KTRS25QAWH12 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Didn't know if part was replaced from the front or back of door. Removed back/inside first. Good excuse to clean mold found in places not normally seen. The only real problem was getting the face off the dispenser without breaking it. I now know it snaps off from the bottom. To replace one little nozzle you have to replace about 10' of tube. When I pulled the old tube out. I attached fishing line to it and used to fishing line to help feed the new tube through the door.

While moving our refrigerator when remodeling the kitchen, the front roller assembly shattered from age. The original set was made of nylon and age made it very fragile. Also to make the move easier, we removed the shelves. In the process the lower shelf support stud snapped.

When the parts came the first thing repaired was the shelve support stud. Very easy job to do, just take the pliers and rotate the broken stud counterclockwise a quarter turn and remove. Put new stud in the hole in the same position as the removed stud and gently, but firmly rotate the stud a quarter turn clockwise until it seats.

The front roller assembly requires a socket set, block of wood about 1/2 - 1" thick flashlight and 4’ level. First, remove the front grill by opening both doors of the side by side and pulling the grill out of its left and right side anchors. Close the doors. Place the block of wood under the front support near the center. Remove the leveling screw from the old assembly and install it loosely in the new assembly as the new assembly has no leveling screw. This will now allow you to remove the old assembly by removing the remaining screw in the roller assembly on the front refrigerator support and turning the roller assembly slightly counterclockwise and pulling out the front. You may have to wiggle it, as it sits in a slot on the side support of the refrigerator. To install, place the new assembly in the same position as the old, locate the slot with the flashlight and push the roller set tab into the slot. Attach the support screw and tighten while holding the assembly in place. It is a good idea to replace both rollers at the same time. The same rollers will fit both sides. Now level the refrigerator by tightening the leveling screw until the front rollers now touch the floor. Next, place the level on the top of the refrigerator diagonally but not on top of the door supports. Turn the leveling screws until the bubble is in the center when the level is set in either diagonal position. Replace grill and you done.

Replaced the compressor with the new one I purchased from you. Installed new parts and recharged unit. The refrigerator / freezer is working better than new. Thanks for the great deal on the compressor. It was here in 3 days. All the parts fit exactly and had no difficulty in the installation or startup. The directions for the wiring were a great help also. Thanks again.

I checked the fuses and hoses in the back of the refrigerator to make sure water WAS in fact getting to the front of the fridge. Since the water through the front door worked fine, I had to check the water tube running to the ice maker. It was fine and water was waiting to go somewhere! I decided to pull the icemaker out of the fridge to see what I could fine. Once it was out, I took the ICEMAKER CONTROL AND MOTOR ASSEMBLY off (that's the side part with the dial on it). Only 3 screws to take that off, and it was EASY to see what was wrong once I took that off. There was a connection that was obviously bad (looked almost like it had burned out). My thought was that it was obvious what part was bad, what would it hurt for me to try to fix it myself? When I got online to find the part, PartSelect was the only one that I found that had the EXACT part that I needed, and lucky for me, there were multiple pictures of multiple angles of the part so I could compare and make sure I had the right one!! The part with shipping cost less than the cost of a repair tech to even come out and look at the fridge. Then add the cost of the part and labor if I had the repair tech fix it...I probably saved about $250!!!!

I took out the ice collection box and auger to get access to the three screws holding the ice maker assembly against the left wall of the freezer. You can use a screwdriver or a nut driver. I then unpluged the assembly and wiggled it loose from the water fill tube. I assumed that unplugging the unit would disable the water valve but I put a plastic tub under the fill tube just in case. I studied the assembly on the kitchen table for a few minutes before I disasembled it. After removing a snapon plastick cover I removed three or four screws on the gearbox and was able to pull and wiggle the parts apart. The heater contacts have rubber O rings so you have to be firm pulling the mould out of and into the gearbox mount. Make sure it is fully seated. On reassembly note that the ice kicking arm is notched so it fits into the gearbox only one way and it helps to have it in position when you screw the gearbox back on. I also found the plastic ice guide that fits on top of the mold a little awkward in snaping back together. Make sure its fingers space evenly with the ice kicking arms.

