Models > VVSR1040V3WW > Instructions

VVSR1040V3WW Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for VVSR1040V3WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the VVSR1040V3WW
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Washing machine stopped during rinse cycle - was on and would fill but wouldn't agitate. Found that the wires on lid switch had been severed by agitation over the years.

  • Customer: Lisa from DuPont WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 30 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
I turned off the water and inplugged the washer. Then removed the Torx screws off the back control panel. Inside there was a schema of the machine with notes on how to remove the front panel. If you already know how to do that - this step would be unnecessary. Next I took a putty knife and placed where shown (lined up with lid openings) to release the front panel - one clip on each side of the top of front panel and then removed the panel completely. I used a thin screwdriver to help remove the old lid switch as the locking tab is quite hard to press in otherwise. I cleaned up and stripped the old wires to prepare for splice. I fed the new wires through lid switch hole and snapped it into place. I stripped the shield back on the new lid switch to prepare for splice. I threaded shrink wrap wire cover over one side of each wire and then put that end in a splice wire connector and crimped it down with the pliers. I placed the other end of like colored wire in the other end of the splice connector and crimped it down. Repeated for other wire. Then slid the shrink tubing over the splice and used the hair dryer to shrink the tubing over the new splice. Then used the electrical tape to tape the two spliced wires together and to identify it as a repaired section. Returned front panel and paperwork to control panel and Voila! had a working washing machine.

Pump and Motor Assembly began leaking and then seized.

  • Customer: Michael from Alexandria IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 25 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the front panel by prying it forward with a Screw driver away from the side panels at the top (wrap a shop rag around the Screw driver to keep from scratching the paint). Once you have the panel pried loose at the top ... lean it forward until you can lift it off the tab type hooks at the bottom.
I next unplugged the wires from the motor. The orginal motor had three wires ... two on top and one on the left side. The one on the side is a ground wire for the open frame motor. The replacement motor is sealed and does not require this wire. Just leave it unplugged when the new one is installed.
Next I removed the inlet hose that attaches to the back of the pump. Remove it by loosening the hose clamp and removing it from the bottom of the tub, leaving it attached to the back of the pump. It is much easier to remove and transfer to the new pump once it is out rather than fight with the spring type clamp on the back of the pump in the close quarters inside the machine.
Next I removed the outlet hose from the top of the pump. Squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up and off the pump.
Now I just used a Socket to remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the inside front of the machine and removed the assembly.
I now removed the inlet hose from the back of the old pump. Just squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up the hose and off the pump. Transfer the hose to the back of the new pump reusing the same clamp.
I now bolted the assembly back into the machine, reattached the outlet hose to the pump, and then reattached inlet hose to the bottom of the tub. All that was left to do was plug in the two wires to the top front of the pump motor (as I mentioned earlier, leave the side wire from the old pump unplugged as it is not needed on the new one). I then ran the machine for a few moments with the front off to check for any leaks and then put the front panel back on.
The whole replacement cost about $50 and took barely 15 min. from start to finish. The machine now works perfectly.

agitator was no turning

  • Customer: Jody from Deefield IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 24 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Repaired Agitator - required to pull from the bottom pulling on one side a little more then the other. Once you got loose it comes right off. Under neith there is a bolt that holds on agitator coupler. remove the bolt with wrench or socket wrench and then the agaitator coupler. Replace with new agitator coupler ,make sure grooves are aligned when putting on the rotor. Tap the top of the agitator coupler lightly until it is completely seated. Put the bolt on with wrench or socket wrench. Put the agitator back on over the agitator coupler and agin make sure grooves are alighned and push down until it feels it is seated. When done, give it a light pull to make sure it is secure and then you are done.

stripped agitator, would not move during wash cycle

  • Customer: John from Savannah GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 23 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
drilled off top plate of agitator to gain access ot bolt, removed bolt, removed agitator, replaced coupler and new bolt, snapped in place new agitator.

Bearing above brake plate on transmission unit failed, brske material broken up

  • Customer: Michael from Allentown PA
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the agitator. The shoulder screw on top of the air bell was almost disintegrated, but after soaking with penetrating oil and a large channel lock pliers I removed the shoulder screw. Next, the air bell required a bearing puller to remove it from the agitator shaft (with force application to the agitator shaft from above). After two days of soaking with penetrating oil, heating with a hot air gun, and countless attempts with a pipe wrench and sledge hammer the 1 11/16 nut was not moving. I drilled down along the flats of the shaft and dug out as much corrosion as I could and filled the cavities with penetrating oil. Next, I drilled down at an angle (so as not to gouge the centering taper of the spinner hub) into the nut in order to relieve some stress - no success. I ended up using a chissel ( blade and flat round ) to break pieces of the nut away which was quite brittle. After removing about 1/8 of the nut's top and tapered portion, it began to turn out with a pipe wrench. Next, the spinner would not lift out off the shaft, so I had to remove the entire tub and transmission assembly (but with the spinner basket attached) as instructed by the paper stored within the control panel. I removed the tub support bracket and motor assembly and the pulley off the transmission (pieces of the brake pad fell out). Using a 2X6 piece of lumber, I fabricated 2 semi circular pieces to fit within the 20 inch diameter of the spinner basket and secured their position with another piece of wood. I attached eye hooks to the wood and with rope,hung the entire assembly over an I beam with the transmission in the 5 gallon bucket and the tub suspended only about an inch above the bucket. I hammered on the agitator shaft until the tub and transmission fell the inch as it separated from the spinner basket. After this, it was just cleaning the areas receiving new parts. I did use a sealant around the new tub seal edges and bottom when assembling. Other than having to tap 1/4- 20 threads in the new transmission brake flange (new part had no threads in the holes) the reassembly went fine. I did have to retighten the new 1 11/16 nut after the first use because the new brake pad really stopped the basket from spinning, but the momentom loosened the nut after 3 loads of wash.

washer didn't spin & water would not pump out

  • Customer: Ken from West Monroe NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench set
  • 20 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
removed hoses and clamps. removed 2 bolts on pump. put it back together. done 15 min.

