LW8413L2 Amana Washer - Instructions

Unhooked the idler pully spring, removed the 2 hoses from the pump outlets, unhooked the idler pulley srring to slaken the drive belt tension, removed 4 bolts from the motor mount to drop the motor, and slipped the drive belt off the transmission pulley.

Removed 3 torx screws that secure the pump. The pump was stuck to the motor motor shaft from corrosion and had to knock the pump off with a hammer. Reassembly was a breeze.

The most serious problem I had was a black widow spider lurking under the transmission pulley. Never did get it!

I removed the 4 bolts that hold the drive motor in place, then tipped the motor on it's side and removed the 3 allen screws that hold the pump in place. Then just reversed the process.

Found out that these switches go from time to time and are usually the culprit when the washer won't operate. Opened the cabinet facing. Warning: there are plenty of YouTube videos on opening Maytag washers. None helped me with this model. I ended up finding the screws to open near the floor on front. Once it's opened, just replace the faulty switch, reconnect and you're in business. Getting the washer opened was about the hardest part of this repair. Total cost: Less than $30.

Unpluged washer, turned off water supply, removed front covers, removed spring on right side to allow drum to lean over, removed the 2 hoses from pump, removed motor (4 bolts), removed 3 screws holding pump. Installed a new belt and replaced the pump. I replaced the hoses on the pump, replaced the spring, and turned on the water, plugged in the washer, turned it on and hoped for the best. Worked fine, no leaks or problems.

replaced belt that was wore out. decided to replace pump while I had washer apart.

I seemed to have a more difficult time changing the pump out than others who had left their instructions on line prior to me.
What I has to do is remove the 4 bolts that secured the motor & mount to the frame. I then unplugged the wire harness from the motor leads.
I removed the belt tensioning spring & removed the belt.
I then removed the motor, motor mount and pump assembly. Turned it upside down & removed the pump. When installing the new pump you will need to remember how the belt was routed. A local parts house actually gave me a xeroxed schematic that showed me how to route it. A real life saver.
After that I turned the assembly right side up, bolted the mount into place, installed the new belt onto the large flywheel, attached the belt tension spring, plugged in the wiring harness and ran a rinse cycle. No leaks. Good as new.
Yes. It took a little longer than expected. But it was alot cheaper than having a service man do it.

I was at work but a friend of ours and my husband did the repair. But what I was impressed about is how fast we got the part. thanks a lot

Wow! My husband and I researched the problem online and ordered the part after reading from others how to take the machine apart. We are very unhandy, so we felt quite an accomplishment fixing the drain hose with rubber elbow ourselves! Thank you for the diagrams that so clearly showed the part we needed to order.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

We did not have instructions on how to remove broken agitator. Looking online, we found easy instructions but found it difficult to remove the agitator even though it was supposed to be an easy task.
Our particular model was supposed to "pop" off with little resistance. Not so!
It took some stong muscle and will power to remove the part but putting the new agitator on was simple.

remove front cover disconnect water supply remove hose clamp,take drain line replace with new hose reconnect water supply replace front cover job complete.

Since the agitator and bell housing seperated as once piece from the drive shaft I didn't have to remove them and the schematic showed how the agitator snapped on to the bell housing and the parts I needed for the fix. The new seal went on with no problem, I just used some of the supplied grease on the tight spots. The hardest part was attaching the bell housing. It came to within an inch of the top of the shaft with no problem with a rubber hammer. But the top screw shroud broke when I tried to hammer it the rest of the way using a wood dowel and a block of wood. I couldn't even get the threads of the supplied screw to even touch the drive shaft. So I bought a longer (1 inch) cap screw from the hardware store and added a washer and suplied ring. After torqing it to 5 ft-lbs instead of the 10-20 the plastic beneath the screw was looking kind of thin and stressed and I was afraid of it breaking through or the screw snapping off in the shaft, so I left it alone and used some silicone caulk to seal in the plug that goes in on top of the screw since the side of the shroud broke off. I slipped on the agitator and am testing a load now as we speak. If I get ten more years out of the washer it will definitely be worth the $100 in parts and shipping !

First - I did some research on line as to the possible problem with this dryer.
I had already taken the front apart before, so I knew what was needed to remove the door and front.
Remove the 2 screws that hold the dryer door in place with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the two screws on the opposite side of the door also. Place the door out of the way. The front panel of the dryer now tilts forward. The front panel sits on two clips, tilt forward and lift out of place. The door switch has two prongs that hold it in place, pinch the prongs and the switch slides out. Disconnect the two wires on the switch and connect the wires to the new switch. The new switch slides into place. I tested the new switch before I put it all back together. Took me no longer than 15 minutes.

Unplugged washer, turned water valves off, disconnected water lines from washer with adjustable channel-lock wrench. Water inlet valve was mounted on its own plate that needed removed using a screw driver. Disconnected the electric sensors and disconnected the outlet hose. Valve had to be taken off the mounting plate with a nutdriver. Replaced valve and reconnected everything. Water pumped in 10 times faster.

Disconnected wire harness. Loosened belt by slipping off main pulley. Removed motor/pump assembly (easy so far). Had some difficulty separating pump off motor shaft. Shaft had rusted into the plastic pump socket. Cleaned shaft with sandpaper. Reassembly with new belt and pump was easy.