I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
I refered to what I had read on repair stories of broken glass...then went to fixing mine and before I new it I was done and glass replaced...it was very easy as long as you watch what you are doing when u take it apart and replace things the same as they were removed......thank you
Turned breaker off. Removed oven door for access, two screws loosened element, unplugged wires from element & removed element. Reverse order to install. Perfect fit. Thanks.
This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.
Inner door glass broke from contact with cooler liquid.
I followed the instructions submitted by other users which were helpful. Two notes that might help someone. 1. To loosen the screws holding the inner door glass, use channel lock type pliers to slightly twist the square bracket the screw is holding. The screw comes out easily then. 2. Note that the flange on the side rails go UNDER the glass door front. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get screw holes lined up with the flanges on top - DUH!
I Broke The Inner Glass On My Oven Door With A Pizza Stone
I did the repair myself while my husband was at work. I lacked the brute strength to remove the door, so I ended up taking in apart while it was in place. Unfortunately, I only now noticed that instructions for installation were provided on your website. I did it without instruction, just making sure to note where screws had been removed so I'd be able to reassemble the works when I was finished. The worst part was loosening a couple of the innermost screws--even after a long soak in wd40, they were really hard to crack loose. Once I managed that, though, it went smoothly. Don't be intimidated; you can do this stuff yourself without calling--and paying--a repairman.
That should have been an easy repair according to previous responders that replaced this part.
The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.
The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.
NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.
Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!
After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)
