Enter the code DIYDAD10 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on June 17 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Right front gas burner ignitor wouldn't spark
I used the experience of another user posted on your web site. I removed all the gas control knobs and then I followed his instructions about removing the four phillps head screws that held the front plate in place. Once I had it loose and flipped the plate out, it was simple to disconnect the old ignitor switch and install the new one. Simply reversing the process put the range back in proper order. Took a little over 15 minutes to accomplish.
First, I checked the ripped box for damage to the dishrack. Fortunately, there was none. Then I looked for the instruction booklet. Unfortunately, there was none. And the parts bag was ripped and I did not know what was supposed to be in it. So, I rechecked the photo of the dishrack on the website and found that either parts were missing or the dishrack was different than illistrated. After a few moments of thought, I realized the latter was the case. I then figured I would have to use some deep thought to do the installation since neither the missing instruction booklet nor the unzoomable photo would help. So, I pulled out the tall thin thingamabob from the old dishrack and put it in the new one though it did not secure as tightly. Then I put the wheel units on just like the old one. What I could not immediately figure out was where the collapsible rack row was mounted. I eventually realized that the rod went into a hole in the wheel units and the latch mounted above one unit. I still have no idea where the two other tan clips go. Though the dishrack is different and thus requires different science to fill it, it appears to do the job.
The bottom dishrack was having areas that were breaking off and showing rust.
We took the rollers off the old one (new ones came with the dishrack also) and put them on the dishrack (they snapped on). There was also an extra piece that we figured out how to put on. Then slid it in place and it was fine.
None of the surface burners (two Uni-burners) would light without using a match. I first ordered two replacement PS2089818 top burner spark electrodes. I replace one which was very easy - the electrode just clips into the burner - and I traced the wires down to the back bottom of the stove where I found they plugged into an ignition module. The new electrode didn't help, but since all four burners were out it made sense that the ignition module would be the problem and not the two separate electrodes. So I ordered a new ignition module. It plugged in easily with the terminals well marked like the original. I put the original electrode back in and all four burners now light properly with the desired "tic tic tic" sound with the knobs in the "high/light" position.
Unplug and pull range away from wall. Remove metal panel from back of range by using nutdriver to remove 4 screws. Use phillips scewdriver to remove 2 screws holding old spark module. Unplug 4 wires from spark module and note placement of wires for reinstall. Install new module by reversing procedure. Slide range back against wall and plug in.
Entire process took less than 30 minutes.
NOTE: Spark Module received from partselect.com did not match old part exactly. The screw holes on the new part did not line up with screw holes from old part. I reinstalled new part with just 1 screw. Was told by partselect customer service that the part I received had been substituted and would work fine. It does work but it did not fit correctly.
Old infinity switch on electric rangetop did not work correctly
Lifted range top, disconnected and labled wires from old switch, removed old switch, replaced wires on new switch, installed new switch. NOTE: Local appliance store informed me that the electric cooktop was too old and that a replacement switch was not available and wanted to sell me a new cooktop for $795! I found the switch on PartSelect and repaired the cooktop. Total cost... UNDER THIRTY DOLLARS!!
Surface Element switch faulty with no control on heat
Turned power completely off. Removed knob from front panel. Opened range top cover. Removed 3 screws from aluminum panel protector behind the element switch. Once panel is removed you can see the switch element. Remove 2 screws from the front panel that connects to the element switch. Remove the old element and replace with new element making sure that each of the 5 wires on the old element is transferred one by one to the new element. Reverse the process in putting it all together. Turn on the power and walla you've have a new stove. You just save $600 plus.
I found the received switch (PS12070192) a poor replacement for the original, or even the earlier replaced part (PS11744446, in 2016) I was going to replace since the press/return feature seemed slow to return.
The male spade lugs on the received switch are so positioned that engagement is only possible if the lug is bent out at a large angle. The lug set-back from the body edge, and the raised ribs on the sides still prevent full engagement of the connections.
I did install the new switch but found that was the only switch that didn’t give a signal light when turned on.
Lower dishwasher rack was deteriorating (extensive rust) and needed to be replaced
The lower dish rack rolls directly out of the dishwasher without problem - there is no permanent attachment. The new rack comes as a kit, which includes the 4 required dish rack wheels (Part # 6 in the diagram). One part (only) from the original dish rack needs to be removed and re-installed on the new rack - the upper spray arm tower (Part #5 in the diagram). That is easily removed from the original rack with a 1/8 counterclockwise turn, to disengage the 'feet', and installed on the new rack with a 1/8 clockwise turn. The kit is designed to allow for use on multiple models, so there are 'extra' parts left over, after it is used for the DU8500XX-2 dishwasher. These can be discarded.
THE LOWER RACK WAS CORRODING IN SPOTS AND WAS RUSTING
THERE WERE NO INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED, COULDN'T FIGURE 0UT HOW TO INSTALL THE NEW ROLLERS ON THE NEW RACK FINALLY INSTALLED THE OLD ROLLERS ON THE NEW RACK AND THEY WERE MUCH EASIER TO INSTALL I DONT UNDERSTAND WHY THE NEW ROLLERS WERE THE SAME AS THE OLD ROLLERS EXCEPT FOR THE COST.
my old lower dishwasher rack was rusted out and some parts broken.
Snapped on the rollers, removed the center part from the old rack that sprays the water and snapped it on the new one. We then bent the back row down so it would acomodate my larger items. My old rack had that feature. You could either have the rack up or down. Now l ooks beautiful and works perfectly. Could have used some directions though.
