REX4634KQ1 Roper Dryer - Instructions

Unpluged the dryer. Removed the vent hose with a reg. screwdriver. used a 1/4" nut driver removed the back of the dryer. Located the The Thermal fuse and replaced it. Found the Cycling Thermostat removed the 1/4" screw and changed the wires one at a time to get them in the right spot. Reinstalled the Cycling Thermostat. Pluged the dryer in and turned it on. It fired up in about 10 seconds. Turned it off and unpluged it. Reinstalled the back and Hose and away we went.

This is a long, sad story, but I'll cut to the chase. I was told by few appliance repair guys that my problem was most likely due to the motor being bad. I had checked the thermal fuse, the door switch, and the power switch, and all were good so that made sense. I then saw a video which made it seem fairly straight forward to remove the old motor and replace it. So I ordered the motor from Part Select. Turns out it's impossible to remove the motor without also removing (and replacing) the blower. The video never mentions that. Also FYI, I found out that my dryer switch WAS broken, and nothing was wrong with the motor, so I spent $250 on a repair that should have cost %40. Oh well ...

It snapped right in. Works perfect.

I watched the You Tube video on this site. The only issue is there is a plastic fitting that I seriously damaged trying to remove the motor from the blower. You have to hold the plastic fiting stationary while turning the nut on the other end of the motor. If you try to rotate the plastic fitting you'll destroy it as I did. I got it loose by squeezing the plastic fitting with a large pair of channel lock pliers and then rotating the nut.

I was able to take apart the dryer myself and get old belt out, then my son helped me remove the drum and put new belt on. Well worth fixing; it works great again and the part with shipping and handling was only $17.00! better then price of new dryer!!!Thanks, Mary ( Cincinnati)

I tore down the dryer, to find any and all issues. The belt was worn, the rear support wheels were worn, the Blower Wheel was cracked and busted, the left felt support was absent, the right felt support was shot, the water tube leading to the steaming chamber was split in two and disconnected. Ordered all parts from here, they shipped VERY fast, and the hardest part is getting the drum back in and set right. The belt was fairly 3easy to put back on if you removed the water tube support and get your right hand all the way back in there so you can pull the pulley wheel back while holding the belt. Completely cleaned the cabinet out, vacuum and scraper. Put a new exhaust hose on while I was at it, just in case. Once everything was put back together, carefully, the dryer works as good as new. I was told to never get rid of this dryer, they quit making them, and I see why. Easy to repair, does my dress clothes in the top cabinet, dries like a commercial machine in the lower. Oh some installation notes...The front panel comes completely off, if you disconnect the ground and the yellow wire on the lower right (your right) side. This makes everything else much easier. There are 4 front panel screws, 4 edge screws, and four counter screws inside the upper cabinet that must be removed. I had to pull the side holder screws to removed the top plat so I could remove the drum. Keep track of your screws!!! You will need a flathead, a Phillips, a small socket (I forget what size), and some needle nose pliers to remove clips (from the wheel).

Initial diagnoses suspected a faulty igniter. After deterininig that there was not power to the igniter I unplugged the dryer and systematically tested the continuity of each of the temperature limit swithches which all checked OK. The last item in the circuit is the thermal fuse which proved to be faulty. To confirm that this was the only problem I monentarily by passed the fuse to verify that the burner came on. To do all this I had to remove the fron panel and take out the drum. Actually the thermal fuse is located behind th back cover and is very easy to replace and probably should have been my fist go to suspect. Note the likely cause of the thermal fuse failure is a plugged up lint filter or exhaust duct which should be checked before installing a new fuse.

replace with new element since I had the back off. Might as well do high limit and tstat. Since the dryer belt was very old I decided to replace it also. The repair was very easy since the parts matched perfectly.

looked at schematic diagram, compared to unit finally used a multimeter to check fuse.. replaced fuse, assembled dryer and turned on to check operation. OK.

Repairing my dryer was one of the easiest things I have ever done and saved me quite a lot of money. The hardest part was getting the bolts out, mainly because I used pliers instead of the tool needed for the bolts in hard to reach places. I watched a video online on how to replace the parts, ordered the parts needed for my model, and repaired it myself in minutes. I replaced the heating element, both thermostats and the Thermal Fuse. I have very little time and money invested and my dryer works perfectly.

So glad we tried the belt and rollers before going out and buying a new one. Very quiet now,so happy!

We have a 20 year old Whirlpool dryer and it stopped heating and drying. I searched online for causes and linked to this website. The problem list recommended the heating element replacement. I checked a local appliance store and they had the element for $91.00. I quickly ordered the element form the web site for half the price delivered. Not being too handy, I watched the installation video, grabbed my nut driver set and headed to the laundry room. The back came off in minutes and I was able to swap the element in about 5 minutes. I put the back on and tested...no heat. Back to the website and I ordered the next likely part, the thermal fuse. A day later the part arrived and another 15 minutes later I was again testing the dryer...no heat. Back to the website and ordered the Thermal cutoff kit and cycling thermostat. They arrived the next day..in fact I just got done fixing the dryer. First I replaced the cycling thermostat, no go. Then I replaced the high limit thermostat, nothing, then the thermal cut off fuse, and voila, heat in the dryer. Always start with the last part you would replace (always the way). I spent around $100 including shipping and although others may have been able to find it sooner, I now have a new heating element as well as all the other heat related parts. I probably saved a few hundred dollars bringing in a technician to fix this. I would recommend Parts Select to anyone with this or other appliance issues. Great website for the experienced DIYer or novices. Thanks Parts Select!

went on-line to research the problem. found the site and listed the issue. agreed with the probability and ordered the part. it came in a few days. After I ordered the part I watched the short instructional video that was available from the site. the repair took about 10 minutes to pull out the dryer, remove the back, take off the old part and put on the new part - put the back on plugged it in and push it back then turned it on. DONE

Checked motor and other components and found Thermal Fuse did not check out allowing voltage to motor. Replaced Thermal Fuse and Dryer worked

the only thing i do around the house is changing the light bulb, so when our dryer was not working and was about 5 years old, i was told it cost too much to repair and i am better of to get a new one so watched few clips on you tube and ordered the parts from partselect which came with instruction, i could not believe it spend about $100.00 and my dryer is working better than before. bottom line if i can do this anyone can.