MDE16CSAYA Maytag Dryer - Instructions

after watching the repair video on your website I just followed the instructions. It was real easy.I re-attached one baffle, installed a new baffle and tightened the screws of the third baffle.

I did the repair has the video showed me.

I followed video, took out two screws from bottem front of dryer. removed door set a side, used a nut driver to remove the 4 nuts holding the front drum panel, I used a 1/8 drill to remove 4 pop-rivets holding what use to be front glides,I put the new glides in cork parts first then the plastic parts, than used my poprivet gun to but in the new rivets. I put it all back together and now no more holes in my underwear!!!

First I took the front of the dryer off and removed the drum (of course, after disconnecting the power supply) Removed the belt and then the roller itself. I had to open a removable port on the back side to reinstall the belt but that was also very easy. The videos made it all seem soooo simple. Thank you.

It was only "difficult" because it was the first time. The web site had good videos on how to open the dryer and access the parts. One user posted a very helpful suggestion. Although replacing the drum support rollers were highest on the suggestion list, the user suggested to also order the idler pulley wheel and bearing at the same time just in case that was the cause. I did that and sure enough, it was the idler pulley wheel that was squeaking.

I originally diagnosed as tension roller but found it to be a drum roller. Plastic had separated from the Babbitt bearing. So replaced both drum rollers and returned the tension roller. Only problem was the video was not for Maytag Neptune but a more generic dryer and I spent an extra hour try to reattach the drum belt. The video was the one that came with the email notification of part being shipped. Hook up to motor drive is backward from what the Neptune is. Eventually went looking for another video on my own and discovered the difference.

I viewed the roller replacement instruction video on the website which was very helpful since I had never replaced drum rollers. A leisurely pace of one hour to replace the two rollers, half of which was spent vacuuming the interior. Removed the front panel without tipping the dryer. Had to disconnect a ground wire to remove one bracket but otherwise only had to remove screws, slip rings and washers. No belt removal. Drum was pulled away from rollers but remained in cavity Reassembled without any problem. Ran the dryer - much quieter and no longer had the whirring noise.

Googled repair video on You Tube to assess ease of repair. Disassembled dryer front and top. Removed and replaced the above parts as well as earlier order of drum slides and drum rollers. Checked motor was working prior to reassembly. Reassembled and everything worked well once used a couple of times to allow things to stabilize.

Cleaned and greased rear drum support rollers.Fine emory cloth on roller shafts. Replaced front support glide strips. Replaced blower, retaining ring and clamp.

watched the u-tube video provided by you Part Select, very easy to follow, removed the thermostat and heating element as instructed, determined it was the thermostat and replaced it. The dryer works great. We saved alot of money thanks to Part Select.

Researched the common problem with "dryer not turning on", and tested the top three problems. Removed the dryer front casing and door, unbolted front dryer plate. Used a volt meter on two of the temp gauges, which were fine. Removed the upper back plate of the dryer to the wiring for the knobs and buttons. Used the volt meter on the dryer start button, which was also fine. Went back around to the front and removed the door switch. Tested it with the volt meter and bingo. Replaced that part, dryer works like normal.

first thing i did was look at the repair video 4 times. after that the replacement on of the guides were simple. thank you for suppling the video.

Removed old belt and installed new one by removing front panel and tub

If your dryer does not run at all consider buying the thermal fuse with the tube. It is cheap and will save time if just the heater tube does not solve the problem.

1) Unplugged dryer.

2) Removed two screws on the front of the dryer panel under the door, swung bottom out and up to remove.

3) Removed one sheet metal screw in from of heater tube holding to base of unit.

4) Removed second sheet metal screw with nut driver that holds back of heater tube in to vent twoard back of dryer.

5) Carfully disconnected wires from heating element. and turn tube to gain access to screws on left and right sides of tube. Remove sub assemblies on sides of tube for thermal fuse. Just one screw for each, and they will lift off removeing tab from slot.

6) Vacumed out all oul lint.

7) Installed new heating tube by following above steps in revers order.

Tip, watch as you connect wires back on to tube. Make sure that they connect in the same place, and connect them in an order that will not interfear with re-assembly. I always take a picture with my cell phone before I disconnect anything, or draw a picture lableing wires and colors to positions. This job is very easy, and saves hundreds of dollars!!!

After watching the video on this web-site it was very easy. I took the time while I had the drum out to vacuum out everything inside the cabinet and sprayed the sealing felts with silicone spray before re-assembling the unit. Wallah!! No 'mo' squeaks. Tommy