Models > SF368LEPS0 > Instructions

SF368LEPS0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for SF368LEPS0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the SF368LEPS0
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oven wouldn't heat

  • Customer: Ignatius from Hazelwood MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 54 of 56 people found this instruction helpful
My oven was misdiagnosed from an appliance repair company. They said my ignitors and spark module needed to be replaced. I did this myself and still nothing. The problem happened to be a defective gas valve.

First I unplugged the stove and shut off the gas supply. After I disconnected the flex hose and the 2 gas connections behind the stove, I removed the 4 screws that held the valve to the back of the stove.

I went to the front of the appliance and pulled out the bottom drawer. This exposed the valve from the other side. I disconnected the electrical connections (3 colored wires) to the valve and removed it. I re-attached the new valve, putting everything back in reverse order. I made sure the 3 wires were reconnected correctly by labeling each one before disconnecting them. I made certain that my gas connections were sealed by using teflon tape and/or pipe sealant from the hardware store. I turned the shutoff valve back to the on position and checked for leaks. If I smelled gas I snugged it down a bit more until no gas smell was detected.

There was nothing wrong with the ignitors or the spark module. The stove failed to pre-heat and the "tick-tick" I used to hear when the stove was first turned on was nonexistent. What the so-called experts said would be hundreds of dollars to fix unded up being a $90 part.

Bake/broil would not work

  • Customer: Greg from North Baltimore OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 37 of 57 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced igniter and also DSI/direct spark igniter did not fix problem. Called out repairman turned out to be bad gas valve. Replaced that part , now stove works fine.

temperature not accurate after 3 1/2 years of happy usage

  • Customer: Ruth from Oregon IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 43 of 92 people found this instruction helpful
Opened up the back of the stove. Unpluged the sensor. Replaced the sensor. Replace the back of the stove.

The sensor that has been replaced is not what is expected. After reading all of the instructions for adjusting the temperatures, the only temp that stays steady is when we first turn on the oven to 350 degrees. That stays steady but when I turn it to 400 it slowly goes up to 425 degrees.

spark igniter was weak and not lighting the flame.

  • Customer: Daniel from Needham MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Open top oven door and remove the 2 front screws which hold the burners and controls to the frame. DO NOT lift the burners more than an inch or so to look inside. You WILL bend the gas lines in the back if you do. Pull out stove from the wall, shut off gas supply and disconnect hose if needed to have room to work. Remove top back panel and remove the 3 wires connecting the top burner assembly and also remove the 2 gas lines. Now you will be able to remove the burner assembly safely. Flip it over and try to unscrew the screw holding the igniter. When you fail, drill it out and get a small metal screw to replace it. The metal is soft and the screw is hard, so drill carefully. The rest is easy, put in the new igniter and screw. and put it back together.

Socket Light had a bad thread

  • Customer: Edmund from Emporium PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

drawer broke and annoying my wife

  • Customer: John from Jamestown OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
screwed in the new glide by taking out old broken one and screwing in new one. wife happy now.

Ignitor on main burner would not create a spark

  • Customer: Michael from Bloomington IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Having no manual nor finding any instructions online, I spent a while trying to figure out how to safely get to the ignitor mounting screw under the range top. I popped the snap clips on either side of the stove to loosen the top and pulled the top up a few inches to see why it was being difficult to raise. It turns out that the gas piping was solidly attached from the controls to the burners and I was slightly bending the tubes as the top was raised. The tubes have angles and curves to "accept" the bending pressure I was applying, so it looked like I was doing the right thing. In case I was not doing the right thing, however, I raised the top only enough to get access to the ignitor base and mounting screw. Then the fun began as the screw would not loosen. After several attempts using liquid wrench, tapping on it, etc., the screw head finally just broke off. Uh-ohhhh. Not to worry, however, as there was an empty mounting hole right next to the old one that appeared to be able to work. The mounting screw for the new ignitor was backordered, so I tried a couple dozen different screws I had in my toolkit and finally found one that would fit width-wise, but I had to nip off some of the length to get it to seat properly. The replacement ignitor also had a different width blade connector than the original so I had to grind away some of its width to reattach it to the lead wire. If I had a different sized blade receiver, I would have instead replaced the receiver on the end of the lead wire. It took about 90 minutes in all.

