SCE30600BC Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Piece of cake. First, turn off the power to the stove. Then, I removed four hex head screws on the bottom (above the oven door) and four phillips screws underneath the burner knobs (knobs pull right off). The entire assembly then came loose and I laid it facedown on the stove top. The clock control was easily accessible. I unplugged two electrical connections and a ribbon which "unplugs" easily by squeezing the ends and pulling up on the ends. Only two hex head screws hold the clock assembly and I removed them.

Then, it was only a matter of reversing everything I had done. The new clock light is brilliant.

Very easy to locate parts on your web site. I also ordered new burners and a new control pad for the front. I think I will get 10 more years out of this stove. It's like new. I will keep this web site in my favorites list. Thanks Moe

Finding part needed and quick shipping were great. Web site so helpful. Initial attempt to remove old part was troublesome because I took out wrong screws thinking I had to remove parts beneath burner. Once I figured it out, it was so easy.
1. Turn off power.
2. Remove 4 screws BELOW control panel (open oven door to see them)
3. Pull off 7 front knobs.
4. Lift out loosened panel.
5. Take out the two screws holding control switch to front panel. Note orientaion of switch.
6. Replace wire by wire to new switch.
7. Put it all back together. Make sure switch is put in same direction.
8. Turn power on.

Sunday, four days before Thanksgiving, our oven would not bake properly. A quick check indicated the top element was not working. What to do? Where to get a part in time to fix for Thanksgiving dinner? The answer was easy - PartSelect. I had the part in my hands on Tuesday AM. Oven was fixed in 15 minutes and my wife was baking pies within an hour. All worked well and yes, we had a wonderful trukey dinner. Great service !

The parts came with no instructions, we started to take off , the front panel , finally took off the 4 screws under the panel, then the two small ends caps on either side. the only problem we had after being carefull to study the part as we took it off , was the ribbon strip, that stayed connected to the stove. after we tried to put all back together, the exhaust fan kept coming on. There are two small
holes that need to be aligned in the replacement part. also to get the strip out and back in you need to press and pull up on the small black notches on either of the strip.

Removed old part with a pair of pliers and plugged the new part into place.

Very simple and the self cleaning feature works again.

I removed the four 1/4" hex screws from the bottom of the control panel. The panel pulled out after a slight downward pull. The panel has two slots that fit over tabs on the range frame, holding the panel face down while I disconnected the wiring from the back.

I had caused the problem earlier, when replacing the control clock board. A ribbon cable built into the control panel connects the touch pads to the clock. I did not know that the connector needed to be opened by pinching the tiny release levers at each end of one side of the connector and lifting it up. I forced the cable out, and discovered later my expensive mistake.

I disconnected the ribbon and other cables, and removed the two hex screws holding the clock board. I turned up the face of the panel and slid off the 4 burner controls. Each control is held in place by 2 round-headed screws that require a very small allen wrench. Luckily, I had an assortment of the wrenches that turned out from a handle like blades from a pocket knife.

With all the connections removed from the back, I removed the plastic triangular side covers, two srcrews each, and the bottom trim strip, held by 4 phillips screws.

I put things back on the new panel in reverse order. This time I was VERY careful to PINCH and LIFT OPEN the connector on the clock board in order to slide in the cable. Everything seems OK now.

FIrst we found the power source ( this took us awhile) and cut the power at the fuse box. then we unplugged the cooktop and started to take out screws. It turned out the screw removal had nothing to do with the stove top coming out. We took the taping knife & pried it under a corner and lifted. the cook top was just sitting on the counter.
The hardest part of the whole job was holding the cook top because we did not disconnect the downdraft fan other than to pull the tape off the vent & fan. Now we could undo the rachet screws that held the glass top to the cook top & remove it.
Theburner was simply a matter of pulling connections loose & placing them on to the new one. The clips that hold the burner in place were removed w/ a screwdriver & replaced on to the new burner. Watch for the numbers on the burner underside to know where to reattache the clips. the unit that lights up to show that a burner is hot would not come off, but we managed to remove
the plastic part even though the clip screw would not loosen, and since it only had to float near by we used the unused wire included in the new part to hold it in place. Putting the unit back together was not too hard, but it took us a little while to get it all lined up. Be carefull of what ever you work on, the downdraft fan scratched up the counter top that we were working on. we started with cardboard under it & should have continued, we did not want to try & remove the fan. Then we put it back in the counter opening & plugged everything back in & to our amazement ( we are not handy people) it worked! the lights that had refused to work when one unit was burned out now worked on all four units. thank you partselect, we were able to do the repair with what you sent.

