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PYE4500AYQ Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the PYE4500AYQ
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Dryer shut off before clothes were dry
The old sensor came out by removing 2 screws. I unplugged the two wires from the back of the sensor and plugged them into the new sensor. I reinstalled the new sensor using the same two screws. Of course, I unplugged the dryer first.
Parts Used:
Moisture Sensor
  • Paul from Tamaqua, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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loud rattling and grinding noise when drum is turning
Always begin repairs by unplugging the power cord from the power outlet! First, push in the 2 taps under the dryer top to lift it up and secure it at a 90 degree angle. Remove the door light switch from the retaining clip and let it hang to the outside of the dryer. After removing the 2 scews inside the top front, remove the front dryer cover. Next, remove the screws holding the blower cover and set it aside. Using a pair of plyers, remove the hose clip from the blower axle. Use a c-clip tool to remove the c-clip and pull out the blower wheel. Use a vacuum attachment hose to remove lint and other dirt from the wheel housing and dryer. Apply a light dish soap to the motor axle and slide on the new blower wheel. Replace the blower housing cover, front dryer cover, light switch, and close the dryer top, making sure to allign the pins and holes near the lid clips that secure the dryer top. Plug in the dryer power cord and you are set to go! Retire to your favorite lounge chair, grab the remote, and tell your wife that it is OK to "test" the dryer! However, do not attempt the last step until AFTER you have cleaned up all the mess you made while making the repair!
Parts Used:
Blower Wheel
  • Steve from Green Bay, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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pull out lint screen holder broke
used a flat blade screw driver to open top up(like a car hood) then removed two screws that held the front panel on. Two more screws held the lint colector part in place. The only problem that I had was that I had to use Elmers white glue to hold the gasket that ran around the lint colector in place.Just a little dab, not enough to soak it.When I took the part out there was about a volleyball's worth of lint in the fan blower. Ordered the part and 2 or three days later I had it. If I need another part I will be back...
Parts Used:
Lint Duct Housing
  • steve from madison, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Lint screen assembly holder had broken
First I removed the 2 screws located on front panel securing dust collector in place, then I removed the two screws on the side of the dryer that secure the front panel. I also "popped" the top
of the dryer from the front panel. The front of the panel was then detached from the dryer. I thenpulled the gasket away from the collector, removed the old one and installed the new collector. Part of the kit also contained a new gasket to the exhaust duct, I merely removed the old gasket and installed the new one.. All this was notas hard asit sounds. The diagram from PartsSelect site helped
Parts Used:
Lint Duct Housing
  • George from Vernon, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer drum belt broke
I needed to remove the front lower cover, very easy as it is held on with clips only so I used a flat head screw driver to pop it off. I had to remove the lint filter and then there are two screws attaching the top cover of the dryer to the internal lint filter tray. The top of the dryer can then be opened front to back I again used the flat head screw driver to pop the top open as it has two clips at the front corners. It helps to have someone to hold it open or a rod of some type to keep it open. You can now lay the belt on the top of the drum and work it down the back side by pulling forward on the drum itself to seperate the drum from the seal that presses aginst the back side of the drum. I then went from the lower front to retrieve the belt now draped over the drum and pinched the belt to pass it through the tensioner and over the drive pulley. looking at it from the front the belt will come down the right side of the drum under the tensioner pulley around the drive pulley across the bottom of the drum and up the left side. The belt sits almost in the middle of the drum not against the back lip where there is a groove that might be confused as a place for the belt to ride that is where the seal sits then reverse the process to reattach the top to lint tunnel and reattach front cover and you are good to go . i would suggest vaccuming any old dust/ lint whlie everything is open as this reduces the chance for catching on fire I was supprised as to how much lint was loose inside the dryer cavity itself and our dryer is gas and the flame is an open flame.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Paul from Athens, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer did not run at all
removed heating element, thermostat, and then replaced fuse. sorry, the control thermostat was not the problem. it was the fuse kit that failed. the control thermostat would have been easier to replace.
