KSRB25FHSS02 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Watched the 'self-help' video on your website. Loosened the 3 sheetmetal screws,loosened the icemaker, unplugged the single connector and did the reverse order with the new icemaker. Very, very easy.

I watched the video showing how to disassemble unit and it showed that there was a heat element inside the chute door under the foam seal that needed to be removed and placed in side the new chute door. I spent about 10-15 minutes trying to salvage the element but the adhesive used would not release and the part was rendered unusable. I called the help line and was told that their instructions on that kit said the heating element was no longer required. I finished putting the kit in and the unit works fine

My Whirlpool refrigerator frezzer was not defrosting and the refrigator was not cooling. I followed the symptom parts advise (Defrost Timer Kit and the Bimetl-Def)of P/S. I pulled out the refrigerator from it inclosure and unpluged it, (note the shelf supports, the thinner ones are on the left side) I remove the shelfs and their supports,I removed the interior back cover of the frezzer, using a hair dryer I melted the frozen ice from the frezzer coile. Once all the ice was melted away, I cut off the old BIMETL-DEF and attacth the new BIMETL-DEF making sure the color wires are match correctly and using electrical connection plugs and electric tape I reconnected the wires. (2) I followed the video instruction for replacing the Defrost Timer Kit I found it to be quite easy to follow. The most deficult part was trying to position my body to remove the screws. I used an old CREDIT CARD to remove the face of the Refrigerator control buttons in order to access the compartment which house the Defrost Timer kit. I removed the old Defrost time kit and replaced it with the new one (following the Video instruction). I replace the frezzer cover inserting the lower four screws then using an old Credit Card I forced the top end of the frezzer cover under its retaing wall. I then replace the remaining two screws. JOB DONE

Over a period of weeks I watched my fridge grand to a halt. It was...saddening. I felt helpless, there was nothing I could do and I wasn't prepared to pull in a repairman. Upon it's departure from being affective (broke) I made up my mind to purchase a new one!! Flash-forward five minutes n the internet ...motivator by high costs, I altered my thinking and visited You Tube for a fix-it video. After a quick search I came across a clip that took me to the heart of the problem. It was THAT easy. Wow!! I followed the instructions and quickly learned the failure had to do with a small, light weight fan that's role was to pull heat from the condenser--it had ceased to work. While waiting for the part, I let a small fan blow on the condenser to dissipate the heat. The fridge roared to life!! Like a charm!! When the new fan body arrived I placed the blade from the old fan on it and installed it (the fan did not come with bolts and the holes were not threaded) using sheet metal screws. It immediately came started performing again and has been doing a superb job ever since. I easily saved $800 in costs going this route!!

I followed the video instruction to a tee. It's exactly as described. However . . . my old plastic cam was so worn out that it had mushroomed within the inside of the door and would not come out without some "coaxing". And of all times to be unable to locate my needle-nose pliers, this was just plain bad timing. The cam was removed in pieces with the aid of a razor knife and a regular pliers. It took some additional time (approx. 1/2 hr.), but eventually it came out. Once this happened, the rest was a breeze. Moral to the story: Replace the cams on these doors every 5 or 6 years, whether it's needed or not. An ounce of prevention is worth 30 pounds of cure and avoided frustration. And for the few dollars spent on the cam, it just doesn't make sense not to.

I was hesitant about calling the repair line, I thought it was a gimmick, but tried anyway since it was close to the 4th of July weekend. The repairman asked a few questions and diagnosed the problem. He said the sensor was out on the ice maker and I would have to get a new one, he gave a link to the part I needed. I was still hesitant, as I know very little about repairing appliances. Thought about it for an hour, decided to order the part, and thought I would call a repair man if all else failed and send the part back. I received the part in 3 days and it didn't look too difficult to install, I decided to give it a shot, all i have to do was take a few screws out, remove the old ice maker, and put the new ice maker in and plug it in and attach the screws, it went real well, the hardest part was finding the right size socket to fit on the screws, I turned the water back on and it didn't leak. The next day I had ice, still can't believe I did it myself. I was extremely pleased, that I didn't have to call a repairman and take a day off from work to get it fixed. I will use this sevice again.

Removed hinged door from front of ice maker. Removed screws from bottom of ice maker. Removed ice maker unit and replaced control board. One pin connection was burnt. Reassembled unit and it works fine.

Ice door would not close thus letting warm air into the freezer compartment. Thinking the spring was broken, I ordered the Ice Door Kit. When it arrived, I dismantled the dispenser and installed the new parts. After installing all the new parts, I found that my problem was the "Y" end of the bracket that holds the spring pin. It was cracked and would not hold the pin. The bracket seemed to be molded into the panel on the outside of the dispenser. To replace the bracket, I would have had to replace the entire outside panel. I decided to repair the bracket and glue the broken piece. I used cyanoacrylate(CA)super glue that I use in model making. Even though that seemed adequate, I decided to drill a small hole through the bracket, perpendicular to the crack, and install a small screw to strengthen the crack. I also applied a little CA to the screw for good measure. It held fast and so far so good!

I just followed the enclosed instructions

Your web site was great. There was a short step by step video on how to remove and replace the ice door kit and tools required. The only additional tool I used was Blue Tape so I could stabilize the inner control panel out of way onto Door.If I need more appliance parts I now know where I am ordering from!!

Neither the OEM instructions nor any of the PartSelect videos explained BOTH ends of the tube for my particular appliance. All very thoroughly covered the obvious connection with the water valve from the wall. However, the push valve end for my KitchenAid is supposed to insert into the water filter chassis, which can barely be seen from the back of the appliance, much less reached with any tool. In order to make the repair, one must either remove the water filter chassis (which I attempted unsuccessfully), or put the appliance up on jacks in order to reach the push valve site.

Watched youtube video from your site. The video was great and the ice macine works perfectly now.

Remove inside door trim plate. Then removed three screws that held in the light assembly. The only difficult thing was reconnecting the temperature adjustment rod. After replacing this rod you must slide the temperature control slide to midway and this hold the rod in place while reinstalling the light assembly. If I were to do it again it would probably take me half as long.

Unpluged the refrigerator. Removed the cover on the control unit by inserting a screw driver under the metal clips. Removed the three screws frrom the front of the control unit. Pulled toward the back of the refrigerator on the metal loop which turns the icemaker on and off and it came loose where it goes into the control unit. Wiggled the unit and it came free. place the new unit in approximately the right position. Reached into the icemaker and moved the ice eject leavers so the shaft would enter the control unit with the flat side of the ejector in the right position. Gently pushed the control unit into its place and aligned the screw holes. Replaced the three screws. Inserted the wire shut off loop into the hole on the back of the control unit housing. Pluged in the electric. The ice maker worked.

Followed instructions on video on website. Very easy to do. Removed old part, put in new and it took all of 15-20 minutes. Had ice in approximately 1 hour.