LAT8106AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

old agitator stripped plastic splines.
pulled up and out old agitator, aligned and pushed (hard) down new agitator, tightened nut.
easy-squeezy!

Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.

Cleaned up a wet utility room floor!

Unplugged power cord to the machine and turned off hot and cold water at the stop valves.
Removed the top machine screw that holds the metal panel with the valve attached (on the rear of the machine where hoses attach), removed it from the machine with valve and hoses attached.
Disconnected both water hoses at the old valve, together with the 1/2" hose to the machine. Mark hot and cold positions.
Moved the electrical contacts one-by-one to the new valve.
Changed the old valve for the new valve (one screw attaches to plate).
Connected the inlet hoses and 1/2" hose to the new valve, making sure hot/cold on correct positions.
Replaced plate in the machine and secured with the machine screw.

*** NO MORE WADING SINCE REPAIR *****

I was told that it might be a clog in the tube.. we check the tubes that wasn't it Then I Google it and was told it might be the drain pump. I was just glad that Part Select had what I need because my machine is over 20 years old. We change the pump and now I hope I get at least another 20 years out of my machine. I will always use part select to get my parts. Thanks

After first unplugging the washer and shutting off the water to the washer I slid the washer away from the wall. It was a tight cramped space and difficult to get behind it. Most of the time replacing the water inlet valve was spent getting into and out of the work area to get tools and cleaning up a few years of dirt under the washer and water leaking from the hoses after they were removed. The valve removal and re-installation of the new one was pretty straightforward.Just a 3 screws 2 electrical connectors and three hoses. The water inlet hoses were frozen on the old valve and required a wrench to free. I also needed to replace the hose washers which fortunately I had as spares for my garden hoses. I replaced the solenoid leads directly from the old to new valve so as not to get that wrong. Removing the outlet hose clamp was tricky- I needed a fat wrench to depress all the tines and slip it off. Fortunately I was able to reuse it. After securing the mounting screws and tightening the inlet hoses with a wrench just until I met some resistance, I turned the power and water back on and prayed there were no leaks. None- back in business.

A 5/16 socket on a ratchet was used to loosen a screw. Remove the agitator from the splined shaft by pulling straight up. Slide the new agitator onto the splined shaft and tighten the new supplied screw.

Unplugged washer, turned off water supply,Removed the screws in back of console. removed. back plate, unplugged lid switch from console. removed screws holding console to frame of machine. Removed lid by prying the bottom corners out freeing the hinge ball on either side. unscrewed the lid switch from the frame of machine. installed the new plunger screwed into place aligned with lid switch snapped new switch in place, plugged in to console. put screws back into console and put back plate back on turn water supply on plugged in washer started washer which is now working . and the repair guy who never showed up wanted to charge me 50. diagnostic fee when I told him itwas the switch. it cost me less than 50 for all the parts. if you can read you can do

Unfortunately, I couldn't find instructions for removing the top for exactly this model. First step was to remove the front panel by removing the two lower screws, grabbing the bottom of the panel, and lifting up until the clips on top of the panel let go. Next was removing from underneath the two screws towards the front that held the top of the washer on. This gives you easy access to the Fill Injector, but if working alone you'll need something to prop up the front of the top lid while you work on it. There is one screw that hold on the Fill Injector assembly (top and bottom). This screw is removed from the top, via the control panel. To get inside the control panel you need to remove the back of the control panel (very easy), just unscrew the 5 screws on the back of it. Then remove the one screw that holds the Fill Injector assembly in place. From under the front panel, use your pliers to remove the hose clamp and then remove the Fill Injector from the hose. ONE IMPORTANT ITEM, YOU'LL DEFINITELY NEED A REPLACEMENT HOSE CLAMP. The one you remove to take off the old, broken fill injector cannot be put back on. Put the new clamp loosely on the hose, then connect the hose to the new Fill Injector Assembly. Put the Fill Injector Assembly in place and use a piece of duct tape to hold it there. Then reinstall the screw that holds it in place from the top, inside the control panel. Reinstall everything in reverse, give it a test and then have a beer. You've just "given it to the man" and saved yourself $100+ on a repair bill.

I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.

Drum on the Maytag washer was not spinning is a true rotational pattern. Adjust or replace the centering springs.

How-to-description
I had to hack saw off the centering springs eye bolts since they were rusty and not adjustable. If you have to cut the old eye bolts as I had to, be careful... the spring will jump up an inch or two very quickly and you want to keep your hands clear. It makes a load noise and my wife asked "what happened". Not a big deal, just be aware of the spring returning to a normal state.
Place the new eye bolts in position and tighten the nut with 4 turns. With duck tape I held the eye bolts in place from under the machine. Had my son push the drum towards the replaced spring to shorten the length of the end of the spring to the eye bolt. Stretch the new springs with a long screw driver, one end against the washer body, and the other end near the handle. Pulled down on the scrw driver until the spring can hook onto the eye bolt. Before cutting the old eye bolts I measured the length of the eye bolt from the spring to the frame. Adjust the new eye bolts to the same length after the spring is stretch onto the eye bolt. Overall a simple project, cost $40 for me and the best advice is using the long screw driver to pull down on the springs.

Determined the tub seal was bad and ordered the seal and tub bearing. Removed the front cover with two phillips screws and unbolted the top to lift back. Removed the agitator with 1/4" setscrew on side and lifted out. Using punch and hammer, broke the inner tub nut loose (clockwise is off). Lifted out the inner tub, unscrewed springs from the bottom and removed; then removed the bearing with a little prying (had to raise the tub slightly and tap the center splined shaft to push out) and lifted out the outer tub. Outer tub had few rust spots about to penetrate, so sanded off rust, primed with etching auto primer and sprayed enamel topcoat to prevent further corrosion. Reassembled in the same order.

When done, there was still a loud noise on the spin cycle, so obtained a spin bearing and brake assembly (need to replace both most always). Tilted the machine on its back and removed the pulley, then put a special wrench on the brake assembly and broke loose (counterclockwise) with a 3 foot extension after placing a 2x4 section in the tub between wall and one of the bases for the spring arms (to keep the tub from turning). When the brake came off it was full of water and corroded from the leaking tub bearing previously replaced. Reassembled in reverse order and replaced two belts on the bottom for good measure. Works perfectly now and is very quiet.

In my estimation, the repair should have included both the tub bearing/seal and the spin bearing/brake assy from the outset. Could have used a chain visegrip wrench instead of special tool to remove the brake assy - whatever is available. The tool costs a lot and will never be used again.

Put blocks under the washer where the leveling leg was needed and screwed the part into the washer. Then it was just a matter of moving the washer into place and leveling. Pretty easy.

The trouble-shooting section on this website described the above problem and suggested that the proper course of action was to replace the water inlet valve, which I ordered and replaced. Replacement of this part was quick and easy.

removed old pully, put new one on with hex driver, removed belts, put new belts on and finished.

My washer filled up and wouldn't drain at all.

I tried checking the fuses, then read that the belt could be broken or worn. I checked under the hood and the belt was broken right in two. I drained the washer manually then ordered the new belt.

I was able to replace the belt in no time with no effort at all.