I turned off the circuit breaker to the cooktop. I had to remove aluminum tape from the downdraft fan so it would disconnect from the exhaust duct. I noticed that I had a long enough electrical connection so I could just lift the cooktop up out of the opening and support it at the corners with shims. I removed all the knobs from the cooktop and then removed the 1/4" sheet metal screws that held the ceramic top to the base. My cooktop had a downdraft fan in the center which has 2 phillips head screws that at first I didn't see, but once I removed those, the ceramic top came off and exposed all the inner workings. I removed the 2 phillips screws holding the switch and then swapped each wire from the old switch to the new one. After that, it was just a matter of reversing the process to get everything back in working order.

Thanks to JP in customer service.

TURN THE POWER OFF TO THE STOVE at the breaker box!
I had to pull all the burner knobs off (4ea) and remove the screw under each one. Then open the oven door and remove the screws holding a trim piece on and the hex head screws holding the "touch pad panel" on (was also held on by the screws I had already removed from behind the knobs) 1 smaller screw at each end (total of 2) under there hold the plastic trim on that needs to be moved slightly to let the panel come out. (DON'T OVER TIGHTEN WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE) You hang the panel in the 2 slots provided and remove the old display unit. Gently unplug the 2 wire harnesses and ribbon that actually connect the touch panel to the display PC board. Look for the 2 small holes in the ribbon that will line up with the female part on the board. A piece on the board where the ribbon plugs in will slide up a little and allow you to plug the ribbon in and then push it gently back down. Finish putting it back together and turn power back on at the breaker box. Works perfectly.

First, disconnected downdraft fan from ductwork below stovetop. Pushing from below, was able to lift entire stovetop assembly up to expose nuts holding glass top to the underlying burner assembly. used 2 lengths of 2x4's under the whole stovetop assembly to hold it up while I worked. Unscrewed all hex nuts and 2 screws at top of downdraft opening and easily lifted glass top off, exposing elements below. Removed a few screws holding defective switch in place. I then moved one wire at a time from the old switch to the new switch. I actually followed directions of another partsect customer. His step by step directions for the wiring was invaluable. Worked perfectly. My wife and daughter are very impressed.

Remove burner knobs, Removed 7 screws from bottom of face plate. Removed screws from 2 alluminum or steel spacers I guess you could call them. I let the Op Panel hang carefully not to stress wires. I marked all wires of the Latch asm. Removed the four screws holding it in and carefully removed the wires. Replaced in opposite manner and self cleaning works. The oven tried to start the cycle but I noticed the latch never triggered. When the function first stopped working I was able to apply slight force to the door and the latch fired. So after replacing the door switch it still failed to work. So latch asm was the official fix. So I have had to replace the latch asm and the Op Panel for being dim. I don't think this model is very good. But Partselect.com is great easy to find parts and good prices. Very pleased with my experience.

Removed 8 screws of retainer holding glass top to box.. Pulled 5 knobs and glass top and set aside. Popped 2 retaining clips holding burner , removed them and transferred to new burner (#12 and #48 position). Used wide blade screwdriver to facilitate removing terminals from old burner and attached terminals to new burner.Popped retaining clips into crossbeam, put glass top on and 8 screws back into retainer. Works great.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

removed 4 screws holding burner controls. removed wires off old and placed on new burner control. very pleased with quick shippig of part. two days and range was as good as new. excellent company to buy from