WGD9600SU0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I read some of the repairs of other people and this best described my situation. I ordered the Radiant Flame Sensor and followed the step by step instructions in the video for the repair, which by the way was excellent. It couldn't have been easier. My most difficult part of the repair was moving my dryer out of the laundry closet.

Followed instuctions on video accept our appliance was the Duet HT model so we had a glass window to deal with. Just a few more screws to keep track of but otherwise a very easy repair.

Replaced the thermistor, thermostat, moisture sensor and the moisture sensor wire harness and the problem did not clear up. Tested both coils on the gas valve and the ohms readings for all 3 tests were within range. The burner would light and work until it shut off for the 1st time, it would attempt to relight but the gas valve would not open. Replaced the coils with Part # PS334310, 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit and the problem was corrected.

replaoed igniter ,easy to do after watching video

ordered new latch. Arrived promptly. Installed in 5 minutes. Actually easied than the video. Thanks

Initially diagnosed the failure mode as a faulty thermal fuse and when the fuse was replaced was encouraged to find the heat working...then it shut off again. After a period of time that the dryer was off the heat would come back on. After reviewing the site extensively I found a description of the failure mode similar to mine and determined to replace the 2-terminal & 3-terminal coils (kit is less expensive than either by itself). My older Whirlpool dryer needeed to have the top panel removed in order to get to the front panel screws and once the front panel was removed the coil assembly was pretty easy to identify. The retention "plate" was attached via screws that were a little tough to get to but an offset phillips screw driver did the trick. The coils were "keyed" in such a way that they would only insert one way to be properly oriented. So I've earned my appliance repair merit badge.

The Door Catch Kit had clear instructions for installation and included multiple replacement catches to fit several different sizes/varieties of dryers. I used a screwdriver to pry out the broken door catch, popped in the replacement, and was done! As usual, PartSelect had what I needed at a good price, with clear instructions for any needed installation. Fast shipping, too.

Repair was fairly easy, lots of screws to remove but the instructions in the online repair manual were very clear. Lots of stuff to remove (top, front, drum, etc.) but not too challenging. Only tough thing was disconnecting one of the connectors on the electronics board, had to use a pair of pliers to squeeze the part to get them separated. Once I had it all apart it was very easy to replace the wheels and the belt. Putting it back together was easier than taking it apart.

Remove lower bottom cover (two screws on bottom) with screw driver. Remove old radiant flame sensor from left side of tube with ignior by using socket wretch. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Put new part in: put wires back on, insert part's lower tab into the tube ( there is a small slot) use socket wrench to tighten screw at top. Put bottom front panel back on and screw back in.

My Daughter and I have the same washer and dryer from Maytag. Her felt piece came apart on the lint filter. I let my fingers do the walking and checked which filter went with the dryer and purchased it. When it got here, I made sure it matched up with the old one and just put it in the dryer where it belonged.

I removed the front lower panel and could access the parts easily. This model of dryer was a little tricky as to what needed to be removed to access the parts. It was easy to take off the flame sensor and the therminal gas valve and replace. I watched your video on changing these parts but it didn't help much as the model in your video was newer and the parts were not in the same location on my dryer. the top on my dryer could not be popped up it was held by screws accessed by working from the bottom panels up. It turned out I only needed to take off the bottom kick panel to replace the parts it needed. The dryer works fine and the information,you provided on your website about what parts cause this problem most of the time on this dryer helped me to order the correct parts.

This was by far so easy the instruction Partselect gave me where right on step by step. a repair man was going to charge 75$ just to come out 9$ from partselect. Thank you very much Mike chaplin

Remove front cover to expose internal parts, igniter would glow and gas vavle would click ,but no flame in auto, would light in manual but go out quick. Gas valve coils bad. Thermistor was testing good but I replaced it in case it had anything to do with quick flame shut down. $25 Dryer fixed for $50. Clean out lint in all vent duct work to make sure a clog is not the problem for quick flame shut down as well.

1. Disconnect power cord and remove flexible duct. 2. Tilt dryer back and lean against wall, using folded towel to prevent wall damage. 3. Remove front/bottom panel - 4 screws on front/bottom of dryer. 4. Make alignment marks on internal vent duct where it attaches to vent bottom duct housing. Remove internal vent duct screw (towards front/top of duct) and slide vent duct out back of dryer (duct has to be removed to remove back panel) 5. Remove top panel (4 screws on back/top). 6. Remove AC power terminal block from back panel, disconnecting wire that restricts free movement of terminal block. Remove power cord from terminal block (3 nuts). Remove back panel (many screws). 7. From rear of dryer, gain access to idler pulley spring arm. Carefully note how belt routes around motor pulley and idler pulley (maybe record an image). Release belt from idler pulley. 8. Remove idler pulley triangle retainer (if still on pulley shaft) and remove old pulley. 9. Thoroughly vacuum lint and dust from all areas of dryer, internal duct, flexible duct and duct in wall (as far as possible) while dryer is in disassembled state. 10. Thoroughly clean idler pulley shaft of deposits with cloth. If desired, add very small amount of Park Tools Polylube 1000 to the cleaned shaft. 11. Install new washer, idler pulley and triangle retainer to shaft. 12. Re-route belt around pulley in original orientation. 13. Reassemble rear panel to dryer, terminal block to rear panel, and power cable and internal wire to terminal block. 14. Reassemble top cover to dryer. 15. Insert internal duct back into front vent duct, aligning guide marks, and secure with the one screw. 16. Plug unit in and briefly test, then unplug. 17. Again, tilt dryer against wall and reinstall front/bottom panel and screws. 18. Install flexible duct, plug in power cord and position unit for operation.

The gas would light briefly then go out so the clothes were never heated. I googled the problem and found your website and read a few blogs describing the problem, ordered the coils, popped them in and presto it worked.