WC504 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed four screws that hold front panel. Disconnected two wires, removed six screws, cleaned of old gasket material. Installed new gasket and soap dispenser with six screws. replaced two wires. replace front panel.

found the parts ordered them an poof dishwasher us as good as new

Seemed like I was getting more food stuck on my dishes than cleaned off. Because I've had this problem before, I already knew how to remove the lower spray arm and take off the large white housing beneath the spray arm with a special nut driver (shaped like a star) to get at the parts inside. The white plastic filter that circles the lower sprayer center was totally clogged and bent out of shape and was preventing the spray arm from turning. The microfilters built into the large white housing part that I removed using the special driver were also clogged from years of use. I cleaned the microfilters by agitation in water with lots of vinegar, poked the calcium deposits out of the holes that were clogged in the lower spray arm, and put the whole thing back together with the new plastic filter I bought from this site. Works like new again.

My daughter and son removed the old gasket and installed the new one. It went well.

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

I ordered two springs (PartSelect Number PS2202520), one for each side of my 30 year old Maytag WU704. This is the shorter "assist spring" that sits right behind the slightly longer green-ish spring, of which there are also one on each side. Now, with 2 springs on each side, the door swings like a new unit. I did NOT have to pull the dishwasher out of the cabinet at all. All I had to do was remove the base plate and there are gaps under the dishwasher frame that you can fish the spring with plastic grommet through, to insert the grommet into the appropriate hole on the door lever arm. Then with a pair of long needle-nose pliers I was able to reach from under the outside of the unit to grab the hanging spring hook and pull it down to insert it into the appropriate hole in the frame. I had a series, or line, of holes to choose from for this. I found that the hole closest to where the green-ish spring attaches made the door tighter and hold faster, the hole furthest made the door feel looser. You can do with one spring but I figure two would probably assist each other in lifting and last longer. Easy fix you can do! It would be an even easier fix if you need to replace the two other green-ish springs (PartSelect Number PS2097003), because they are right at the front of the unit. Open the bottom of the unit and check to see which is broken, so you are sure to order the correct spring(s) because they are different!

Remove lower cover, 4 Phillips screws. Remove bracket with float switch, two hex head screws in the rear. After removal pull switch wires, two in plastic housings. Remove float switch, one small Phillips head screw. Remove float switch lever, one Phillips head screw. Clean the bracket and lever. Replace the lever and lube with silicone. Replace the float switch, (new one) and replace wires. Reinstall install bracket with original hex head screws. Replace lower cover. Done.

Very simple. Remove bottom panels. Remove one screw holding old switch in place. Move wire connections from old switch to new one. Cleaned and lubed the switch actuator. Mounted new switch. Checked that float and actuator worked freely. Left bottom panels off till I ran a load - just to be sure all was OK. Remount bottom panels...Done! P.S. Don't forget to turn power off to dishwasher any time you work on it!!

Followed instructions, those were OK.
Dishwasher front still leaking

Had service man: stated I would need new motor/pump at $400 complete. I didn't like the interior of new dishwashers. Nothing to lose, so I verified that the motor was working; reviewed short PartSelect video. Ref: very helpful PartSelect assembly diagrams with parts list. THANKS PS! Removed two dish racks (top rack: extend fully and flip the roller-keeper clips. Pull rollers and rack-pins apart) Then I started taking the pump apart all the way down to the pump base (fits into tub with seal - did not replace that seal). Very intuitive - some parts are tight and must be encouraged to come apart; take care of seals and o-rings; take notes of sequence if necessary. Look for parts requiring replacement. Unscrew Spray Tower Lower Extension Nozzle and lift off Spray Arm and two lower spray arm seals - check seals for wear. Unscrew pencil-like Spray Arm Support Nut. Cause: I found a totally-clogged Pump Housing Filter, a bit of steel wool about the size of my thumb (same size as water supply opening in bottom), and small piece of broken glass. Cleaned all parts coated with lime; new Pump Housing Filter (could not clean adequately). Cleaned the screens underside of filter support (difficult) with brush and wire. Replaced o-rings for Wash Impeller and Drain Impeller as a matter of principle. Only alignment requirement is with bottom water supplly hole. Everything works like new now! Recommendation: clean Pump Housing Filter annually.

Shut off the hot water supply (pretty sharp eh?). Disconnected the hose from the hw supply and the at the connection to the washing machine. These had not been touched in at least 15 years and were somewhat tough to loosen but finally came ..... accessibility was a problem for the connection to the water supply as it was in a recessed wall box. Fortunately, we had some washers for the hose connections so the install was a snap. Hardest part of the whole job was moving the washing machine out from between the drier and the wash tub .... tight fit. Thanks for the quick service and to FED EX for their delivery. The delivery fellow was a real gentleman.

Called you on Saturday excellent operator placed order even with my card 1st refusing to do transaction. Received pump seal Monday (yes) and All the parts 3 days. Sears (only)the rubber seal! Used one nut driver, labor 1 hr. Thanks to everyone and the phone operator.. My wife is very pleased @ 3 days even over weekend delivery (and) price was less than sears. We shall shop your website again

Removed lower spray arm and installed new seal under spray arm.Did not fix problem,I am guessing a low spray pressure.Everything checks out O.K.Anyone have some suggestions.How does the rinse aid get out of the holding tankr?

Removed front panel by removing four screws. Used 5/16 nut driver to remove six screws holding dispenser and disconnected two wires. Inserted new dispenser and reattached cover. Longest time taken was to realign cover properly. Best approach seemed to install with door as near vertical as possible and to start screws by hand. ONLY FOUR screws hold the panel in place. Very easy repair for anyone. part arrived sooner than expected.

First I changed the motor relay. The dryer still didn't work. Then I checked the display board by pressing washer on/off and dryer on/off at the same time. Then I pressed the dry control on/off. This showed me that the display board was okay. Then I changed the control board. The dryer worked fine after that.