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PartSelect Number PS356593
NOTE: This part requires a silicon sealant for installation.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Replaced lower door seal kit per directions without success. Upon further diagnosis, I noticed the rubber section of the water tube (a seperate part in older models) had melted or burned or tore a ragged strip lengthwise in it. I purchased and installed the manifold spray arm kit ps382824 and because it was inexpensive I also got the wash arm bearing ring ps402231. I replaced all of these parts. . A very simple process if done one piece at a time. This spray arm kit comes with an upper spray arm, a water supply tube, a screw, and two holding clips. After these components were replaced the water no longer leaks. In order of most to least important in my situation. The wash arm bearing had actually worn off the shoulder and looked more like a cylindrical bushing or I than a cross section l. This component and the water tube were the most important parts. The door seal isn't a water proof gasket type of part it's more of a plastic splash shield. Good luck. . It can be done. . And it's worth the money and tme. Overall this is a good unit.
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Replaced the bottom door seal. Found the job to be very easy. Just slide the bottom seal off, slide the new seal on, and it fixed the leaky problem.The part was shipped immediately making the total experience worth while.
!. I read the directions2. Unplugged the dishwasher and removed the racks3. I took off the 2 bottom panels and unhooked springs4. I bent outward the tabs holding the door rod(A little difficult to get them bent far enough to remove the door)5. pulled the door up and out of the bent tabs6. Pulled out the old gaskets and replaced them with the new gaskets (I soaped the door one with liquid detergent)7. Replaced the door etc and it does not leak!
Directions were somewhat generic, but clear enough to figure out that I had to remove the toe plate and front cover below the main door to disconnect the two springs that held the door in tension. I then removed the old door seal (really a splash guard), and scraped off some scum. Then I pried apart a metal tab on each side of the door to facilitate lifting up on the two hinge rods on the door to get to the two corner water diverter pieces that really keep the water in the dishwasher. These two pieces deteriorate over time like the splash guard. The reverse assembly process was simple, NO LEAKS.
all I had to do was snap the plastic piece in.thanks, great experience.
Took off the front cover and scraped out soap deposits - probably consequent to wash water not being hot enough. Replaced the lower seal - used some automotive weatherstrip seal to cement it in place. Loosened the door per instruction sheet and replaced the water deflectors on each lower corner. Probably took me longer since I'm 81 years old and don't get up and down as well as I once did. Insulated the hot water tube so wash water is hotter than before. Works pretty good.
Install was very easy. Used hands, pliers to pull out old gaskets. Wiped down old dirt in track. Started from (top) middle of door frame and used some soap with warm water to insert new gaskets. That's it! Kept old plastic brackets in place because it was too difficult to remove door springs. Old door seal and lower door seal were badly worn (gummy and falling apart) - Thought that was the issue with the water leaking. Nope, I was wrong. Looks like the tub seal, and the plastic bearing that is under the spray arm. Going to buy new instead of diving in the money pit. 10 years old, motor corroded from water over the years.
This was my third attempt at fixing the problem. First I tried the bushing under the lower spray arm. This worked for me a few years ago but not this time. I then replaced the door gasket with no luck. I just discovered another bushing that has worn paper thin between the lower spray arm and the nut that holds it. I ordered it and hopefully that will do the trick. I read that if the spray arm wobbles it creates waves in the tub that slop over the edge.
The lower door seal had fallen out as it was worn out so I wasn't sure of the proper orientation of the new seal or even where it went as the instructions had nothing about the seal. A little bit of logical thinking and the seal just just snapped in place. The door drains that came with the kit were both a right or left hand and so I didn't install them. Turns out that I didn't need the new ones anyway. The old door seal just pulled out and the new one just pushed into place. I was careful to center the top of the strip so that it would come out even at both sides of the bottom. There were no instructions for the door seal but none were needed. As long as I was working on the washer I did some cleaning to make it look new and bright...that took the most time. Easy repair and a happy wife besides.
We were told by a repair guy to buy a new dishwasher-about a $900+ cost to replace. Then a local parts place and Sears each quoted us $85 for the part plus $129 to come out. Found your website and bought the part for $17. Also bought a hard rubber gasket that fits on the bottom of the door for $8. The brackets that came with that last part were the hardest to install, but the gaskets took 15 minutes. We did glue another strip of the long door gasket along the area under the door lip. Works great! Saved over $800. You rock!
Just removed old seal and put the new on in place no problem
I removed the door gasket first by sliding it out.Then I pulled the door seal out. It suggested removing the springs,very hard to find and do, so we left them in place and did not use two parts of the kit because they were still good. Putting in the door seal was a bit tricky because we had to use something to push it into the groove.That was the reason for the credit card. It was easier to push it into groove rather than doing it with a screw drive for fear of punacturing a hole in the rubber gasket. It worked well. Then we kept checking to see if the door shut properly, It was tight at first, but seemed a little better after adjusting the seal a bit.No leaks after that.
The part, although identified as for the model we have, did not fit. Phone calls were made to Iowa and Georgia with the final finding that the part was made and never tested to be sure that it fit the dishwasher. Ended up repairing the old seal and reinstalling. Overall this process took one day to troubleshoot, one day for repair and drying, and less than 15 minutes to install.
Bent back metal ears over door hinge pins, released door springs from door hinges. Lifted door off of hinges and replaced corner drain back seals and lower door seal.Still leaks so obviously I have another issue or the door seal is lousy quality. I've completed this project before and never had another issue for 6 years.
replaced door seal,lower door seal and wash arm bearing ring-now it leaked when it was running.put old door seal back in and no leaks. all it needed was the wash arm bearing, also I cleaned out the inside of the water level float,which lowered the water level in the bottom of the dishwasher.
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