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PartSelect Number PS11743433
The drain pump ejects the water from the dishwasher.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Pulled out dishwasher after checking the air gap, etc. Washer would marginally pump out water and could hear motor running on drain cycle. Usual mess from water draining out of hoses.Ohmed drain motor at 24ohms, should be 16.3 ohms from repair manual. Noted check valve, a rubber flapper, was canted out from sealing surface.New motor ohms at 24 ohms, installed new motor prophylactilly. Installed new flapper valve through the sump. Washer checked okay for drain cycle.Feed tube assembly was ordered as upper rack flapper valve was worn into open on upper position due to normal use. Feed tube spinner was small, so the rubber flapper was scavenged from the new assembly and used on the old feed tube assembly.
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This site is wonderful..., thank you. Especially thanks to Nanette's detailed experience. The thing that gave me the most problem (and apparently Nanette, as well) was removing the lower round cover of the chopper assembly. Finally, some one on the internet identified the trick...put needle nose pliers in the screw-hole and pull-away. It came right out. Wish I could acknowledge the source but now can't find it. Actually, the check valve was good, but I replaced it anyway. It was 10 times the trouble to replace than the drain pump. Wish I had started with the drain pump. By removing the drain hose, I stuck my finger in the hole and discovered the problem: the impeller was off of the pump and lying in the bottom of the drain. It was a simple thing to replace the pump. Press down on the locking mechanism and turn it to the left. When it was off, I could see that the check valve was in place and not a problem. (Of course by that time, I had already replaced it.) Good luck.
Removed drain hose to ensure no blockage in drain. No blockage, then removed drain pump cap (where drain hose attaches to drain pump) with allen wrench. Push tab in on drain pump and twist counterclockwise, drain pump came off. Reversed to attach new pump and it works.
Replaced the pump drain as one complete assembly. Couldn't do it from under the front panel as there is a small lug that you have to depress on the top of the assembly before you can twist the assembly counter-clockwise by hand. I tried but I couln't get the leverage. Had to take dishwasher out from under the unit and tip it on its side. The rest was very straightforward. If you can remove the dishwasher from under the unit easily I would suggest you don't even bother trying to change the pump drain while the dishwasher is in place. It's not worth the hassle.
After researching the issue, it pointed to either a clogged hose or a bad pump. I cleaning the hose, verifying that there was no clog by using baking soda, vinegar and water. It would work, once maybe twice, then the water would sit again. I checked the line again, no issues. I purchased a new pump. The installation of the pump was easy, only to discover that this did NOT solve my problem. I am now considering a new dishwasher or purchasing a new $150 motor. It sucks not being able to send the parts back.
Drained washer with hand pump. Thermo fuse had blown. Removed control panel and substituted a 15 amp automotive ATC fuse, shimming the blades with aluminum foil. Removed dishwasher from counter niche. Tipped dishwasher, removed and inspected drain pump and recirculating pump. No apparent problems noted. Temporarily rerouted supply and drain lines and restarted. Grinding noise clearly came from the drain pump. Ordered new drain pump and replaced.replaced 20 amp thermo fuse.
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