KUDS01FLSS2 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

After researching the issue, it pointed to either a clogged hose or a bad pump. I cleaning the hose, verifying that there was no clog by using baking soda, vinegar and water. It would work, once maybe twice, then the water would sit again. I checked the line again, no issues. I purchased a new pump. The installation of the pump was easy, only to discover that this did NOT solve my problem. I am now considering a new dishwasher or purchasing a new $150 motor. It sucks not being able to send the parts back.

I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.

I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.

I first went on line to the KitchenAid repair web site and found my problem listed and instructions given . This first of all led me to a parts drawing for my model and then to the site connection to order the parts and receive the instructions. The parts arrived quickly and the instructions were thorough and easy to follow. This was a good experience for me.

put new hose on, very easy.

To perform this repair do the following:
1.) Turn off power to the dishwasher
2.) Turn off water, disconnect the water supply and drain using adj. wrench and/or nutdriver, remove any contents from inside
3.) Remove screws (2) from underside cabinet, remove kick plate from bottom by removing two (2) screws there, pull out washer gently providing slack to drain hose and water line
4.) Gently place washer on side, do not invert or lean on the front side, water may enter control panel and damage it
5.) Remove the water line from Inlet valve using adj. wrench
6.) Disconnect both wires from solenoid.
7.) There is one metal screw holding the valve in place, remove it with a nutdriver, slide valve assembly out.
8.) Remove the 90 degree brass angle fitting from old valve, this may require some effort. Using thread tape, install fitting on new valve assembly.
9.) Replace parts in reverse order, using thread tape on any additional water line fittings requiring it, restoring water and power last.
10.) Run a test wash and check for leaks.
Hope this helps, it did appear to fix my problem.

PartSelect found the right part for me on the first try. I had scoured the web looking for this particular drying agent cap. Even Sears said I'd have to order the entire dispenser assembly - $$$!

PartSelect found just the cap I needed at a much better price.

Fantastic service. Shipping was faster than promised. I can't say enough good things about them!

We took off the old one by disconnecting everything and put in the new one an re-connected everything. Aligning the pump was a little difficult.

Took me longer to find my tools than to do the repair. DId have to call the PartSelect 800 # while making repair but woman there read to me a note in their system about a redesign of the replacement part that explained exactly my question. She was VERY helpful. I will not be calling the appliance repairman again!

Removed 2 screws that fasten dishwasher to underside of countertop. Pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop for access to sides. Hooked link on door, threaded cord around 2 wheels, hooked spring to back of dishwasher, stretched spring and hooked to eye on end of link cord. I found it very difficult to hook spring to link then try and stretch spring to hole at back of dishwasher. Easier to pull spring and link towards each other and connect. Note: This link was actually different from the original. The plastic end that connects to the door actually hits the first wheel when door is closed but it doesn't seem to prevent the door from locking properly (old design was better). However, I shaved this plastic end to provide better clearance.

REMEMBER TO SHUT OFF POWER _ Had to remove the screws using TORX driver on the inside door edge-- then came the hard part -- the foam insulation is glued to the inner door and the outer cover- I was able to finally separate the cover leaving the foam on the inner door. Then had to break off the foam insulation on the lower third of the door up from the bottom. I then had access to the screws holding the air inlet to the door. The screws are located so you can't get a straight shot at them and it is very difficult to get at them. These screws are hex head metric and very small. When they are removed the old air inlet will come right off. Take the new one and duct tape it in place inside the door and replace the screws. I recommend doing the outer ones first and since they are the easiest to get started, then you can fight the others a little easier. After the screws are replaced and tightened replace the lower half of the insulating foam by duct taping it to the foam that remained on the inner door. Then replace the outer cover and secure with the TORX screws. This was a time consuming and tough repair. I don't recommend it to a novice.

Just followed the YouTube video they sent with the receipt.

Nothing to it. Pulled the old one and subbed a new one. Sort of a one handed affair. What was amazing was how easy it was to navigate the site, find the exact part I needed, order it, get it quickly and not pay a small fortune for the privilege. Way to go guys.

First, I bought the door balance link to replace the broken links that connect to the springs.

Because I didn't have enough slack to simply pull out the dishwasher far enough to reach the springs, I had to disconnect the water line and electrical wiring.
The only reason my repair took as long as it did was because there was so little room underneath the dishwasher for disconnecting the water line. I had to buy a shorter adjustable wrench. Also, I had leaks after reconnecting the water line. I had to tighten the compression nut as far as it would go. The nut wrapped around a white substance that had been applied to the threads (I believe this is called pipe tape), which did the trick for sealing the leak.

The repair was a complete success! The parts arrived fast and the information from other customers on the the PartsSelect website was invaluable.

After turning off the breaker, disconnecting the water supply, disconnecting the drain line, and taking out the two screws that fasten to the bottom of the counter top, the unit slid right out. Once the unit was out I disconnected the two leads going to the element ends and used a 3/4 ratchet to take the large plastic nuts off. The unit came out very easy and the new one slid right back in. In revers order I had the unit mounted back under the sink in just minutes. I then removed the six torx head screws that allowed the front door unit to come free. The control board was a 4 connector plugs and 1 ribbon cable. No screws on this just move over the plastic tabs and pop the board out. Ran a cycle that night and I'm back in business. Thanks PartSelect.