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No Water supply to Dishwasher. Turned off main Supply valve under sink.First took off old Diswasher supply valve and repaired it by cleaning it and it worked for two weeks. I ordered the part, but then cancelled it and Partselect service was great and cancelled it immediately. After it went down after 2 weeks I re-ordered it and it came in 4 days. To Take this part off I removed mounting scews with nut driver, disconeected electronic plug connector, removed the compression fitting from the water supply and removed the outlet hose..reversed all of the above to install.
I removed the door gasket first by sliding it out.Then I pulled the door seal out. It suggested removing the springs,very hard to find and do, so we left them in place and did not use two parts of the kit because they were still good. Putting in the door seal was a bit tricky because we had to use something to push it into the groove.That was the reason for the credit card. It was easier to push it into groove rather than doing it with a screw drive for fear of punacturing a hole in the rubber gasket. It worked well. Then we kept checking to see if the door shut properly, It was tight at first, but seemed a little better after adjusting the seal a bit.No leaks after that.
I used a pair of pliers to take out the corroded old door gasket. I then used my fingers to put in the new gasket, beginning at the middle of the top of the frame and working my way down on each side. It couldn't have been easier.
First I removed the plastic bolt that holds the wash arm in place This exposed the upper ring that was worn out . I then lifted the arm off which exposed the larger ring. I replaced that ring, and then I put the arm back on and replaced the upper ring. I put the plastic bolt back in place and the repair was complete.-- Really Easy plus the dishwasher gets the dishes clean now
The plastic Retainer nut holding the lower sprayer arm severed
The repair was simple except for removing the thread portion of the old retainer nut from the lower housing. I had to remove the lower housing and separate the male threads of the old plastic nut from the female threads in the lower housing. That took 25 minutes since I did not want to ruin the female threads. Once removed, the new parts went into place easily.
You'll have to excuse me, but I'm a women and don't know the exact names for the parts. Since my nut broke off in two parts, I had to remove the screws on top of the drain screen to get the other half. I just used a philips screwdriver and removed the 7 screws. Took out the broken part, and that was it. Put back the screws, put on the spinning water arm and put in my new part to keep it in place. Thank you. This saved alot of money for a repair person.
I removed the bottom spray arm and replaced the worn part. Now the arm turned freely and was performing as it was designed to do. I appreciate parts select for having the part available since the manufacturer no longer supported the model.
The 'nozzle' end of the arm tube fell into the bottom of the dishwasher, and was partially melted by the heating element.
One screw was taken out, the old arm removed, the new one put in place, then attached to the new arm tube holder. TADA!!!! Done. I am a widow, and think I saved about $75.00 doing this job myself. Thank you.
Bottom of dishwasher retained an inch of water after cycles complete. Had to pump out dirty water before starting new cycle.
Once the covers under the door are removed, the check valve is visible (unless its too dark, hence the headlight), and pointing right at you. Since I was working under the dishwasher, I gathered all the tools I thought I might need and laid them on the floor next to. Removed 2 covers, placed pan under check valve and hose to catch any water, squeezed clamp with (wrong) pliers, it eventually came loose. Carefully twisted hose off check valve. Water came out, some of it got into the pan, most of it on the floor. I guess I should have pumped it out before I started this. Plastic check valve is screwed into the big piece of whatever, carefully grabbed it with (wrong again) pliers and turned it out. Installation is reverse of removal - but use a large pliers with a ROUNDED jaw to grab the round check valve body. Don't squeeze too hard or overtighten it. Put the clamp on the valve before pushing the hose on. Be sure the hose seats all the way onto the little lugs. Compress the clamp, slide it over the end of the hose and release. That's all folks, works good now.
Mine is a Ultra Wash 111 I followed the repair video on your site but my dishwasher was a little different. Not enough that anyone could still understand the video and not get it disassembled. The video shows two ball checks but mine doesn't use them where the videos shows. I put them in anyway because I called Whirlpool, who made my washer, and they assured me that they should be in there. They got sucked through the dump impeller and plugged the discharge tube so I had to disassemble it again and take the ball checks out. Lucky for me nothing got damaged. I then got a hold of someone on your chat line that got me to the correct parts view that shows where the ball check is suppose to go on my washer. During working on my washer I realized the squealing was because the bottom bearing on the motor needed oil. So all and all I'm happy because it runs quiet and it works fine. Thanks Greg
Followed the video. Only issue was that the panel mount screws cracked the plastic nibs that the screws threaded into. I replaced the screws with a Chrome sheet metal screw a bit longer and it held. Easy job!
Very noisy on heavy wash cycles started and stopped when filling
repair was very easy did need to go to the hardware store for and adapter for the hose to water inlet valve as mine had a smaller diameter connector. Otherwise followed both videos. Needed a shopvac to remove water in the bottom of the dishwasher
