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Models > MDG5500AWW > Instructions

MDG5500AWW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDG5500AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDG5500AWW
31-45 of 794
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Intermittent or no gas ignition, HSI ignightor working

  • Customer: Steven from Sauk Village, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front of gas dryer and cleaned all lint out. Checked HSI, and cleaned flame sensor. Split (3 terminal) gas coil terminals were intermittent. Read about 700 ohms across outer two terminals, but center terminal to either outer terminal was open (Infiniti on meter) 2 terminal coil measured about 550 ohms. 3 terminal coil should read about 700 ohms across outer terminals, and about 1.5K ohms center to outer terminals. Unscrewed index cover plate and replaced coil, 2 terminal coil was okay. Reassembled and finished 12 loads of laundry no problems at all.

My dryer only heats up at the beginning of cycle so my clothes will not dry.

  • Customer: Monique from Mission Viejo, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 23 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
I remove the front control panel and to get to the bottom front dryer door off. Using my volt meter i checked all the sensors and thermal. I surf the internet for hint and some one mention to replace the coil since some time you could have one goes out and the other working still. After i replaced the coil kit it works like a champ.

Dryer would not heat up.

  • Customer: Roger from Bonners Ferry, ID
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

2 baffles fell off . the screws stipped out and drier only had one baffle left inside

  • Customer: randall from austintown, OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
take 2 phillips screws out where door meets drier. remove door, set aside. take 2 phillips screws out on other side, set screws aside. remove front of drier by pulling on top left and right sides, front of drier will fall twards front of drier. when it touches the floor lift up on bottom. set aside for later. put new baffels in (you can see where the old ones went) put screws in from bottom 5/16nutdriver. tighten. put drier front back on . start at bottom , snap top back in on both sides. put two screws back on left side, put door back on and replace 2 screws ( door will not go on wrong) test and your done...

dryer would not continuously heat, and took several cycles to dry clothes. The flame would ignite and heat the dryer at first, but then would ignite and go out quickly for the rest of the cycle. I tried the thermostats first with no luck.

  • Customer: Ryan from Livonia, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
I first ordered the coils from a different web site and they sent the wrong ones. The job would have been much eaiser if i had just returned and ordered from here. Instead i cut wires and tried the others but since they were worng, it did not work. I didn't label the wires so it was a puzzle to put it back together. Once i had the wires connected properly it was a simple fix. You just open the top and take the front pannel off, remove the drum and it is right there at the bottom. Two screws take the cover off of the coils and they slide off the gas valve. Slide the new ones on and replace the cover. Put the front pannel back on, close the top and its good to go. I first tried the highlimit thermostat, and termostat with no luck. The flame would light when it was cold, but once warmed up, the flame would ignite and immediatly go out. The coils did the trick.

Dryer would light at start and then not light.

  • Customer: Gregg from Sedro Woolley, WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I used the trouble shooting part of this site and bought the radiant flame sensor and the high limit thermostat. Installation was very easy. The original problem still persisted and then purchased the temp. control thermostat, cycling thermostat and thermal fuse. These parts installed easily as well and the problem still existed.

While using the Multimeter to determine if the gas valve coils were getting voltage during the lighting process I moved the contacts on the two wire coil and noticed that the coil would activate sporadically. As it turned out the coil had a loose connection which would contact while cool and then lose contact when the coil warmed up.

This was a tricky issue to diagnose and am now waiting for a new coil to finish the repair.

I now have an almost complete set of spare parts for electrical issues and got them at a nice price. I will keep them in the event that I might need some of them in the future.

The repair would have been easy and very straight forward thanks to this website if the actual problem hadn't been the crazy heat related bad connection in the coil. Since the flame would light during startup the coils seemed to me to be good. Actually finding a weird issue is the sort of thing I find to be the fun part of repairing things.

Thanks Parts Select ! !

Gregg heagney

Dryer was failing to dry clothes (heat going off intermittently)

  • Customer: Patricia from Oakland, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
To be more precise, the clothes weren't getting dry and there was some sort of vibration sound coming out of the dryer. I removed the front panel (by removing the 4 front screws (2 in the door and 2 on the opposite side). I then ran the dryer while inspecting the innards. I notice that the igniter was lighting but was failing to start the gas flame. I could smell a little gas during this period so I know that gas was available but was not getting released in the correct amount. This told me that the gas valve we malfunctioning. I remove the gas valve and broke the igniter (it's fragile so be careful). Some other contributer did the same thing :(
I replace both the igniter and gas valve and presto... it was fixed. My wife was impressed and I looked good. I guess that's all that matters :)

Would not heat sometimes

  • Customer: Chris from Laguna Niguel, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.

the dryer was just getting warm at best

  • Customer: catherine from victorville, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
The dryer was not getting hot the clothes we're damp and had to put on hangers to finish drying. I pulled the cover plate saw the element was glowing the gas cable would kick on had a flame for about a four to six second count. I did some checking on the web. I read about others who were having same type of problem. Order the limit part and now.the flame stays on for about twenty second or less the dryer gets hot and it drys fast. Thanks for the web site. It took about thirty minutes . Now it works great.

