KUDS01FLSS2 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed back of door to access the screws holding on the air inlet. The top of the door with the controls does not need to be removed, I found out--only the bottom part. Accessing the 5 screws was difficult as there was no space to get the socket onto the screws at a 90 degree angle. Also, there are two plastic shields that fall off when you remove the inlet that need to be replaced, with difficulty because of the accessibility to the area.

PartSelect site is excellent and finding the correct part was relatively simple, although I was not absolutely sure I ordered the right part until it arrived--only one day after ordering, although I paid for the least S&H option.

Need torx to remove front panel. There are four screws that hold the control panel that don't need to be removed. If you do remove them, it helps to put the control panel back before you reinstall the front. The six screws that hold the soap dispenser are a very small hex (<1/4, maybe 3/16). It would help to have some small sockets or nut drivers handy for this.

The door balance is easy.

Replaced the switch, that did not fix it, but a new circuit card did

Replaced track on left side.

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.

Pulled front panel and replaced door switch. Extremely easy but did not fix the problem.

Unplug dishwasher and slide it out from under cabinet. Remove old broken link (a heavy string between two plastic parts) and replace with new one. Slide dishwasher back and plug it in. Very easy and no tools required.

removed old fastener part (broken) from bracket

placed new fastener above bracket

aligned spray arm below bracket

snapped lower fastener part into place

couldnt be easier so long as you have two capable hands and eyesight

I removed the old seal and carefully cleaned the track into which the seal was fixed. No tools other than some ordinary cleaning liquid, cloth and small wooden piece to swab out the track. Easy and quick. As a note here, I first used the incorrect schematic for the unit and ordered the wrong seal. However after receiving the wrong part, I made the correction and reordered. I did this over the phone as I needed instructions to return the part. The person taking my order and answering my questions was very helpful and I want to take this opportunity to thank her.

I began by opening the door to the dishwasher. The front panel on this unit is a custom wood panel held on by six screws. I removed the screws and the front panel. Then I unscrewed the two remaining screws holding the control panel onto the door. I also removed the two screws holding the door latch in position. With all screws removed the control panel simply slid off the top of the door. Inside the control panel, I used a small screw drive to pry the retainer clips back from the edge of the electronic control board. The control panel then snaps out. I disconnected the ribbon cable from both boards and reinstalled the new ribbon cable. I then reattached the ribbon cable to the new electronic control board and snapped the new control board into place. I reinstalled the control panel and tested the "Normal" position to insure the dishwasher would respond appropriately. After checking for proper operation, I reinstalled all screws,including the door latch and the front cover. Operation complete.

Start Button on top was worn away and the contact below was no longer starting the dishwasher. Removed the Torx screws holding the latch then the remaining holding the outer door, be careful it can be a touch heavy and bulky. disconnected the wiring harness from the door to the (computer) you might want to mark the positions of the 4 blade type wires as the connections are the same size.. take a picture before you start removal, or use a bit of tape. Once wires are removed, use a jewelers or very small blade screwdriver to separate the wiring from the control panel from the computer, it is easier if you do this while it is still in the plastic housing as it can be a bit tight to remove then simply push back the retainers, not much force is needed, if you look closely you can see where the (teeth) hold the computer and old control board down. Once you have separated the control board and the computer from the housing, install the control board, with the switches aligned under the contact buttons, and clip it into place, then the computer and the wiring to the control board.. then connect back to dishwasher, and reinstall the door, You may want to have someone assist in holding the door in place and lightly install the center screws, then the bottoms before the upper ones, after all are aligned and started then go back and tighten all screws, remember, you don't need to over tighten them. once replaced, test and and start. It is easy I was quoted over $400 for this job.. I bought the parts for $200 and saved $200. Good Luck.

Removed required hardware and dishwasher from undercounter mount. Turned dishwasher on its front and removed the old motor. Installed the new motor and tested for function. Installed once test was successful.

Remove and replace solinoid, remove and replace mico switch. These are the only two electrically controlled devieces controling water flow. Replacing switch without replacing housing takes a soft touch. A small screw driver helps. Electrical connections have a stay in place nipple. Plyers help get thoes off.

Parts delivered as promised, correct fit. Phone contact available at order question.

Would used this site again.

grade 3.5 A=4

Just removed the old seal and followed the instructions that came with the new one. Since the old one didn't have any adhesive on it ,I didn't use the adhesice on the new one. Problem solved!