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Grease filter clogged and in need of replacement
EXTREMELY simple - drop in. AND- the part cost less than half the price quoted by appliance vendor...2 years earlier !!! This site is a marvelous resource for parts one can install with minimal skill.
One 25 yr-old burner was beginning to leak gas because of corrossion. Decided to replace all 4 burners.
Remove grates and pan. unscrew each burner from the metal cross mount bar, keeping in mind, the position of the cross mount bar.(Mine was not reversible.) Reverse the procedure with the new burners. Adjust the air opening to eliminate any yellow flame. The air opening is located immediately adjacent to where the burner pipe goes into the cooktop. (Near the front of the cooktop in my case.)
Biggest problem was making sure the correct parts were ordered.
I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294
Removing the oven door and several layers of metal to get to the seal, is a fairly easy process. Our door had three different fasteners, torx head screws to remove the door, a very small flat head screwdriver to remove the chrome door trim screws, and a nut driver to remove the inner panels and glass. The replacement seal is over-large and must be trimmed. Care should be taken when fitting the integrated wire. Bending at the corners only, makes assembly much easier. Reassembly is the reverse of diassembly. Care must be taken that the seal wire hasn't popped out of it's seat when the cover is installed. This is the most time-consuming and frustrating part of the repair. Patience is paramount to get a good fit. Because I had made an odd bend in it, about one inch of wire was not properly seated after the cover was seated and tightened down. I was able to gently squeeze it into the seat with a flat tip screwdriver without removing any screws. The final problem area is reinstalling the door. Although two people would be helpful to accomplish this Task, I was able to accomplish it with the aid of a three foot piece of 2x4. By wedging the piece of lumber behind both hinges, they were held open under tension to allow slipping the door on. Once partially installed, the 2x4 can be removed and the door seated. Hope this helps.
Removed front wooden kick panel(2 cross recessed screws). Removed 2 bolts holding blower to floor. Loosened 2 vent clamp screws on vent from stove(2 clamps). Pulled vent off of blower housing. Removed blower from under stove. Using a nut driver, removed 4 nuts from blower and removed the motor cover & motor from the blower housing, removed 3 screws from motor cover and removed the motor cover from the motor. Ordered new motor. After new motor was rcvd (about 3 days plus wk end) I removed the squirel cage from the motor shaft using a metric allen wrench. Then removed the mounting clamp from the old motor by loosening 1 screw. Placed the motor clamp and the squirel cage on the new motor, then placed the motor cover on the motor. Placed blower mtg bkt and motor on blower housing w/ the 4 nuts removed earlier. Placed blower motor assy under stove being careful not to damage the exaust vent behind the blower motor as I carefully put the blower motor into the exhaust vent. Placed vent from stove on stove and blower housing and secured w/the 2 vent clamps removed earlier. Attached the blower motor base to the floor w/ 2 bolts. Wala........complete
Removed 2 screws to get to old unit, unplug electric wire and pluged in new switch. No problems, correct parts. Will look for other needed parts in the future. Thanks
The hardest part was removing the old switch. It had locking washers that were very hard to remove. After that it was a breeze. Be sure to turn off the electricity to the oven.
I'm sure I saved a ton of money and wife was ecstatic, it had been broken for a year or more.
The two mounting clips supplied with the switch would not fit onto the two studs in the die casted plate (too small) . In removing one of the old clips, the stud broke off. Thus I had to break off the other stud and drill out the area to allow two screws to be inserted to mount the switch securely.
Old burners were worn out and wouldn't light with the ignitor
Removed two screws and replaced burners and placed the unit back into position and the burners worked perfectly. Very easy. I think anyone could do this task.