Dyer would not heat, flame would shut off within 10 seconds

  • Customer: Christy from Riley, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 19 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.

Brand new dryer...needed to convert to propane.

  • Customer: Timothy from Lawson, MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 24 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the directions that came with the conversion kit; which I ordered from PartSelect. Your website was the only place that could help me. Our new dryer is actually a Samsung. The people at Best Buy were no help. I called the Samsung headquarters and a "real" person there told me I could order from them or use a Whirlpool kit because they are the same. You guys were faster in getting me one, so I went with you. My wife was happy. I would recommend you to others.

The short baffle came loose and was rattling around in the dryer.

  • Customer: Melissa from Cedar Rapids, IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was easy, based on the comments from this website. I used a 6-in-1 screwdriver, and that was the only tool. I removed the two screws holding the hinges, removed the door, then the two screws on the opposite side of the opening. This allowed the front panel to come off. I spun the dryer tumbler until the baffle that was loose was at approximately 5 o'clock. I unscrewed the remaining screw and found the missing screw in the bottom of the dryer. I put those two screws into the new baffle, and popped the front back in place. I reinstalled the four screws (two opposite the hinge, then the two that hold the hinges)...all done in about 20 minutes (including vacuuming the lint out from that lower area).

Gas dryer runs, but no heat.

  • Customer: Anthony from Merritt Island, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug the dryer and remove the front panel (two screws at bottom of the panel), being careful of the door switch wires attached to the front panel. Using an ohm meter, I checked the ignitor for continuity and found it was open (should be 50-100 ohms). Make sure to check the solenoids on the gas valve. When the igniter goes bad, it will usually burn out the valve 1 solenoid boost coil (the one with 3 terminals), which was the case with my dryer. The solenoid coils are held in by a bracket with two screws (series 01 dryer) and are easy to remove and replace. Be careful replacing the igniter as the heating element is VERY fragile. Take the time to vacuum out all of the accumulated lint and dust inside the dryer while the front panel is removed, including the lint trap and duct. New igniter and boost/hold solenoid fixed the problem.

baffle in dryer broke

  • Customer: Gerald from Dunwoody, GA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
easy repair. Another person had placed a youtube video on it on how to open up the dryer to get to the baffle. Baffle purchased only came with baffle. Had to go to Ace hardware to buy screws. This travel time was 90 percent of the repair. Disappointed the package didn't come with all the parts, like screws. Screws cost me another 2.50 as had to buy 2 separate sets to see which ones were needed. Next time if you are not going to ship something that is assembled, e.g. needs screws, with screws. Let me know ahead of time.

No Heat In the Dryer.

  • Customer: Craig from San Miguel, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Let me give a little background first for those trying to diagnose their dryer issue. My dryer was turning on and running but the clothes were not drying. From everything i read I thought it was going to just be the IGNITER (part# 304970 [Partselect# PS373025]), but when I opened the dryer and watched it worked I saw that the igniter was working fine and the gas was coming on. This made me think that it is was the HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT (# 3033950 [Partselect# PS2029366]). I replaced this and got no real change other than the gas would stay on a bit longer at the start. So I replaced the other TEMPERATURE CONTROL THERMISTOR (# 3072080 [Partselect# PS2030068]) but this had no effect. I then went back to my original thought of the igniter and replaced it with no improvement. My dryer was still running and only occasionally lighting the gas to heat up the drum, the clothes would eventually dry after a much longer than normal time. After reading some other stories I decided to try the GAS VALVE WITH COILS. I ordered the part and was surprised when it arrived at my house the next day. I took out the four screws in the front panel which are accessed by opening the door to the dryer. I shut off the gas and removed the igniter to avoid any accidents with it. Unscrew the gas line from the old valve, remove two screws in bottom of unit to remove it from the dryer. Turn it over and remove two small screws to remove old valve from housing. Now take your new valve and do the opposite. Set in the housing, screw in the two small screws, place in dryer and replace two screws to hold in place. Screw gas line onto new valve and replace igniter. Turn on the gas and give it a test run. My dryer fired right and for the first time in a long time the whole dryer actually got warm.
All Instructions for the MDG5500AWW
31-45 of 794