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KUDS01FLSS6 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for KUDS01FLSS6 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KUDS01FLSS6
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Glasses in the top shelf had food bits - not rinsing well

  • Customer: Clifford from Centennial, CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 49 of 57 people found this instruction helpful
The most difficult part of this was figuring out the problem was with the middle spray arm - that it was not spinning (and thus not rinsing the top dishes). I could spin it by hand fine - but if I watched its position while the machine was running (open/close the door) I saw it wasn't moving. I took out the top shelf (with spray arm attached) and connected it to the garden hose. I could see then that the arm was sagging and hitting the rear connection, preventing it from spinning. To replace I removed the plugs from the top shelf side-rails (bend the rail open with your thumb and tip the plugs out of the rail to the right for the left rail, to the left for the right rail. this is easier than pulling them out the end of the rail). Slide out the top shelf. Turn over, remove the phillips screw and pull off the manifold, and middle spray arm. Replace with the new parts. I also replaced the top spray arm (which was very loose, and probably not spraying well because it was so loose). For this I unclipped the top feed tube and pulled off the old sprayer. Put a towel in the bottom rack of the washer so you don't drop the little pieces into the pump below. The top spray arm simply snaps in with the two connectors (the pointy one attaches through the feed tube).

Top rack not cleaning the dishes properly.

  • Customer: Ben from Lake Zurich, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 48 of 54 people found this instruction helpful
I first thought I may have a defective water feed tube that runs from the bottom of the dishwasher tub aolng the back to the top. This is what the top rack sprayer plugs into to get water.

This was easily replaced by uncliping the feed tube by the two clips, one on the top of the tub and one in the back. You then give the feed tube a twist clockwise about 45 degree (relative to the bottom of the dishwasher). This will remove the feed tube and bottom sprayer.

However, this didn't fix the issue.

I then replaced the pump/motor. This is done by uninstalling the dishwasher and flipping it onto it's back so you can look at the bottom of the dishwasher. There is an electrial connector on the right side that needs to be disconnected. The motor is help on by one bolt in the back and a socket wrench with extender will be needed to get to it. Once the bolt is removed, and motor needs to be twisted about 45 degress so it feels "loose". Then you need to pull straight down and the motor will come off.

Just reverse all the steps to install the new motor.

But that didn't fix the issue either.

Come to find out, the problem I was having was the grinder screen was so gummed up with paper, the grinder broke and water was not getting through the screen. Here is how you replace the grider (which was the true fix to the problem).

- Remove the feed tube like I listed above. You DO NOT need to uninstall your dishwasher.

- Use a Torx driver to remove the three visible bolts on the bottom of the washer tub.

- Pull up on the plastic piece you just removed the screws to remove it.

- Use a smaller sized Torx driver to remove the one screw from the Grinder plate. Once you have the screw off, use a pair of pliers to pull straight up on post sticking straight up on the grinder housing.

-You can now see the grinder. Pull the screen and grinder assembly out. If it is still intact, just clean it and replace it back into its groove. If it is in pieces, it is destroyed and buy a new one.

- Reverse all the steps to put the dish washer back together.

This screen that fits into the groove was jammed up with paper and was causing my my issues. Once I placed this the macine worked great.

Dishwasher not responding.

  • Customer: William from North Providence, RI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 45 of 46 people found this instruction helpful
First I checked the power supply and noticed the breaker was not tripped. Confirmed the unit was getting power. I then downloaded a parts breakdown from the Kitchen Aid website and noticed there was a fuse mounted in the control section. Using my digital multimeter I confirmed there was no continuity through the fuse. I then ordered the part, installed it and washed a load of dishes:-)

Leakage along bottom of door panel during wash/rinse

  • Customer: Carl from North Haven, CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 43 of 44 people found this instruction helpful
The air inlet strip has a flap and two smaller side flaps that seal the bottom of the inner door to the bottom pan that hold the water. The flaps don't form a watertight seal as they only serve to prevent the water surging during wash and rinse cycles from splashing out of the bottom pan onto the floor under the door. What I learned after dismantling the door is that the problem I was having with water dripping from the bottom of the bottom of the outer door was being caused by a loose upper round louvered vent and not he lower vent strip. If the lower vent strip were the problem, water would leak from the front lip of the bottom pan, which is located well behind the face of the front door panel.