Tub would not spin during spin cycle.

  • Customer: William from Sherman TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Removed washer to garage (after water was pumped out by the washing machines pump). Tipped it over to access bottom of machine and removed about 8-10 nut machine screws. Slipped new clutch on and used old retaining clip (new one was too difficult to get on). Loosened motor mounts on the drive motor and slipped on belt. Positioned the motor to put a good amount of tension on the belt and tightened motor mounts in a star pattern. Works great, even with heavy loads (like jeans). Easy easy.

Loud noises when spinning and no spin

  • Customer: James from Spring TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 21 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the instructions provided by GE that were stored in the control section of the washer. Removing the hub nut was a huge pain. It took Liquid wrench, hammer, pipe wrench and patience to remove it. Other than that it was fairly easy. I didn't like the way the tub seal fit so I used some silicon gasket making material to help make sure the seal sealed good against the tub.

Valve was dripping cold water when washing machine was not running.

  • Customer: Jerry from Rogers TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Took 4 screws off of face plate, exposed valve, unplugged power supply, removed wire harnesses to hot cold valves, removed hot and cold water hoses from back of washing machine, removed two screws holding valve body to washer,put new valve in and reversed procedure. ta da!!!!!!!!!!

Teeth on Timer Knob broke off

  • Customer: Clifford from Sun Valley NV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Removed timer knob clip and installed new dial and timer knob

Water leakage from the bottom of the tub through the shaft seal

  • Customer: Dave from Willcox AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Thanks to comments already summited to Partselect I was prepareed for the worst. Once I figured out that you remove the agitator assembly with a swift jerk I was able to access the lower portion of the tub. As others have found out the aluminum nut holding the inner tub can not be removed without a hammer and chisel. Once you get past that things go well. What is left is cleaning the components and re-assembling.

No Spin or Agitate

  • Customer: David from Tacoma WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Finding the disassembly instructions in the control panel was very useful. After disassembly and inspection obviously the transmission had lost oil and deteriorate the belt and actually threw it off. Finding your web site was very helpful. The exploded views parts catalog were great! We had it rush shipped. It was great to speak with a representative on a sunday was excellent. The rep was Knowledgeable and we concurred on which part were needed. Tracking number was correct via e-mail but only rec'd tracking number for one of the two packages which was stressful at the fedex office at pick-up. All Items were rec'd on time assembly was straight forward. The basin retainer nut came loose after 5 loads and made a terrible noise. I applied blue loctite to nut and reinstalled. Seems to be working correctly. Bought an extended warranty which added 4 yrs. Washer failed 2 months after warr. expired. Figures!! Great experience with partselect Thank You.

Hub under agitator disentegrated

  • Customer: MARK from RAMSEY NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I used the other 4 posting as a guideline but found that what wasn't mentioned here was that the disassembly/re-assembly instructions are actually located inside the washing machine behind the control panel (wish I knew that before I started doing it on my own).

After removing the control knobs (temperature, cycle, etc.), unscrew the four screws and lift the control panel off. Underneath the panel, there was a folded up wiring diagram that includes assembly instructions on the back.

Like others here, everything went smooth until I tried to get the Hub Nut (PS271505) off. No matter how hard I tried turning or hitting it (or the wrenches), it wouldn't move at all. I followed the other people's advise here and ended up taking a hammer and small chisel to the side of the nut. It's an aluminum nut so it cracked pretty easily and was easy to remove after that. Take my advise and just break the nut off if you are having any sort of difficulties getting it to turn. It's worth the extra $11 to just buy a new one!

The pully attached to the bottom of the Clutch (all one piece) broke apart.

  • Customer: Jeff from North Liberty IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I loosened the 4 screws that hold the motor and clutch in place. Removed the motor and clutch and turned upside down. Removed the retaining clip. Pulled the old clutch off (does not come off very easy). Stuck the new clutch on and replaced the retaining clip. Slapped it back into the machine.

Washer was leaking where the tranmission entered the tub

  • Customer: Kevin from Dillon CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Based on other research, the location of the leak indicated that the main tub seal needed to be replaced. I took the washer apart before ordering new parts in case I broke other parts in the process and to be sure I could. I ended up having to cut off the Agitator Coupling and really marred up the hub nut. Those were the hardest 2 pieces to remove since they had corroded badly after many years of use. I had to use a pipe wrench and a hammer to remove the hub nut and a hack saw to get the agitator coupling off (air bell).
$68.00 and 2 hours later, the washer no longer leaks.
All Instructions for the VVSR1040V3WW
16-30 of 438