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Small spring in the lid switch broke
I removed the two screws holding the switch and removed it from the machine. I then removed the broken spring and replaced it with the new one sent to me from partselect.com. I reinstalled the repaired switch and turned on the machine. It was easy as that and it works great. PartSelect.com is the best.
Stripped Threads on Water Inlet Valve caused massive leak
For safety, UNPLUG THE MACHINE FROM ELECTRICITY. First I pulled off the silver cover from the back of the machine by the existing Water Inlet Valve. Of course I had to unscrew the two screws holding it in place, first. I then unplugged the two electronic connectors, careful to note which was hot and which was cold. Then I used my pliers to pry the metal clasp loose from the rubber hose which held the inlet valve into place. It was a pain in the but, but that's all I had to use. I also used the pliers to loosen the clasp again so I could jame my replacement inlet valve from partselect into the hose. Now I put the electronic connectors back on. And then set the metal cover back into place and screwed it on tight. Now I put teflon tape on the new threads and screwed on my new water hoses. Worked like a charm. Not a bad deal--about 45 bucks for the part plus overnight shipping to fix a washer/dryer combo I just purchased for 150 bucks from a lady who was moving!
Disconnected the hoses , power cord, and the drain hose. Tipped the washer on it's front panel and removed the old belt and spun the new one on. Tested for tightness as per the instructions and sat the washer up and hooked everything up. Total time---5-10 minutes. Local appliance dealer insisted this wasn't the belt we needed. Thanks to your website we easily selected the right one. Thanks.
Removed clip that held timer knob in place, replaced timer know with new one and reinstalled clip. The snapped on the new cap. Took a whole minute to do.
Followed the first guys directions. remove front lift top remove agitator remove locking nut clockwise remove inner tub remove Mounting S loosen set screw and clockwise also clean well replace boot as shown in tip in sheet push boot on completely
Fill Injector Broke - A mouse may have contributed
I opend up the housing, found the broken part, ordered it, installed it, and had the washer working within 4 days of the initial break down. Saved a lot of money over a service call, as well as time, and trips to the laundramat.
Replace power cord that had burned from a small fire
I removed top control panel and then the old power cord that been damaged by a small fire and the just attached the new power cord and control panel. Unblievably simple and I saved myself a lot of money. Where I live in a NYC suburb this type of simple repair could easily cost $100.
Loosened the set screw and removed the agitator, found nothing wrong. Replaced the agitator and tightened set screw, no more wobble. This is a mid 1970 Maytag and a workhorse.Had three kids wash over the years, now "kids" in their late 30's and early 40' and washer is as good as new (except a little rusty)
First time I had a problem with it. Sometimes just look for the simple things !
Part select refunded me for my part that I ordered very fast.
Unplug washer and shut off water valves. Remove water hoses from the faucets and caught the water in the hoses in a bucket. I removed the drain hose from the back of the washer and caught the water in the bucket. Remove front panel by removing 2-screws at bottom and tilting it out to come off. Disconnected the hoses to the pump and caught most of the water in the bucket.. An old towel stuffed under the bottom pan of the washer, under the pump hole caught most of the rest of the water. Tip the washer on its back and removed the belt coming from the motor. Removed 3-screws that hold the pump on and angled the pulley end through the hole in the bottom of the washer. I just reversed the procedure to install the new pump and everything else. I would have replaced the hoses and belts, but I had just done that about a couple of years ago, when I replaced the connector at the top back of the washer for the hose from the pump and hose to the drain in the wall, that had a crack in it and was leaking.
Since my missus keeps her appliances like new, it behoves us to buy something of good quality when new. We did that. Now, after almost 20 years, the washer complained it needed new belts, which I complied. Tilted it up against the wall after pulling power cord. Removed both belts and replaced. Adjusted pump belt by loosening pump and then retightening. This is easy to get to by removing front (removing 2 philips screws). Piece of cake.
key to repair is to watch the video on mounting stem/tub seal as seen thru parts select. However, they use a nice new, clean,sanitized washer that may not reflect a 23 year old washer like mine. They give you the basics and it is invaluable to watch if you have never done this before. I strongly advise you buy a real spanner wrench made for your make. You may never need it again but it makes it much easier. Trying to use a punch or using a dremmel to operate on your large 'nuts' is, well, nuts! Get the wrench, just part of the cost of repair. See ebay. The first thing I noticed different between the video and my real life unit is the water hose connected to the washer, at the top of the tub cover. This did not exist in the video, but it is the way on my unit. So I did not disconnect it, just folded the top out of the way and tied it up. Then of course my real gripe with the video is that I have the old time band around the tub and the barrell, holding them together. They do not mate up very well and are not easy to put back together properly. In fact, installing the stem seals was easy and it fixed the original leak. I might add when you buy the replacement parts, you actually get 3 new parts. I suggest you use all the new parts in the package. You paid for them, you need them. Again the video only talks about replacing the very bottom seal, never mentioning the other parts they sold you in the bag. It is easy to figure out how to replace the other parts, they look like the ones you took off to get to the very bottom seal. Use all the new parts, regardless. So the only real issue is putting the band back on to hold the tub to the drum. We did not get it correct the first time and the unit would not spin, I had the top down too far. You could smell the rubber burning from the drive belt. They forgot to tell us about that!! Bums. So we loosened up the band, raised up the top piece and got it to spin. Of course, we did a large load, filled the water to the highest level allowed and when the unit hit the spin cycle, we got a leak from under the band. Thx video. To fix that we decided to never use the highest water level. So far so good. I can tell you the engineers failed on the design to mate up the cover to the tub. Other than that this can be done by us goobers, just take your time. And good luck. I must also thank my helper, neighbor John . for his added wisdom and support.
befor start i make sure whether i can repair or not.then i order the part which is fit with what i wont to repair.by checking siriel number . then repairng is very easy.
Followed the directions posted by another user. His tips were very important and helpful. At first we only ordered parts where it was leaking, then decided we might as well change the remaining parts as recommended by the other user in his description. This is the FIRST issue we have had in 19 years of use. Ordered the parts, received them quickly and correctly. Installed them and it works like a new machine. This Maytag will probably last another 19 years.