Broken door handle

  • Customer: Ed from North Palm Beach FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Part came super fast, remove and replace two screws - nothing to it

stove will not start no spark or gas

  • Customer: HERBERT from ISELIN NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 20 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
part did not fix the problem, may be gas regulater ,well if you are changing this part,not to bad .remove the knobs bottom screws and two side screws front cover flips up and off ,the ignition control is in front of you right side ,remove the one screw that is looking at and everything slides out .i turned off the gas and elec and removed the gas line and carefully laid the stove on it back.made it easier ,good luck

Oven and Broiler Wouldn't Light

  • Customer: Steven from Las Vegas NV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
#1) Pulled the range away from the wall and unplugged the electrical cord
#2) Turned the gas valve off and pulled the range away from the wall as far as the gas line allowed.
#3) Disconnected the gas line at the range and pulled the range out to access the regulator at the bottom and pulled out the bottom shelf to access the front of the regulator.
#4) I took photos of the regulator front and back for future reference.
#5) Unhooked the feeder gas lines to the oven and cooktop in the rear.
#6) Unhooked the three electrical wires attached to the regulator front and removed the set screw at the air/gas shield feeding the oven distributor and slid the shield down to the feeder line seat.
#7) Removed the four set screws holding the regulator to the back frame.
#8) Installed the new regulator with the four set screws in the back. Applied thread dope to the two gas feeder lines and installed the gas lines to the new regulator.
#9) Referenced the photos taken earlier for proper electrical colored wires to the regulator terminal block and reset the air/gas shield in the prior location and tightened the set screw.
#10) Applied thread dope to the main gas line and installed it in the supply side of the regulator. Turned on the gas and sprayed soapy water on the threads (all) to check for leaks.
#11) While the range was still away from the wall, plugged in the electrical cord, set the time, turned on the oven and broiler to checl operation.
#12) Cleaned up the range back and floor and moved it back into place. Re-leveled the range and received accolades from my Wife for a job well done. (perhaps now she will actually cook on it)

Scratches in Surface

  • Customer: Michelle from Richardson TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

oven would light and a few seconds later go out. broiler and cooktop still worked.

  • Customer: James from Millbury OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 24 of 55 people found this instruction helpful
A very easy repair, just wished it would have worked. The diagnostic flow chart first recommended changing the igniter. The direct spark ignition board (DSI) checked out OK with a multi meter but now the flow chart recommends I change it. Wish somebody at Sears or Whirlpool ( they made the stove for Kenmore ) knew how to diagnose their own machines.

Replace outer over glass/SS door

  • Customer: Mike from Mission TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
The web site was easy to navagate and locate the correct part. The part was in stock and shipped the next day and was delivered in 3 or 4 days. All total the replanement was less than a week. The replacement was easy except it took a second person to hold the glass in place while i threaded the hold down screws fron underneath. I could not hold the glass and thread the small screws with just my two hands, plus having to thread the screws from the bottom was more difficult, but all in all it was simple and now we have a new unbroken glass front oven door.

The broiler, and oven both went out simultaneously. Neither would light, (not even a click) nor would gas flow to them when turned on. The warm up timer just kept ticking as though nothing was wrong.

  • Customer: Grant from Redmond OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
According to the manual tucked behind the oven, if one solenoid on the gas safety valve/regulator doesn't work, neither will work. It indicated that from the center (common) pin to each of the others, it should read 216 ohms. Mine read 200 to one side, none to the other. I ordered a replacement, had a buddy tip the oven up for easy access while I went at it with a screw driver and some line wrenches. Swapped it out and she works like a dream now.

Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb

  • Customer: Lewis from Chapin SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.
All Instructions for the SF368LEPS0
1-15 of 133