WC504 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All I had to do was take apart the door by removing a few screws. Then ripped the old gasket off. I then lined all the tabs up to make sure it was going to fit and then started pulling them through with needle nose pliers. When the door was reassembled I checked the plastic piece where the gasket ends in the tub and found some loose screws that needed to be tightened. After that I ran a few cycles and it does not leak any more.

I would recommend getting the entire unit. I could have replaced the electrical component only, but the other parts were deteriorating.

I removed the 4 screws in the lower side of the door and removed the front.

I lossened the 6 screws holding the detergent cup. This was done with a small hex wrench.

I replaced the dispenser and connected the wires back onto the electrical sensor.

I put the front back on the door and tested the repair. Worked fine

I will be replacing the door gasket next. I found evidence of leakage when I removed the front of the door to replace the detergent cup.

Easy to change. Just pull firmly on old gasket, clean surface with soapy water. Align tabs on new gasket, push into place a tap firmly with handle of a screwdriver and taps pop into place. Was done in about 40 minutes.

The repair was fairly simple. The hardest part was figuring out if this was the part I needed or not. After studying the inerds of the dishwasher door and the detergent cup mechanism, it seemed like this part would do the trick.

Here's how the mechanism works . . . the plastic stopper at the end of the bi-metallic strip latches the detergent cup in place. If these strips are bent away from the spring mechanism / plastic cam enough, the stopper will not latch on the cam (as was the case with mine). So, I needed to replace the bi-metallic strip. This part comes along with a new cam and spring.

The actual replacement of the parts is simple. The parts come with pretty good installation instructions.

Good luck . . .

Turned off the circuit breaker. Removed the two lower panels below the door. Removed the two racks from inside the tub. Removed the lower rinse arm, then unscrewed and removed in stages as much of the washer components from the inside bottom of the tub. Last item was the unit that screws into the base of the tub, was loose but would not come out, then I realized I needed to disconnect the water lines from underneath the tub. Then I was able to lift the pump/motor assembly out from inside the tub. Disassembled that until I reached the wash impeller, and saw that the shaft was no longer rectangular, but rounded out and spinning freely which was why the water was not being pumped out. Also found a small flip top from a can, no idea how that got down there, but that was what was making the loud scraping noise as the was impeller tried to spin. Reassembled everything and unit now works fine (and much quieter!) Never had to take the dishwasher out from under the cabinet and if I had to do this again it would only take 30 - 40 minutes - live and learn!

I unscrewed the parts of the washing tower, then removed the housing and filters above the impeller. Lastly I removed and replaced the impeller and "o" ring. This repair went fine. Unfortunately another part (blower) let go and I decided not invest any more time or money into this machine since it was so old.

Pull old gasket off (30 seconds), take panel screws out of front panel and control panel, carefully lower control panel push tabs thru holes from inside door, once all tabs in, push door closed and take pliers and pull tabs until they lock into place, put panel back together. not that difficult, my wife and I had it back in working order in approx 30min.

The SE1000 (washer/dryer combo) dryer stop working and I checked the error code: 8E, which indicated a motor/relay circuit problem. I replaced the relay but I still have the problem. I'll have to check the motor but I think it's not available anymore. The belt is OK. The unit is 25 years old so it doesn't owe me anything.
The washer still works.

Put spring in plastic bushing, snapped into door arm and hooked opposite end of spring in first hole. Repeated process on opposite side of door. Did the above without moving the dishwasher from installed position.

I used the parts blowup diagram on PartSelect.com and dissasembled the bottom wash assembly. Carefully examining how the washer arm rotated, I determined that the spray arm support nut had broken. The extended top of it has broken off. This nut, when tightened, allows the spray arm to rotate freely. In trying to diagnose the problem, I had even removed the motor assembly at the very bottom. When I reassembled it, I apparently did not seat the gasket well and did not tighten the bolts well, so when I tested the washer, water leaked out the bottom. So, I had to dissasemble it all again and properly torque the bolts. So, I really created another problem during the diagnosis.

On my maytag portable dishwasher I had to remove three side screws on right lower panel,and two lower screws to free up panel. I had to pry the panel away from the body to get axes to the springs. Replaced springs as instructed reinstalled all hardware, finished.

After nearly 20 years of use (and no service) my Maytag dishwasher stopped getting dishes clean. I called Maytag and they made me an appointment with a nearby service center. The Maytag person also suggested I do a run with an open container in the dishwasher filled with a couple of cups of white vinegar – since that dissolves the white scale buildup from hard water. That helped a lot. Yay Maytag!

I had 5 days to wait for service, so I started Googling. I found very negative reviews of my local service center, but I also learned that I could buy a replacement detergent dispenser online and I found excellent simple instructions for installing it. It arrived in two days and I installed it. The hardest part was removing the front panel of the dishwasher to get access and supporting it while taking out the last couple of screws – then holding it in place afterwards while putting the screws back in. I recommend having a second pair of hands!

I also realized that the two rotating spray arms (at the bottom and at the top) weren’t rotating! They’re easy to remove (just unscrew the center component), and I found that many of the holes were clogged – including all the ones pointing sideways that make them spin. I had to force water inwards through the holes to dislodge the debris, then I filled the arms with water through the center hole and sloshed it around to clear things out. That worked. I put it back together – and the dishwasher is now as good as new!

For good measure I took the cover off the strainer in the bottom to clean it, but surprisingly the strainer was almost completely clean.

I cancelled the service appointment, of course. I’m sure I saved a lot of $$$.

I had read that recently mandated reformulation of dishwasher detergent with lower phosphate content makes it less effective – but I’m not seeing that: a little simple maintenance and my dishes are 100% squeaky clean again!

I opened the door and pulled the old gasket out using a flathead screwdriver to pry up the difficult to remove areas. I cleaned the area with a damp cloth and place the new gasket in the slots. The entire process including the cleaning took no more than 10 minutes. It was so easy. By the way, I had the part in my hands 2 days after ordering it. I am very impressed with the service.

had to pull the unit out abour 6" and simly replaced the springs - it was easy

Removed the 6 screws holding the pump and motor assy. Disconnected the two hoses and wiring connector. Removed the motor and pump, removed the pump parts to get down to the impeller. Removed the old impeller (one screw) and installed the new impeller. Put every thing back together and it worked fine. Every one is happy!