PTI22MBMLW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

repalaced the old one with the new one. easy

Part 2 (screws): I let the refrigerator warm to room temp overnight. I took off the freezer shelf brackets and light, and then the bottom of the freezer compartment using a dime to pry it up (tricky). I poured water into the drain under the coil and it drained very slowly. OK, the drain line's plugged somewhere and it's not ice. I took off the back cardboard compressor cover, unbolted and pulled out the fan, and saw the drain tube in the drain pan. There's a little hole cut in the side of the tube. I took a 6 ft length of plastic trimmer line from a lawn edger/trimmer and ran it through the hole and all the way up the drain line. Water started draining out! I jiggled the line around some to make sure it was clear, then I replaced everything the way it came apart. The white painted freezer screws had lost their paint since this was the third time in 4 years the freezer had been dismantled before diagnosing the plugged drain line. The first time this happened, (at age 10 years (not me-the refrigerator)) I called a repairman who said I should just replace the refrigerator since this brand was no good. He was wrong - he just didn't know how to fix it and now it's working fine (plus he lost one of the screws). I really like my now 14 year-old GE Profile refrigerator and I'd buy another (plus it was made in the USA!!) Second time, I took it apart myself and failed to notice the drain was partially plugged with something (I assumed it was frozen). Part 1 (slide cover): The other repair was the right bottom shelf bracket got broken somehow. The replacement bracket from PartSelect was identical to the original and the repair was easy, except it took me a while to remember how it went together. Thanks and I hope you like my trimmer line ldea. Support our economy - buy American!! Thanks PartSelect. Signed GR in Corpus Christi, TX.

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

First I flipped breaker to off position for refigerator, Pulled down on socket and broke it free. Then took needle nose piars to pull wire and plug out from hole, so I could conect to new light socket then snaped it in place . Hardest part was getting wire and plug out of hole.

Replaced unit

Pulled out old socket.pushed in new one.

-- Hardest part was removing the section to get into the Defrost Thermostat. Used a hand scraper to push plastic piece back wards (39 in parts diagram) once pushed back about 1/4" it then pops up and can come out (towards the front). Noticed that the evaporator was full of ice and the fan was working). Replaced Thermostat after defrosting evaporator... works like a charm.

Easy. Followed the video instrucations. the part was right there next to the compressor.

I ordered the part, within two days we had received it. My husband put the part in and I really don't know what he used doing so. All I know is that the light works now and we don't have to use the flashlight. Thanks a lot.

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

Defrost timer is hidden in the control panel in the refrigerator top middle. Turn to off and remove two screws which are hidden behind white tabs. I had to pry the old timer from the plug with a screw driver because it was tight. Try not to short across the terminals. Plug in the new timer. Replace it in the clip where you got old one and reinstall the controls. The freezer was still all frosted up so I had to remove the cover and defrost it with a hair dryer to get it to work. Then I turned it on and it works great.

Checked the defroster coil which is located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment, it was still working. Followed the schematics down to the defrost timer, which is located in the lower front of the refrigerator and tried that. Plugged in the new part and the problem is solved.

Had to get behind the refrigerator and clean the drain out first and that took at least and hour. Just unplug the old motor. Took the old parts of the old motor, put them on the new one and plugged it back in.