It seemed OK after I snapped it back into the door groove. Once the gaskets were properly aligned, I carefully replaced the inside door panel and screws. No more leak!
leaking selenoid told repair cost would exceed replacement cost
Shut off circuit breaker to dishwasher and shut off valve to dishwasher under sink.Remove bottom access panel screws on both sides of panel. Remove both screws holding dishwasher to counter.Place old mattboard strips under legs to prevent scratching floor & slide out from under counter. Use a Shopvac to remove water and spillage. Have rags and paper towels handy. Carefully disconnect wires, drain hose and water line to free dishwasher. Fold old rug runner in half to place dishwasher on, turn on side and then gently upside down on rug to access motor. Remove butterfly clamps, hose clamps, electrical connections, and support bracket. remove old motor and pump and place in box to discard. Position replacement motor and pump according to diagrams. Reconnect all clips, hoses and connections. Since replacement motor and pump is smaller, use longer support bracket from adapter kit. Return dishwasher to upright position and reconnect wiring using wirenuts, drain hose and waterline. Reposition mattboard strips under legs and slide back into place. Attach screws to counter top. Turn on power, water and do a test run to check for leakage. Replace bottom access panel. Pat yourself on the back since you've saved yourself hundreds of dollars for a repair or replacement of your dishwasher.
1. Manually unscrewed the lower dishwasher sprayer from the base of the dishwasher. (The filter gasket cannot come out with this in the way.)
2. Using a nut driver, unscrewed the old plastic filter cage in the rear.
3. Thanks to a tip from another user on this site, I carefully pried up the metal grommets on the two plastic studs in the front. I did this slowly with a flathead screwdriver, as I was worried about breaking the plastic. (Some plastic did whittle off of the studs from the sharpness of the grommets, but not so much that they were ruined.) Note, the studs look like something that can be replaced if you break them. They are not molded into the tub, as far as I can tell.
4. Removed the old (rotten looking gasket). Be careful! The edges around the filter drain are sharp. Used a turkey baster to suck out water from the filter area and wiped away mildew. The filter recess had broken glass in it and some other yucky stuff.
5. Easily reversed process with the new gasket. The new one has a lighter color and has the plastic, upside down basket thingy built-in. (No sharp edges). I pushed the metal grommets back onto the plastic studs, working them down as tightly as possible. They seem to be holding well.
Piston and Nut Assembly for Check Valve:
I wasn't sure I needed this, but ordered it anyway after seeing comments that the seal can corrode. Mine looked ok, apart from food build-up, but I replaced it anyways.
1. Removed the screened housing that covers the length of the bottom-rear using nut driver.
2. Unscrewed the existing valve manually. It was easy to do. Cleaned area out as best as I could.
I received panels about week after I ordered them, however the large panel came scratched. I immediately called your customer service who was extremely helpful and considerate. She ordered me a replacement and it arrived the very next day..
I made this replacement more dificult because I removed the old motor/pump earlier. Should have done it at the time I installed the new unit to be sure all hoses where installed correctly. I hooked the drain hose to the wrong port and when I started the dishwasher I found my error. Once I corrected the problem and started it again - the wash and drain cycles were perfect and there were no leaks.
I popped off the front track stops--pretty easy with a little twisting and slid the basket out. A little leverage with a screw driver and the roller axle slipped off easily. Popped the new ones on, slid the basket back into the track and popped the stops in place and the job was done in under 15 minutes.
Since the pump and the motor was a single unit, I removed the assembly by disconnecting the electrical plugs and drainage connections. This was a very simple installation. I reversed the above steps, reinstalled the dishwasher and all worked out well.
Dishwasher was leaking between the pump motor and pump assembly
The repair went smoothly. There were actually instructions included with the parts, so that was nice. The only "gotcha" I found was that . . . after you take off the old food-chopper, you have unscrew the old impeller from the motor shaft. This was a bit difficult and you'll want some good pliers to do it. Don't worry about stripping where the food chopper screwed on-to, that part is attached to the impeller and there is a new one on the new impeller. When I re-installed everything onto the dishwasher, it rattled the first couple of times while the wear-ring was finding it's seat. Don't worry, that's normal. It went away by the third wash. I think I still have a small crack in the pump housing, though. The pump housing is two halves of molded plastic fused together along a seam, and I think the seam is starting to leak. It's about one drop every 45 seconds. I'm thinking JB Weld will fix it.
This was one of the easiest fixes i have ever done. All you need is a screwdriver. the hardest part about it was unscrewing the old spray arm. I found it was easiest to break the tabs on the old spray arm and pull out the spray tower, leaving the bottom part in. The bottom is the part to unscrew. I then put the metal end of the screwdriver through the two holes where the tabs were and used the screwdriver as a handle to unscrew it. Once it was taken out, I screwed the new spray arm in - buy hand -. You can feel it lock when it is all the way in.
First I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned it onto it's side so I had access to the motor and pump underneath. I determined which version of the old pump I had. I removed the old part and easily installed the new motor/pump following the directions. It took a little while for the water to begin flowing when I started it back up. Eventually it did get going.