RVM225BL01 Hotpoint Microwave - Instructions

Replaced the handle with a new one with only two screws.
At least the original lasted 15 years

.Thank You Dan

Removed the screw from the broken piece. Put the new handle in the proper location and screw it tight to the door. It is like new now and my wife is very happy to have it ready for the holidays.

Jim Maholic

Simply slid new part into track holder by hand.)

Phillips screws on bottom panel allowed me to install new socket and put electric connection back. Secured bottom panel and that was it.

Slide out the old ones then slide in the new ones. A 30 second job.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward

Removed the two screws (top and bottom) from the interior of the door which allowed the handle to be removed. Positioned the new handle and secured it with the two screws that were used previously

llation

When the handle broke again, I had to remove the old glue. That part was the most difficult. After that, it was a snap to install the new part. I was a little afraid that I may have ordered the wrong part but there was a 30 day return policy so I went ahead and ordered it. My son was so proud that I had fixed it myself!

I ordered the part and received it within 2 days, despite my expectations of one week. My husband undid the screws, attached the new handle and screwed it in. It was that simple! And to think that I was ready to phone an appliance repair man!

Two screws. Too easy.

The door handle on the microwave had broken at the bottom fastener, and several glue repair attempts had proved futile over time. After removing the existing handle, I needed to bore the existing hole a little, to remove glue and plastic remnants. So I used a 5/16" drill bit and bored the hole to a depth of about 1/8." Once this was done, I used the existing fasteners and attached the new door handle. No movement in the handle when the door is pulled.