KUDY25SHWH1 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Was able to replace and repair without taking the dishwasher out. Thermostat is behind and to the left of the power junction box. Has 2 wires going to it. It is up against the bottom of tub. I used an angled mirror to see what I was doing. 1 small screw to detach and pull down thermostat. Be sure power is off before you start. Also reprogrammed defaults. Hit any button 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3, fast and close door. Let it sit 15 min to run and re-set defaults. Now I have heat and dry dishes.

Remove power, either unplug the unit or locate and turn off the circuit breaker. There is power under the dishwasher even if it is not running.

Use the nut driver to remove both lower panels to gain access to the bottom of the dishwasher.

I suspected the overflow switch and used the ohm meter to discover the resistance of the switch, with no water in the washer, measured anywhere from a couple of ohms to 40 ohms or more and of course it should be less than one ohm.

There was no sign of any leakage or other problem so I wanted to keep the job simple and replace only the actual micro switch.

Problem! The micro switch is mounted on the back side of the float stem kit and visibility is severely limited. About all you can see are the switch terminals and the head of the phillips screw that holds the microswitch on the rest of the float stem kit.. You'll definitely need a small mirror.

I first pulled the wires from the microswitch terminals. Then I used a small phillips screw driver to remove the screw holding the switch and the first thing that happened is the small white float lever fell out. (I didn't know that it was even there because of the poor visibility. Ugly surprise!)

I spent 1/2 hour or more studying how the lever went in and found that the cirular end of the lever fits into a circular depression in the assembly body and was HELD IN BY THE SWITCH. (Now it's really getting ugly!)

The problem then is how to get the lever back in place and have it stay there while placing the micro switch back in place. There just isn't any easy way to do that. If only the switch and lever were one piece it would have been so simple.

Aha!

I placed and aligned both the lever and the microswitch on the float assembly body that I received. Using a couple of small pieces of electricians tape I taped the microswitch and lever together so they were one piece. Then I carefully (very carefully) removed the switch/lever
"assembly" that I made and eased it into position onto back side of the dishwasher float stem assembly body. When the switch is almost in place there is just barely room to get the tip of your finger in there and seat the rounded end of the lever into the depression. After seating the lever, carefully replace and tighten the phillips screw holding the switch in place. Then remove the electricians tape.

Replace the wires on the micro switch terminals, replace the front panels, put your tools away, and by golly, you're done.

This repair is not for the faint-hearted nor for those with fat fingers or who tend to be klutsy. It took me three or four attemps and a couple of hours to get the microswitch and float lever into place. But I think it was worth it as I didn't have to remove the dishwasher, play with water lines, or remove the full float assembly thus avoiding creating other problems that might likely result in water leaks and additional repairs..

If you decide to try this repair, good luck. It can be done but it is tough.

One day the door came slaming down. Pulled off the bottom two panels and noticed a broken spring. For the small investment I purchased two new springs and replaced both while I was down there.

1) Pulled off the bottom two panels
2) Took note of location of where the springs were and removed the old springs.
3) With my fingers found the holes and placed new spring on the door side.
4) With some muscle stretched the spring untill it joined the multiple tension slots on the frame of the washer.
5) Found the correct tension to suppt the door opening and closing properly.
6) Replaced the two bottom panels
7) Cleaned up and was done!

Thank you partselect for your great web help!

Took off the front cover and scraped out soap deposits - probably consequent to wash water not being hot enough. Replaced the lower seal - used some automotive weatherstrip seal to cement it in place. Loosened the door per instruction sheet and replaced the water deflectors on each lower corner. Probably took me longer since I'm 81 years old and don't get up and down as well as I once did. Insulated the hot water tube so wash water is hotter than before. Works pretty good.

replaced the fuse in the door

Took 6 screws off to disassemble the control panel, removed the electonics, removed and ordered handle, and replaced it.

Smooth.

all I had to do was snap the plastic piece in.
thanks, great experience.

1) Removed the two white clips from the left and righ hand side of the top tray roller rail. this allows the tray to be completely removed and ease access to the washer assembly. The clipe looks like the letter "k", so you will need to close the "k" to almost straight line in order to get it through the hole.

2) Put a sheet or a towel at the bottom of the machine, just incase you drop the two small cross head screws. This prevents the screws from falling to the bottom of the machine.

3) Remove the screws. At this time the washer assembly will/should slip out very easily. very little force is required to pull the assmbely out.

4) Slip on the new washer assembly and put the screws back in place. Tighten screws, Be careful not over tighten the screw as you may crack the plastic flange.

Note: My machine is an older model, so the washer assembly had two screw fixing. The new assembly only had one hole. Although one fixing appeared to be sufficient, I decided to drill a hole on the other side and this worked fine.

5) Replace the top tray, taking some care to ensure rollers are correctly located within the rails. Then replace the clips and job's complete.

Contrary to info on your website, the bezel is removed by turning it counterclockwise. This misinformation wasted a lot of time. The bezel is difficult to turn. I used a home-built wrench: drive two screws spaced 3 inches apart through a stick of wood, projecting 5/8 inch. Engage the screws in the slot in the bezel and in the grill, and turn ccw. I cleaned the deposits from the surface where the gasket seals with white vinegar. New gasket and bezel fixed the problem.

We were told by a repair guy to buy a new dishwasher-about a $900+ cost to replace. Then a local parts place and Sears each quoted us $85 for the part plus $129 to come out. Found your website and bought the part for $17. Also bought a hard rubber gasket that fits on the bottom of the door for $8. The brackets that came with that last part were the hardest to install, but the gaskets took 15 minutes. We did glue another strip of the long door gasket along the area under the door lip. Works great! Saved over $800. You rock!

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I read the instuctions and snapped it together just following the pictures...reading only when the picture was not enough information for me. My husband thought I pulled it out of the box already put togethr, he did not know I put it together.

Replaced the lower washer arm retaining nut,bearing ring.and seal in about 3 min.The retaining nut had broken off inside - make sure to remove the broken piece-I used needle nose pliers.
The dispenser took about 35 mins. Removed all the screws around the inside of the door and removed panel.Removed screws holding the dispenser and replaced.I took time to give the dishwasher a good cleaning(inside edge).
Now my wife is happy.

Plastic parts on this Kitchenaid dishwasher suffer repeat wear problems from heat and chemical detergents. The retainer nut on the bottom wash arm split horizontally int the thread area, and during operation, the wash arm would rise up and hit the bottom of the lower basket so there was a worn groove in the wing on top of the nut and the dishes weren't getting very clean. Simple replacement, just screw the nut down. Also decided to replace the bearing ring right under the wash arm because it was getting pasted with white crust-like material from hard water and chemical detergent residues. I've dealt with PartSelect twice now, and they are fast and efficient. The online parts breakdowns are easy to follow.

remove the lower arm and pieces.. get the parts stacked in the right order and hand screw the retainer nut... done! I decided to spend a little more and replace the whole washer arm and I'm glad I did. My dishes are coming out clear then they have in years!! Ordered the parts Thurs morning... thought i might get a load or two done but when I opened the washer on friday it was obvious I was facing a weekend of teens having to handwash dishes! 15 minutes later the doorbell rang and there were the parts!! Woo Hoo!!