WGD9600SU0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I took the old filter out and placed the new one in the same spot.

Had to unstack the unit took it apart and replace the rollers,Belt and Idler Pulley It was the pulley making the noise but I had it a part and for the cost I replace the rollers and the Belt the Job was easy The Washer and Dryer are Great we run about 2 Loads a Day

I watched the video and after that made the repair, it was very easy and the video was a really big help. From start to finish it took me no longer than 10 minutes.

After removing the back & top of the dryer,I determined the noise was coming the idler pulley.I went online w/ model # & found Partselect.com.I ordered the dryer repair kit (at my door in 3 days) which included all the rollers,idler pulley, belt & hardware.It was an easy job to do even tho instructions were for top control panel model (mine is a whirlpool duet- front control) I did try using silicone lubricant on idler pulley, which worked to quiet dryer for a couple days so my wife could use it while I was waing for parts.Two thumbs up to Partselect.com,I will be purchasing all my appliance repair parts from them..I own all whirlpool stainless steel appliances that have been very reliable,but it's nice to know I have Partselect to fix problems as needed.

self...right part thank you

ILove your service. The part came in 3 days. Best parts service I have ever found. I was told by the dealer it would take 2 weeks to come in.

Thank you for your part service. It saved me about $ 200.00 dollars by Sears not coming out to repair a simple problem.

I have a whirlpool gas dryer. My dryer all of a sudden would not heat up. I diagnosed the problem and discovered that it would light (using the peep hole in the front) when the dryer was cold, but once warm, the flame would go out. I bought a cheap multimeter and tested all the themostats on the back of the unit after removing the back panel. All the thermomstats checked out except the cycling thermostat which should no signal through one of the connections (purple wires). I ordered a new thermo and replaced the old one but it didn't fix the problem. Seems that there isn't a current between the purple connections.... Since the flame did light when the unit was cold I figured it wasn't the ignitor so it was either the flame sensor or the coils. I took the top and front panels off (alot easier than I thought; see videos) and checked the flame sensor with my multimeter. It was fine. Only thing left was the coils, so I ordered a set. IF YOU NEED COILS, SAVE YOURSELF MONEY AND ORDER THE PAIR. YOU GET BOTH COILS FOR < HALF THE PRICE IF ORDERING INDIVIDUALLY. Replacing the coils was rather easy. You will need to prop up the drum with something to keep it from impeding your screwdriver. A stubby philips really helped here. Also, since the gas valves are closed when there is no power, there is no need to disconnect the gas line and fuss about a gas leak (This really saved time). Once the two screws for the coil plate were out of the way, the coils simply slide off the valves and unplug easily. NOTE: Make sure you line up the one new coil with plate when you put it back together. It has a little tab that fits into the plate. All-in-all it took about 30-60 minutes to do. If I were to do it again it would probably take 15 minutes. Pretty easy job for a do-it-yourselfer with only basic tools.

Took off front bottom panel reached in removed part that was very dusty. Put in new part. Cleaned out lint inside dryer. Works like a charm.

open the back pannel and use multimeter to check the wirings and everything checks ok. open the bottom front panel of the dryer and turn the dryer on. the igniter works and the flame came out for seconds and dies off. the igniter keep coming on, but it seems that the gas was not coming out. i checked the gas line valve and it was open. i had a good idea it wasn't the wiring or the gas line, it must be the coil-valve,(safety coil), that letting the gas flow. i order the parts, it came sooner, which is good, and it took me less than 10 minutes to install, and i only use a philip screw driver. i thank you for sending me the right part in short period of time.

This turned out to be easier than I thought. I opened the access door on the front of the dryer after unplugging the dryer and turning off the gas. I reached in just inside the door with a short-handled phillips head screwdriver and removed the two screws holding the two coils in place. The screws were pretty tight and a bit difficult to get loose but after serveral attempts they finally broke loose. Once I removed the plate that covered the two coils they just slipped right off, much easier than I thought. I removed the electrical connections then attached the wires to the new coils and slipped them back on their respective pins. I reattached the "cover", then plugged the dryer back in and turned the gas on and started it up. The flame fired right up, much stronger than before I replaced the coils and of course the flame stayed on. Problem solved. Repair was really pretty simple with the diagnosis being the biggest problem.

open dyer door replace lint filter perfect fit, good price, fast delvery. thank you

Initially thought it was the thermal fuse since that has already been replaced twice before for the same type of problem. After replacing the fuse the same issue remained, so I did a little hunting on the internet and found some matrixes to help diagnose the issue. After a couple of minutes, I discovered it was the ignitor. I immediately ordered the part and received it in about 5 business days. Even though that took longer than previous orders (usually < 3 days), I was still happy to get the part at a MUCH cheaper price than available locally. Installation took about 5 minutes with only a 5/16" nut driver and we were back in business. Kind of glad it broke because the dryer needed a good de-linting and cleaning anyway. : )

Checked heating element and it glowed so I replaced the ceramic gas valve regulators. 4 screws to take front off the dryer and 2 screws to replace part. Couldn't have been easier but I wouldn't have been able to do it without watching the video first.

The hinge is held on with screws. You just need to separate the front and rear sides of the door skin to get at the screws that hold the hinge onto the door frame. The screws are Phillips-head and are located on the inner-facing door. Once you have access unscrewing the hinge from the door is simple, and then you can unscrew it from the dryer's frame. Or, you could unscrew it from the frame first and then disassemble the door on a workbench, etc. Once the new hinge was installed the slop in the mechanism went away and there were no more false "door open" events. You can test for this by pushing on the door on the hinge side while it's closed- I was able to get the drum light to come on, indicating that there was sufficient play in the hinge to falsely trip the door-open switch. After replacing the hinge the issue went away.