Parts Used:
Cycling Thermostat
  • Ronald from Jacksonville, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
11 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer was squealing while spinning
I followed the directions from a post on parts select that somebody had previously written and my repair worked out perfectly. I removed the top / lid of the dryer by placing a flat head screwdriver underneath both top front corners which was relatively simple. I then removed the entire front door of the dryer by disconnecting the electric wires for the door which again was a very simple procedure. The tumbler was now exposed at which time I removed the belt (I took a picture of the belt setup for later reassembly) and lifted the tumbler off giving myself easy access to the rear drum rollers and front drum pads. I was able to see that the wheels were worn and definitely the cause of the squealing. I changed out the wheels with replacement wheels which was self explanatory. The front pads were in good shape but I figured that at this point it would serve me well to replace them also which I did. I then reset the new belt (another part that I opted to change while I had the opportunity) on the tumbler with the picture in hand and had no problem. This step did require two people but still not a difficult step. I then put the door and lid back together and now had myself an extremely quiet dryer and a piece of mind that new parts were installed. All in all pretty easy repair.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit Front Glide Kit Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Dale from YONKERS, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer made noises like metal on metal grinding
Unplugged the dryer then popped the top off and tilted it back, exposing the drum. Then using a flat bladed screw driver, removed the two sheet metal screws holding the front panel on. Once the front panel was removed, I pulled the drum off, exposing the motor and worn pulley. I removed the pulley arm, then removed the pulley. The bearings were totally gone, so I replaced it with a new pulley, replaced the belt and the front drum glides, since they were obviously worn. While it was apart, I cleaned out the interior with a shop vac, which greatly improved the efficiency of the dryer.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Dryer Drum Glide - Left Side Dryer Drum Glide - right side Right Side Drum Glide Pad Idler Pulley Wheel
  • Greg from Salt Lake City, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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old latch broke
I inserted the clip
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • Jim from Germantown, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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broken pulley and belt
Before anything else, I would like to thank your company for a quick response and fast delivery of the parts that I ordered. Ordering parts from your company saved me a lot of money. The repair took me about 15 min. First I removed the two screws that hold the front cover and then I pulled out the drum and replaced the broken pulley, then I put back the drum and the belt in place and then I put the cover and screwed back in and now I'm back washing and drying pile of clothes.
Parts Used:
Motor Pulley Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Raul from cypress, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
15 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer Quit running
First off I want to say I ordered my motor on Sunday night at 11:30 PM on veterans day and got the two day delivery. My part was sent out on that Monday (fed. holiday) and I received it Tuesday around 1:00 pm after I disconnected the wiring harness, took the blower fan C-clips off, unscrewed about 6 screws, and pulled the assembly apart I just done everything in reverse and replaced the new motor. I discovered that my thermostat fuse was blown so I ordered the High temp thermostat kit from here (two day delivery) on Wednesday at 10:30 PM and got the parts Friday at around 2:00 PM. After taking out four screws and four wires I replaced the fuse and high temp. set, pushed the start button to see if it worked and it started up like new. Now it heats twice as fast and everything doesn't have a light burnt smell. So dry time is faster (no more 80-90 min. cycle times), less dryer sheets (to cover smell) and all this added up to cost savings on electric bill and dryer sheets. It took a week to get my dryer back (because I just looked at the motor) but in the end I needed the fuse and motor. The quick turn around time to get the parts, the pictures to see if I had the right parts, and the ease of ordering the parts meant only one run to the laundry mat, and that wouldn't have happen if the dryer hadn't messed up on laundry day.
Parts Used:
Drive Motor
  • William from Marion, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Part cracked and clothes were getting caught
First I removed the screws that held the part in place, but this proved to be the hardest part for me. I had to find the right kind of screw driver . It was not a slotted or Phillips. It was more star shaped. Once I had the right tool, the rest was pretty easy.
I then opened the top of the dryer to be able to lay the front on the floor. There were wires connected to the front, however, so I had to remove the part that the wires were connected to by slipping it out of the bracket that held it in place. Once the front panel was on the floor, I simply lifted the old part out and placed the new part in. I closed the front, replacing the part with wires back into the bracket, locked the top down tight, replaced the screws, and I was finished.
Parts Used:
Lint Duct Housing
  • Cathy from Dallastown, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer continuously running, no timer advance, dampness indication stayed on "wet"
Took 3 screws out of the back of the back of the machine and tilted the control panel houseing forward. Slid the module free of it's track and unplugged the bundled wiring plug. Plugged new module, relpaced in is slot and put the control panel back in place
Parts Used:
Moisture Sensor
  • keith from saluda, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
9 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broken Lint Duct tearing clothes and collecting large amounts of lint
After reading the comments of on-line customers, I realized the dryer opens like the hood of a car and then you pull the front of the dryer door off in order to get to the two screws holding the old lint duct housing unit. Putting the new part on was easier, but I would have appreciated a detailed picture along with the written instructions. Thank you for your quick delivery. Kathleen Yosso
Parts Used:
Lint Duct Housing
  • Kathleen from Belmont, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer started making loud noises while running
The repair was relativley easy. Had to remove the top, it popped up with a screwdriver and picked it up and leaned against the wall. Then removed two screws to remove the front.Removed old belt then move dryer tub forward, removed bad roller bearing, installed new bearing,applied some grease ( had to use a screwdriver to pry bearing pin off/on which is reusable.Finally installed the new belt around tub, the most trickey part since there was no access panel, but after a few tries it was easy to figure out.Great price on items and i checked several places,quality parts and delivered only a couple days after i ordered. I highly recommend partselect. Thanks Kirt
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Support Roller Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Kirt from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the PYE4500AYQ
31 - 45 of 530