I removed the ice maker assembly from the freezer compartment (four nuts/ nut driver) and unplugged the wire harness. I discovered the nature of the problem and I went on the Internet to look for replacement parts expecting I'd have to buy the entire ice maker. When I found PartSelect.com I looked through the pictures of the parts available for my ice maker. I found the correct part quickly and easily. And having an acurate photo on the site, I was able to match all the key features of the mold I had with the one on the screen. I ordered the part, and installed it the day it arrived with just a Phillips screwdriver and a nut driver. It functions perfectly.

1. Turn off water supply to refrigerator.
2. Unscrew water nozzle from dispenser.
3. Remove grill on bottom front of refrigerator.
4. Unscrew tubing at the left side of the union.
5. Unclip tubing from the refrigerator frame.
6. Pull tubing out of the dispenser about 6 inches.
7. Cut off nozzle with scissors.
8. Insert 1/4" diameter x 1" long molly bolt about halfway into end of tubing where it was cut.
9. Insert the remainder of the molly bolt into the end of the new tubing.
10. Pull the old tubing through the bottom of the door.
11. When the new tubing is pulled all the way through the door disconnect from the old tubing. Remove molly bolt if it is in the new tubing.
12. Remove the ferrel from the old tubing and use to attach new tubing to the union.
13. Connect the water nozzle to the dispenser.
14. Insert new tubing into the clips on the refrigerator frame.
15. Re-install grill.
16. Turn on water.

Switched Electric breaker to off. Removed all food and ice cube tray from freezer. Remove 4 screws on soleniod cover in rear of freezer. Removed two screws, two elec connectors from old soleniod and removed. Installed new soleniod. Reinstalled elec connectors and screws, ice cube tray and food. Turned breaker on . Ice maker worked properly.

I assumed the motor had burned out. I removed the 4 hex-head screws to remove the bracket holding the motor. I had to squeeze the electrical fitting to the motor located in the right rear of the compartment in order to electrically disconnect the motor, since the lower part of the fitting has a latch that prevents its easy removal. Then I could insert a vice grips on the shaft and on the coupling in order to (reverse) unscrew the coupling from the motor. I initially received the wrong replacement motor, but when the correct one arrived, it installed on the mounting bracket easily and I reinstalled the bracket with motor easily. It turns out a new motor did NOT fix the problem, so I'm not sure what to do now.

The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

After unplugging the fridge, I removed all the phillips head screws from the evaporator fan housing as well as the back cover and the bottom of the freezer compartment (7) in all. After first removing the bottom cover - then the back cover I could access the evaporator fan unit. This was held in place with two hex-head screws that were easily removed with a nut driver. Then after unplugging the Red, White, and Green wires from the fan I removed it and replaced it with the new one. I did have to break off the two ends of the mounting bracket as described in the instruction sheet since it was too wide. Repeating the above steps in reverse, I had the job done and refridgerator up and running as quiet as could be in less than 15 minutes.

Removed four screws from ice maker motor/light support.Then unplugged electrical plug from side of freezer.Used two slip joint pliers to remove coupler from motor shaft. installed new coupler to shaft hand tight as will tighten as motor is run.Then reversed tear down order.
Ice dispenser works better than when we first got the refrigerator

Repair went fine, no problems, had to wait for fan and compressor to come on. New defrost timer must of been in defrost mode, came on in about 30 minutes and is working fine, should get a few more years out of it.

removed the three screw holding the broken unit - pulled off the old module.

Before I could install new module I had to loosen some fasteners on ice maker so I could turn shaft to align with new module.

Then push on new unit and three screws. Had tumbling ice in about an hour. My wife thinks I'm a hero. (I am)

shut off water supply behind fridge then released trapped water pressure in the line at the dispenser. Locked off dispenser controls (push button switch). Removed nozzle retaining screw and pulled out nozzle approx. 3 in. to cut off tubing at black pipe so as to use the old pipe as a guide/pull (fish) for the new pipe by joining the end of the new nozzle to the cut and of the old pipe with electrical tape.Then pulled the old pipe from bottom of fridge while simultaneously feeding/pushing new pipe from top. I had to remove lower grate on fridge to access the pipe on bottom. Remaining coupling connection on bottom was done by hand to avoid stripping plastic coupling.