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Dishwasher was making a loud noise during the wash cycle and it was getting worse with time. The bearing nearest the pump impeller was failing.
Disconnect the water supply, the drain line, and the two screws that go up into the cabinet frame, then pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. Tip the unit onto it's face and the main pump/motor is facing up. Turn off the power then unplug the electrical connector from the motor. Remove the single bolt at the base of the motor then turn the whole motor ~1/4 turn counter-clockwise. A firm pull will remove the motor/pump at this point. The new motor/pump has a new seal. See that the arrows on the pump volute and the motor frame are lined up before inserting into the housing. The new motor/pump slides into the housing easily and a 1/4 turn clockwise will pull it in tight. Re-install the locking bolt and revers the rest of the steps to get running again.
Although the lower rack was a slightly different style than our original, it fit the dishwasher perfectly. We needed to transfer the silverware racks to the new rack and insert one set of removable tines. About 5 minutes and we are very happy with the repair.
First removed bottom kick plate cover to reveal the Inlet valve. Saw that it was leaking around the plastic around the solenoid. Turned of the water shutoff valve and unplugged the power cord. Unplugged the two wires from the valve and loosened and removed the tubing going into the valve. Removed two screws that hold the valve assembly to the front frame with a nutdriver. Slide assembly to the right and remove from the two slots. Ordered new valve from Partselect and replaced.
First, turn the power off as you need to access the door handle from inside the control panel. There are six phillips head screws that hold the control panel onto the door. These screws are accessible from inside the door. There are two at each top edge and one on each side of the door latch. Hold the control panel on the front side of the door when removing these screws to insure the control panel doesn't drop and damage the control wiring. Once the screws are removed, tilt the control panel away from the door to access the inside of the panel. The latch assembly that the door handle attaches to will come free with a little wiggling (no screws here). Once free, the door handle is pretty easy access. It snaps into place so removing the old one a installing the new one is a snap. Removing the two wires connected to the switch on the latch assembly made things a little easier.
If your chopper assembly has a catastrophic failure like mine did, chances are it took out the teeth on the circulation motor as well. This will lead to the teeth on the chopper being destroyed by the impeller as soon as you turn the dishwasher back on. First, follow the instructional video to remove the motor (found on this site on the circulation motor page) and chopper assembly (also found on this site on the chopper assembly page). The impeller is screwed onto the input shaft of the motor, and you must keep it from turning so that you can unscrew the impeller assembly. I removed the back cover of the motor (there are four screws holding it on) and held a flat pry bar on the rotating assembly inside the motor to keep it from turning, then unscrewed the impeller from the shaft. Mine came off very easy, but be careful not to let your pry bar slip or damage the motors internals. After that, install the washer and grommet from the impeller seal kit on to the impeller, and screw it back on while keeping the motor from turning with your pry bar. Lastly, reinstall the motor and chopper assembly per the aforementioned instructional videos. The whole thing took around an hour to do, and it is much cheaper than replacing the entire circulation motor.
The upper wash arm fell off because the snap button had worn out
I simply pulled the top rack out as far as it would go, reached in and gently bent supply arm down so I could get the snap button (male end) in from the top. The female end and the wash arm then just snapped up into the male end. It took less than a minute. I probably saved about $75 doing this myself.
Dishwasher wouldn't drain; pump drain impeller had come off drive shaft.
Replaced the pump drain as one complete assembly. Couldn't do it from under the front panel as there is a small lug that you have to depress on the top of the assembly before you can twist the assembly counter-clockwise by hand. I tried but I couln't get the leverage. Had to take dishwasher out from under the unit and tip it on its side. The rest was very straightforward. If you can remove the dishwasher from under the unit easily I would suggest you don't even bother trying to change the pump drain while the dishwasher is in place. It's not worth the hassle.
Very fast delivery of the parts ordered, but there were no instructions included for putting it together. There were tons of little pieces and I had no idea how they went together. I did the best I could by looking at the old rack, but the new one is very different from the old as far as the layout of the dividers.
D/W leaked a puddle of water onto the floor every Load
I removed the old gasket simply by pulling on it. I compared its length to the length of the new gasket, figuring there would be some trimming to do -- there wasn't. The replacement was exactly the same. I placed a mark on the center of the new gasket, and marked the center of the mounting groove. I aligned the two marks, and pushed the new gasket into the groove, starting at the center, and worked my way out towards the two ends. After getting a majority of the new gasket to seat by hand, I GENTLY used the tip of a slotted screwdriver to ensure that the New Gasket was completely snapped into place. The fit was perfect, and no more leaks. This repair was so simple, I'm embarressed for putting it off for so long. ;)
You need to pull the unit out to get access to the spring connected to the rear leg frame. Use the everything in the kit. The rollers are upgraded and will guid the cable better.
First I shut off the breaker for the dishwasher. I had to remove the 6 screws that hold the top part of the dishwasher door to find the panel with the fuse. Then following the instructions that came with the new fuse I cut the wires from the old fuse to remove it. Next I installed the new fuse and attached the wires and then replaced the screws. Turned the breaker back on and everything worked great.
Problelm had been diagnosed by repairman but he said with labor and materials it wasn't worth fixing. Wasn't about to replace dishwasher since I'm planning on a total kitchen doover in 3-5 years.
Turned off power to dishwasher at box. Used star tip screwdriver bit to remove 6 screws on inside of control panel. Electrical ribbon disconnected from electric assembly and electric assembly popped out of control panel, door latch component then removed from its housing. Electric adssembly and door latch components put back in proper place on new control panel and electric ribbon connected. Made sure door latch worked properly, turned power back on and ran a "light" load of just a few plates and glasses. Works fine now!!! Only "difficulty" was balancing the control panel and the electronic components still wired to the dishwasher--didn't want to drop it, so either have a second set of hands or something to balance it on--I used the cabinet door of the cabinet next to the dishwasher.
Removed drain hose to ensure no blockage in drain. No blockage, then removed drain pump cap (where drain hose attaches to drain pump) with allen wrench. Push tab in on drain pump and twist counterclockwise, drain pump came off. Reversed to attach new pump and it works.
