LAT5006AGE Maytag Washer - Instructions

I looked at the machine diagram on the website and removed the screw on the bottom and lifted up the from panel which allowed me to have easier access to the fill injector. Then I removed the back panel off of the control panel on the top of the machine and removed the screw that held the fill injector in place, attached the new fill injector using the hose clamp I ordered with the part ( you need a new hose clamp because the other one is useless after you remove the old injector). Tightend up the screw to hold the injector in place and replaced the back panel and front panel. It was an easy repair and only cost $28.00 with shipping. I easily saved $150.

Took off the upper back that had 6 screws with a screw driver. Found the lid switch . Removed it after I figured out how to remove it. It was a little tricky without instructions. Putting in the new switch was a little tricky also. You have to angle the front of the switch in, pop it in and then push it back so it can snap in. Once I put it in, the washer started right up. I was very happy. Instructions would have been very helpful. I am very pleased with this company because I received my switch in a couple of days. I will definitely use this company again.

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.

I removed the top cover that has the controls .Then started to voltage check the circuit (diagram was inside top cover) starting from L1 (had power cord pluged in) noted power was not going through the Check switch after tapping on the switch it started to work. the switch was intermitent so replaced with a new one from your company. works good now .Greg Gran

It would seem that my unhappy washer decided to
have a multiple component breakdown. after replacing one part after another, my baby runs like new. parts arrived quickly and installed easily, it was all the diagnostic that took the most time. the forums were quite helpful.

Pulled the switch assembly cover off. Removed the screws that held the lid switch assembly on and replaced the assembly.
I just want to say that the online exploded view of the parts list was very helpful. I really needed pictures and your website had them. Also the service delivered my part very swiftly and ordering was easy. If I ever need appliance parts again I will order them from your website.

I found the electrical prints in the control panel. I found the door and check switch, and used my volt meter to determine which one was bad. It was the check switch, so I went online with PartSelect and ordered what I needed.

I had the model and serial numbers. So it was really easy to find the replacement part. It arrived in just days after I ordered. We are back in business. Thank you for your service, John Gamble, Marysville, Ohio

This job turned out to be alot easier than I thought thanks to the tips I received on the web site. First I removed the agitator with a small nut drive I believe it was 1/4". Than I removed the two screws holding on the lid and lofted it out of the way. This is where the Hammer drill comes in. I had read someone else had used WD40 to help break free the threads and get the retaining ring off the tub it self. I worked on this for about 20 minutes with lube and trying to tap it off with the hammer and tap method. Finally I looked over and sitting there on the self next to the washer was my hammer drill. It can't be any worse than banging on the thing with the hammer. (They proably don't reccomend) but with a straight tip and a couple of quick shots the gaint nut came right off. I will say that my washer being older I could barely even tell where the threads were so I figured why not. It worked great. I then took the tub ring(plastic) at the top off and removed tub. Again a couple of quick shots with the hammer drill and the ring came right off. I did spend a little time making sure everything was clean and then reassembled machine with no more leaks. It may sound strange but it worked great with no fighting the space constraints, the calcium buildup and no damage to machine. If it doesn't work get a bigger hammer. Good luck

after checking obvious reasons (plugged in, breakers,) i took off control panel cover and saw that the fuse was blown, replaced it, plugged back in and it worked. After 1st wash was done, again it didnt work and the fuse was blown. I followed the wires from the fuse and they led to the lid check switch,which had a char mark leading me to beleive it was fried. I checked for continuity with an ohm meter(after disconnecting the power of course) and got no reading after pushing in the red button on the switch.I googled maytag replacement part and Partselect came up.Easy to understand ordering, and $20(including shipping,2 days later and about a half hour install, my machine was running

Changed lid switch. The hardest part was to remove the old switch. Wire connectors were very tight on the connection tabs of the old switch. Just out of curiosity, I did take the switch base plate apart just to see what the lid lever looked like underneath and how the adjustment worked.

Based upon my research on line and my 'hunch' I ordered the Lid Safety Switch for this old Maytag Washer. Got the part in good time and it was very well packaged. After having some difficulty in removing the one nut that held the old switch in place I installed the new switch, plugged it in and was delighted to hear the washer working like the old days. Now I have many, many loads of clothes to catch up on.

Removed the cover on top raised control panel at back of machine. Checked fuse, then lid switch which were okay. Checked Check-lid switch which was bad. Ordered and replaced. I always take pics with cell phone before removing anything to see position, wire colors, etc. Only difficult because of location on check-lid switch. Hard to reach even with right angle screwdriver. Had to bend some of the metal housing above the switch to get screwdriver in there.

Followed above listed advice on replacing

Remove the rear panel covering the control panel. Remove the two screws on each side of the upper control panel. The top removes with gentle (or not so gentle) taps toward the front of the washer. Lift the upper away but be careful of the attached wires. Top must be removed or switch cannot be removed as it cannot pass the cycle selector. Note the wire positions and colors to the switch assembly, remove them, and loosen the screw holding the switch assembly in place. Tilit assembly up like opening a book and lift up and away from the washer being careful of the lid switch actuator below. Replace with new assembly, making sure actuator is positioned to activate switches, and reattach the same screw. Reattach wires to appropriate places, replace top control panel and reattach screws, replace rear panel.

Replaced the air tube, existing one had been chewed by mice was easy to replace and solved the issue