MDE21PDDYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find where they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.

Removed Dryer Door and front face of dryer, total of 4 screws, turn dryer drum to position broken baffle screws, remove screws, install new baffle, attach front face of dryer and reattach dryer door. Time 15-30 min. total. Real easy. Thank You PartSelect. Maytag told me my part was no longer available, but I fold it at PartSelect.com.

I looked on line and found a scematic from your web site to determine how to dismantel the dryer. Once I was inside I was able to determine that the drum roller was making the noise. I decided to replace the other moving part while I was inside just in case. . . Pretty easy job

Replaced the motor with a new one from partselect per the YouTube video. Had a problem with delivery of the motor. I paid for next day delivery. FedEx picked it up and it made it to the first stop, Indianapolis ok and then stopped. After a week went by I ordered a second one. That one came as promised + 1 day so I’m satisfied. The telephone people were very well spoken and attentive to my discomfort and again I’m satisfied. The motor was at least 25% cheaper than if I bought it from Maytag so the savings is significant, about $50.

This is the dryer of a 28 year old Maytag laundry pair. I had replaced the glide kit 8-10 years before. Did them again because they were worn in half again but this time I added the 2 roller kits and the belt, really just guessing. I was surprised how full of dust and lint the inside was, especially the blower fan blades. I ordered the screw because the belt idler pulley assembly was very wobbly and I hoped that was the screw anchoring it to the motor housing was the problem but it wasn't. Turns out the threaded hole in the housing was stripped, due I guess to years of vibration. It was too tight to get a tap and dye in there so I drilled the hole out and replaced the screw with a bolt and nut and lock washer. Before drilling it out I tried a few strands of wire and JB Weld, like the trick with stripped wood holes where you break off toothpicks in the hole and fill with wood glue. But that stripped out too so I drilled and used the bolt. Turned out I didn't need that $7 screw. Probably should have known comparing it to the old one which looked the same after I cleaned it. Anyway, it sounds fine again.

The video was excellent and made for an easy repair. Would highly recommend.

The support rollers were fried, literally. I'm honestly surprised they held on. Let's just say that the "roller" part wasn't even attached to the support wheel... That bad. Because there wasn't much support there is a small tear in the metal on the back drum. The felt seal for the drum had basically been worn down to pieces. So I order two drum support rollers, two roller shafts, a new drum felt seal, and a new rib belt.

After the repair, no more squeaking, literally a huge difference, and because of there's plenty of support now for the drum, there isn't any clothes being torn. If it weren't for the videos and the parts, we would of spent hundreds of dollars on a new dryer. Instead we spent just over $100 and now our dryer is quiet and operating better than when we got it.

I removed the front of the dryer and the drum support plate. I drilled out the old rivets and installed the Glides with the enclose rivets. The Glides came loose in a few days! The holes in the glides are larger than in the old Glides. I disassembled the dryer again and reassembled with my rivets. This time I held the rivet gun inside the perimeter of the dryer so that the head of the rivet is opposite the initial installation. So far, so good, except the dryer still squeaks. The idler pulley is now the culprit. White grease burned up. I reassembled with high temperature grease. If that does not work, I will need another idler pulley. The journal looks very worn. the dryer is 30+ years old.

By watching a video I disassembled the front and took the dryer tub out and replace the two rollers and it took about 60 minute.

Followed instruction video

unplug dryer; remove dryer door; remove front cover; thermal fuse located on heater underneath and beside drum; remove two electrical leads on fuse; remove two screws holding fuse in place; install new fuse and do the above in reverse; clean lint from duct; plug dryer into

I removed the dryer door and attaching hardware to other covers. Raise the top cover and prop it up. Remove the drum retaining cover and disconnect the door switch wires, making note of their locations. Release tension on idler and take belt off of motor. Pull the drum out with belt still around it. Vacuum lint and dust from inside cabinet. Use snapring pliers and remove the snaprings on the drum rollers. Remove the old rollers and washers, clean the shafts and apply a light film of oil on the shafts. Install new rollers and plastic washers on shafts and secure with snaprings. Remove the "E" clip from the idler shaft and remove the old roller. Clean and lube the shaft and install the new idler and clip. Place the new belt on the drum with the ribs against the drum. Put the drum in place and install the front drum retainer. Position the belt around the motor pully and tensioner. Rotate the drum to get the belt to track. Attach the remaining covers.

I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.

Others have described how to remove 4 screws and remove the front panel of the dryer. The problem I saw is that some screws broke off and fell inside while others remained on the separated baffle. The old screws that I found were 1 1/4 inch. The parts manual indicates a replacement screw that is 1 inch long and a number 10 width. One set of holes for the baffles has slotted holes. It appears that wear in the paint indicates movement before breaking off. My solution to the slotted holes was to use washers on the screws and to tighten the screws in the position where any force was not going to move the screws to the center position of the slots. The force of the separation caused the slotted holes to expand.

First removed front door 2 screws holding it to frame, then removed 2 screws holding front cover panel on tilt out front panel, used vac to clean inside, removed idler arm with pully attached, replaced with new parts when I did a test run still had a llitle squeek, the drum support wheel on right looking from front making some squeeking,I went back in removed part shaft had small rust spot cleaned with jewelers cloth lubed and wiped off, no more squeek I wish I had ordered new drum wheel when I ordered idler parts, then I could have done a complete overhaul now I know more I have never worked on a dryer before the drawings on the web site heleped a lot