Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
leaking ice maker,big chunks ot ice were forming and had to remove them 2-3 times a day
removed old ice maker by taking out a couple of screws in the back of freezer,when new ice maker arrived i saw that it didn't have the same hose apparatus as old one so I easily took apart old one then took apart new one and switched them out-very-- easily done for a 61 yr old lady I might add-- also had to reinstall ice maker arm off old ice maker as new one does not come with one Then installed new ice maker in freezer I am very very pleased,sure saved a lot of money doing it my self
Old plastic ring was damaged due to leaking icemaker causing door to open when ice dispensed.
No tool required! Pulled out tray, emptied ice into large bowl for reuse. Pushed in and pulled from inside the coil springed auger until could get old plastic ring off and put new one on. Useing care not to apply too much pressure to ice dispensing end so as not to break housing. Have to turn auger assembly at an angle to compress enough and get old ring off. Needs a little physical strenth & care not to force plastic housing to breaking point. Worked great reused saved ice. Took less than 10 minutes
Compressor running continually, and refrigerator too cold
Maytag wide by side refrigerators tend to eat these parts about once a year, and this is my third assy so the replacement went very fast. When we used the Maytag warranty they replaced this part about 6 times, after they exchanged the refrigerator. No major disassembly is required, drop the plastic after removing a few screws, plug in the assy, and you are good to go, no more frozen food in the refer. The only tricky part is getting the clips to release so you can slide the plastic cover forward, but after a while they break off and it is easier to remove.
I turned off the fridge. Used a nut driver to remove panel and defrosted coils with a hair dryer. Undid the old assembly and plugged in the new one, put panel back on and turned fridge back on. I have replaced the Adaptive Defrost Timer and the Defrost Heater and Thermostat Assembly.
The refrigerator door would not close on its own and needed to be pushed
First we removed screws in the top hinge, then lifted the door up and off the bottom hinge. Replacement of the door closer and lower hinge pin took less than a couple of minutes. Then putting the door back on and screwing the top back on was nothing.
We additionally replaced the puriclean filter which simply was twisting it off and then the new one back on
Remove ice maker. Remove single screw from under enclosure. Unplug wiring harness from refrigerator. Remove Ice enclosure. Removed metal yoke (left hand thread) with light tap from rubber hammer then removed all screws holding motor assembly and yoke assembly. Reverse the procedure to install components. Plug in wiring harness and install enclosure. Align ice dispenser with metal yoke on enclosure and install ice dispenser.
The drive motor for ice cubes, and solenoid had broken off from the enclosure
Empty freezer
Shut off power
Use two striaght screw drivers to hold the electrical connector clamps open
Remove connector, noting which wire colors were from top to bottom
Remove clamp screw under the enclosure
Remove the Yoke from the motor. It is attached by a left handed thread. Tapping with a small hammer may be necessary to free the locked position. Keep the washer safe.
Remove screws from ther motor, the solenoid, and the plastic solenoid armature cover.
Fit the motor and solenoid to the new enclosure, using existing screws.
Fit the Yoke on to the motor shaft.
Attach the solenoid to the enclosure.
Slide the armature into the solenoid, and screw the armature guide and cover into place.
Test movem,ent of the solenoid armature by hand, to ensure free movement.
Attach a string loop to the end of the connector so that it stays at the top while the enclosure is put into place. Slide the enclosure in, reconnect, add retaining screw.
Disconnected power to frig. Had to wait for "ice block to defrost in ice bin and enclosure before removal. Caused by water from a frozen water tube overflowing into bin. This in turn "locked" the screw in place causing the motor to break from its mount on enclosure when trying to get ice. Removed broken enclosure,one screw on left side and lift out leaving motor hanging. Disconnected wiring marking where they would reattach removed other part from enclosure. Unsnapped wiring harness from back wall. Removed yoke from motor. Easier than I thought . A light tap with a hammer (right side with yoke facing you) it spun right off. Attached wiring to parts and then installed parts to enclosure. Tapped yoke with hammer again. Repositioned encloser and from under reached up and plugged in the harness into the back wall. Mounted encluser and ice maker. Ice maker is up and running. Will pay more attention when screw is bound up and not from blocked dispenser. Thanks for Part and How to section..
the fridge side work fine, the freezer won't freeze
I used a nutdriver to unscrew the four bold, I disconnect the defrost heater assembly, I used boil water to unfreeze where the heater assembly hook, then I unclip the bottom I remove it and slide the new one the same way and replaace those two covers and connect the fridge back and it work like a charm. Thanks again Partselect. I save a bundle money and waiting time....
I took out the bottom two food baskets and one shelf. Removed two screws with a 1/4" nut driver. Then took two screws of the cooling element of which the defrost element was attached underneath. Disconnected two plugs and replaced the new part. The easiest repair I have ever done.
I took off the backing off the back of the refrig. & the water valve with a nutdriver. Then unpluged two wire connectors & disconnect three water lines. Pulled out the old valve & hooked-up the new valve in reverse order. It don't get any easer than that. The dripping water dispencer was no more.
The solenoid from that operates the fountain went south
I ordered new solenoid that came with door. I installed it and it was making a very loud buzzing noise. I also had a frost buildup between the icemaker and the icemaker chute in the door. I posted my problem on the forum and Sheila suggested that the heat from the defective solenoid might have distorted the fountain housing, causing the new solenoid not to seat right, and possibly letting outside air into the icemaker. On closer inspection I saw that the hosing WAS distorted. I ordered a new one, installed it, problem solved! Hats off to the staff here, where else can you get a diagnosis first -so you know what parts to order!
I removed the cover and unplugged the heater unit and thermostat. I then checked the resistance of the unit. The unit was bad. I then replaced the unit. This was a very simple repair.
cool was freezing up causing ther fridge to get warm
1.Pulled all ther baskets and shelves out of freezer and unplugged unit. 2. Using a nut driver remove screws holding coil covers in place on the back wall. 3.Use a hair dryer to fully defrost the coil in the freezer allowing you to unplug the electrical connector and take the thermastat control switch off the cooling tube. 4. Pull out aluminum pin between coils holding heater coil in place on right side. 5. Remove black foam insert on right side to allow removal of coil wires 6. reverese to reinstall * Note this heater replacemnet coil did not fix my problem. I consulted a Maytag Repairman who told me to relace it..well he was wrong so I further researched the problem and found my problem was the ADCB inside the refrigarator. I strongly suggest you replace this part first and wait 8-12 hours and recheck the condensor coil. Some frosting will occur but tha ADC ( automatic defrost control board will cause the defrost heater to come on at all diffrent times according to your usage of the appliance. total cost was under 100.00 to replace the heater coil and ADCB. A bargin compared to the $400-$500 the Maytag guy would charge to do the same.