Here's my recommendation on the lower vent srtip repair. Turn off the power to the unit at you breaker panel. The air inlet strip is fastened to the backside of the inner stainleess steel door panel. To access the screws the outer door panel must be removed. Open the door and remove the six torx head screws that fasten the outer door panel to the stainless steel inner door. Don't remove the two torx screws top dead center as they hold the door latch. After removing the screws, raise the door up to the nearly closed position. Lift up the outer door panel handle and door bottom to disengage the outer panel from the inner stainless door. The next part is a little tricky since the vent strip hex head screws are at he bottom of the stainless door panel, facing out with the door closed. The lip of the bottom stainless pan is high enough to make it a tight fit to access the screws. There is also a steel bracket that is a door stiffener and holds electrical wiring. I found removing the bracket held by a 1/4" hex head screw on each side made access to the vent strip scews easier. Lay flat on the floor. With a 3/16" nutdriver or socket wrench each of the five vent strip screws can be removed. It's a tight fit between the bottom lip and door bottom, but it can be done. Remove the old vent strip and attach the new one. Make sure it fits snugly into the slot. Best to have an extra pair of hands at this point to hold the stip securely in place while screws are reinserted from the opposite side. Reassemble everything in reverse order.

It was when I had the outer door panel off that I noticed my problem was water getting past the upper round louver vent seal and thus running down the inside of the outer panel. Simple fix was to remove and clean the scale residue from the parts and door. Then reassemble the vent and twitst tighten the vent to compress the rubber seal on the inside face of the door.

Lost dishwasher brackets

  • Customer: Judith from Essex, MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 47 of 63 people found this instruction helpful
I called an experienced plumber, who balanced and installed my new dishwasher properly, using the brackets I ordered from Parts Select, after an INEXPERIENCED plumber had tossed the factory-provided mounting brackets out with the shipping carton. Relief!

Upper Wash Arm fell out

  • Customer: David from Orchard Park, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 38 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
Repair is a piece of cake, much to my relief. The difficult part, if you can call it that, is that when you go to put the small piece in the top that will ultimately hold the Upper Wash Arm in place - don't drop it. Drop it and you are screwed. It goes into the sump area, and you have to disassemble the whole bloody thing to retrieve it, which isn't maybe the easiest thing in the world to figure out. My recommendation would be to 1) remove the top dish rack so you've got a clear shot at it, and 2) cover the sump area with something, anything, that will prevent little bitty pieces that you drop from falling into that sump. Prevent this. Learn from a chump how not to be one yourself.

Water would not drain, upper rack position couldn't be changed

  • Customer: John from Mountain View, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 46 of 71 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled out dishwasher after checking the air gap, etc. Washer would marginally pump out water and could hear motor running on drain cycle. Usual mess from water draining out of hoses.

Ohmed drain motor at 24ohms, should be 16.3 ohms from repair manual. Noted check valve, a rubber flapper, was canted out from sealing surface.

New motor ohms at 24 ohms, installed new motor prophylactilly. Installed new flapper valve through the sump. Washer checked okay for drain cycle.

Feed tube assembly was ordered as upper rack flapper valve was worn into open on upper position due to normal use. Feed tube spinner was small, so the rubber flapper was scavenged from the new assembly and used on the old feed tube assembly.

existing silverware basket got holes in the bottom allowing silverware to fall through

  • Customer: Mitchell from Lake Forest, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 32 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
I'm really handy, but this one was a no-brainer. Lift the damaged silverware basket out of the dishwasher and place the brand new one back in its place. It took more time relishing the new basket and how brand new it looked then the actual repair took.

Dispenser worked intermittently

  • Customer: ROY from PHILPOT, KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 33 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
First, I brought in my electric screwdriver and torx bit set. The screws holding the door are torx type. I removed the screws holding the door cover allowing access to the (6) hex head screws holding the dispenser in place. Raising the plastic flap covering the dispenser I removed the (2) electrical plugs from the solenoid. Using my elec/screwdriver and a 3/16" socket I quickly removed the old dispenser.
I cleaned the gasket area with some 409 and a paper towel and slid the new dispenser into place. I used a 3/16" nutdriver to tighten the screws. I tightened the screws in a cross pattern in (3) stages so as not to squeeze the gasket out of position. Screw slowly and the screws will bottom out when the proper gasket tension has been achieved, don’t over tighten.
I closed the door and ran the dishwasher in rinse cycle checking for leaks. After a couple of minutes and no leaks I pushed the cancel and drain button. I folded the plastic cover back down over the dispenser and reinstalled the outer door cover tightening all screws with my electric screwdriver and torx bit. I opened the door and filled the rinse dispenser.
We've used the dishwasher several times since the repair and the dispenser has worked fine.

