Models > MDG5500AWW > Instructions

MDG5500AWW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDG5500AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDG5500AWW
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large tear in the mesh

  • Customer: catherine from metter GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 70 of 133 people found this instruction helpful
no repair needed but the part could not be found in the area i live . ordering was easy and deliver time quoted was very resonable but the part came the very next time that was wonderful.

Worn out lint filter.

  • Customer: JOSEPH from WARWICK RI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 68 of 126 people found this instruction helpful
Very easy with a tip from the video that was provided from Parts Select.
Thank You
Joseph Errico

Switch sticking in on position

  • Customer: Don from Jacksonville FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 48 of 71 people found this instruction helpful
FIRST unplug dryer from electrical source, CAUTION, the top of this dryer does not open with clips, do not pry on top to open! On the front of the dryer look under the lower panel, and find two screws, one on the left side, and one on the right, remove these screws, and pull slightly down on panel to remove. Behind this panel find two screws holding the door panel, one on the left, and one on the right, remove the left, and support the door panel while removing the right side. Gently pull the bottom of door panel outward, and the clips on top of door panel will unhinge from top, carefully rotate left side of door panel to floor, and note the wire connections on switch, and orientation of switch, then unplug wires, and move door panel to a comfortable working positon. Door must be open to remove switch, then depress the two plastic retaining keepers on each side of switch, and push switch through toward door. Replace with new switch, reconnect the wires, and reassymble in reverse order. Remember, door assymbly must be inserted in dryer top at an angle, and then bottom rotated downward, and bottom panel nylon guildes inserted into door panel bottom.

The Lint Filter was ripped.

  • Customer: Sandy from Ankeny IA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 66 of 128 people found this instruction helpful
I put the new one in . Nothing to it.

GAS FLAME WOULD DROP OUT

  • Customer: FRED from BRIELLE NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 41 of 55 people found this instruction helpful
first it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. after the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve.
THANK YOU
FRED KENNEY SR

Squeeling on startup and intermittently during use

  • Customer: Larry from Panama City Beach FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 37 of 44 people found this instruction helpful
First, I read reviews on this forum. Great help! I was betting, from previous reviews, that it was a drum roller. I took everything apart prior to ordering any parts. Sure enough, one drum roller was seized on the roller shaft. Decided to replace all rotating parts (rollers,shafts, belt, idler pulley) while everything was apart. I also took the opportunity to clean out all of the lint (there was a lot) from the motor and intake.
Parts were on my doorstep in two days. The dryer is like brand new. I could do this job again in less than an hour. This was money and time well spent.

Gas burner would not ignite

  • Customer: Jack from Conroe TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 25 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
(I knew the gas coils were bad, since the gas ignitor would glow brightly as the burner attempted to ignite. So I knew everything except the gas valve was operating normally.)

Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unplug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.

dryer would not dry clothes, no heat

  • Customer: Shelby from La Crescenta CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 25 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
I am a seventy year old recent widow, I have never repaired any appliance before. This was the first time I had ever seen the inside mechanisms of a dryer. I read the reviews on your site and followed the instructions of other do-it-yourselfers. However I could not locate the screws to remove the front of dryer. I would like to know if this dryer can be accessed through back of dryer, for future references. This is a 20 year old dryer, very well made, and I am reluctant to give it up. I think the job would have been much quicker and easier if the dryer front could be opened, as I would have also liked to check the main burner, valve, and belts, etc. for wear and if all was working efficently, as well as do a thorough cleaning. I did locate the igniter part through small door on bottom of dryer, I loosened the screw on igniter, unplugged small plug on wire harness and removed part. Ordered new igniter part and it arrived within less than three days, excellent service, as I live on the west coast. I replaced new igniter, turned on the gas, plugged in electrical cord, checked gas valve connection on back of dryer to make sure it was secure, turned on dryer and presto, heat, works just like new so far. A $25 part sure beats a $200 service repair or the cost of a new dryer.The repair job required about 45 minutes total time, most of that time spent trying to remove front of dryer. If a seventy year old woman beginner can do this, it should be a snap for most anyone else.

Metal on Metal Squealing Noise

  • Customer: John from Bethlehem PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 23 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
After taking the dryer apart, I found that one of the drum support rollers was barely hanging on the pin and was the main cause of the metal on metal squealing noise that became increasingly worse over a month's time.

I replaced both rollers, the idler pulley, and put on a new belt after giving the dryer a thorough cleaning.

It was a 100% success and fixed the problem making the dryer work and sound like brand new again.

Squeaking noise when dryer was on! Very annoying!

  • Customer: Scott from Davie FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
If your dryer is squeaking it is most likely either the idler pulley or drum rollers. First I took apart the dryer to see which parts I would need. I checked the drum rollers by spinning them with my hand to see if they spun freely and also checked them to see if they were loose, they were okay. Then I checked the idler pulley and found my problem, it was hard to spin it so I figured the bearing was shot. I sprayed some lubricant on the bearing to help with the squeaking while I waited for my parts. It took about 30 minutes to diagnose my problem and put the dryer back together.
I took some advise from another story saying to get the whole idler arm, shaft and pulley assembly. It might have cost me a few bucks more, but I did not want to run into the same problem he did (the pulley bearing was fused to the shaft). It took me about 20 minutes to take apart the dryer, install the part, and put it back together. If you are pretty good with fixing things, you should have no problem doing this repair.

Dryer would start and heat, but after 1st cycle the burner would not fire and a buzzing sound was coming from the gas valve solenoid area. Igniter and other functions worked fine.

  • Customer: David from Bedford IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front of dryer, unplugged each coil to determine where buzzing was coming from.....determined it was the boosting coil....ordered part and replaced. Dryer works great....we think it had be going bad over time because drying times have noticeable decreased.

dryer would get hot for a while, then quit heating

  • Customer: Sharon from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 24 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
After reading about other people with this same problem I took a chance that this would be what was wrong with my dryer.I took off the front cover of the dryer by removing two screws. I located the faulty coils and simply plugged in the 2 new coils Tah-dah Probably coud have been done without even removing the front panel, but since it was off I vacuumed out the lint ( actually my husband did all of the above, but I tell a better tale than he does and I diagnosed the problem and ordered theparts)

My dryer only heats up at the beginning of cycle so my clothes will not dry.

  • Customer: Monique from Mission Viejo CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I remove the front control panel and to get to the bottom front dryer door off. Using my volt meter i checked all the sensors and thermal. I surf the internet for hint and some one mention to replace the coil since some time you could have one goes out and the other working still. After i replaced the coil kit it works like a champ.

Dryer would not heat up.

  • Customer: Roger from Bonners Ferry ID
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

Intermittent or no gas ignition, HSI ignightor working

  • Customer: Steven from Sauk Village IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front of gas dryer and cleaned all lint out. Checked HSI, and cleaned flame sensor. Split (3 terminal) gas coil terminals were intermittent. Read about 700 ohms across outer two terminals, but center terminal to either outer terminal was open (Infiniti on meter) 2 terminal coil measured about 550 ohms. 3 terminal coil should read about 700 ohms across outer terminals, and about 1.5K ohms center to outer terminals. Unscrewed index cover plate and replaced coil, 2 terminal coil was okay. Reassembled and finished 12 loads of laundry no problems at all.
All Instructions for the MDG5500AWW
16-30 of 780