The old rack was rusty leaving stains on our china

  • Customer: Carol from Richmond Hill, GA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 30 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
The new rack came with four parts... those four parts were the wheels that the rack rides on to slide it into the dishwasher. You will need to recycle two rubber bumpers, your old utensil basket and the cone in the center of the rack. Getting the cone free was not easy. It has to be rotated to release it from the wire rack. I had to pry it free with a screwdriver. Once rotated it lifted out easily. I noted how the cone lined up in the old rack and installed it the same way in the new rack. It was much easier to install than remove. The new rack has a gray tinge to it but fits perfectly and we are pleased with the end result.

No water out the spray arms; first thing you'll notice is the top rack not getting clean.

  • Customer: Brian from Inola, OK
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 28 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Took racks out, loosen screw on top and back then twist feed tube to right and whole assembly can be removed. Now you should be able to see some torx screws; remove those and then remove the piece they were holding down, from there you'll see another screw, remove it and the piece and so on until there are no more screws. Now there is the food chopper cover that needs to be removed; mine was stuck there. You should notice some ribs underneath that allow the water to be sucked in while keeping really big pieces out; I got a pair of channel-locks, opened them all the way and was able to slip one of the pieces under the cover and pull straight up, once off you will see the chopper covvered in food. I cleaned mine off and it looked good, but when I put it back and stuck my finger down teh discharge tube and turned the pump, the chpper did not turn. when I put the new one in and did the same test it did turn. If the chopper is still fits in the slot, it can be cleaned and put back and work for several washes while the part is shipped. I went ahead and changed the check valve since I had it opened which is just to the right of the chopper(all you can see is a little slit and some black rubber). Use some needle nose and pull it out. I would not do this unless you plan on changing it, I pulled mine out to look at it and when I put it back so I could order the parts the dishwasher never drained properly. When you compare a new one with an old one you will see what I mean, you can drop a new one right in but the old one you will have to force in (gets water logged over time and expands). This job is very easy and a lot cheaper than a new DW...and your wife will be impressed, so do not be intimidated.

Top spinner fell off with each wash cycle.

  • Customer: Dayna from Fridley, MN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 27 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
The upper spinner fell off with each wash and I had been putting the pointy tac-like piece back into the washer type piece, but they did not hold. I ordered the whole kit (spinner was not needed but came with the set). The tac-looking part was the problem, it had been worn down with use. When pushing the new pieces together to hold the upper spinner back in place it was 100% fixed. Took about 10 seconds. Good luck!

no power to anything...shut off mid-cycle

  • Customer: James from Ventura, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 26 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the 6 torx screws that hold the control panel on the top part of the door, from the inside, removed the large plastic cover from the control board, removed the 2 big wires that go to the thermal fuse...tested for continuity and foung the fuse faulty...ordered a new fuse kit, reversed the procedure and it works like new.

Control panel buttons were worn out, circuit board shorted out

  • Customer: Peter from Colleyville, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 30 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off the power at the breaker; took the screws out of the door panel; the control panel was already loose; I took the lock mechanism off the panel, and then removed the electric bundle panel from the control panel; the only thing left was the cicuit board, which I removed, and the wires to it were in a clip all together; I clipped the wires to the new cicuit board, replaced it in the panel slot, then clipped in the wire bundle; the lock mechanism fit right where it was supposed to, then I replaced all the screws in the door panel , starting at the top where the control panel was; I turned the power back on, then turned on the dishwasher- it worked just like new. This was a fairly easy fix for about $150; that would have been the service charge and time alone for a repairman, not including the marked up price of the parts. PartSelect was a lifesaver.

Water was not being pumped out of the dishwasher

  • Customer: Truman from Atlanta, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 29 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
This site is wonderful..., thank you. Especially thanks to Nanette's detailed experience. The thing that gave me the most problem (and apparently Nanette, as well) was removing the lower round cover of the chopper assembly. Finally, some one on the internet identified the trick...put needle nose pliers in the screw-hole and pull-away. It came right out. Wish I could acknowledge the source but now can't find it.
Actually, the check valve was good, but I replaced it anyway. It was 10 times the trouble to replace than the drain pump. Wish I had started with the drain pump. By removing the drain hose, I stuck my finger in the hole and discovered the problem: the impeller was off of the pump and lying in the bottom of the drain. It was a simple thing to replace the pump. Press down on the locking mechanism and turn it to the left. When it was off, I could see that the check valve was in place and not a problem. (Of course by that time, I had already replaced it.) Good luck.
All Instructions for the KUDS01FLSS6
16-30 of 780