Turned breaker off. Removed oven door for access, two screws loosened element, unplugged wires from element & removed element. Reverse order to install. Perfect fit. Thanks.
Removed rear panel (6 screws) and disconnected the four connectors on the Broil element. Then removed the 4 screws holding the the element to the top of the oven cavity. Inserted new element and connected the 4 screws to secure it. Connected the four connectors and re-installed the rear panel.
This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.
Inner door glass broke from contact with cooler liquid.
I followed the instructions submitted by other users which were helpful. Two notes that might help someone. 1. To loosen the screws holding the inner door glass, use channel lock type pliers to slightly twist the square bracket the screw is holding. The screw comes out easily then. 2. Note that the flange on the side rails go UNDER the glass door front. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get screw holes lined up with the flanges on top - DUH!
I Broke The Inner Glass On My Oven Door With A Pizza Stone
I did the repair myself while my husband was at work. I lacked the brute strength to remove the door, so I ended up taking in apart while it was in place. Unfortunately, I only now noticed that instructions for installation were provided on your website. I did it without instruction, just making sure to note where screws had been removed so I'd be able to reassemble the works when I was finished. The worst part was loosening a couple of the innermost screws--even after a long soak in wd40, they were really hard to crack loose. Once I managed that, though, it went smoothly. Don't be intimidated; you can do this stuff yourself without calling--and paying--a repairman.
That should have been an easy repair according to previous responders that replaced this part.
The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.
The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.
NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.
Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!
After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)
The new switch pin configuration differed from the old switch but the instructions were clear on the conversion. Would have gone quicker but I reviewed about 10 times before turning on the power just to be safe.
Baking element burnt in two, Broiler element was only half workeng
The repair was simple: PartSelect always seems to have the parts you need and they get them to you quickly. Baking element - I removed the two screws that hold the element to the back of the oven ( Philips head). Disconnected the spade type electrical connections from each end of the element. Note: use some type of clamp to hold the wires from pulling back into the outer section of the oven. I used wooden clothespins). Reverse the process to install new element. Broiler element - I placed the shipping container over the new baking element to protect it. Then removed the four screws holding the top element to the back of the oven ( Philips head). Take care to mark the 4 wires for the broiler element. ( 2 for outer coil & 2 for inner coil) Clamp these wires also after disconnecting. Slide the 2 "L" shaped hangers out of there slots. When installing the new element connect the wires first then slide the "L" shaped hangers back into the slots. reinstall the 4 screws and your done. I did the repair with out removing the oven door ( ours is difficult to get back on ) with the door off the job will take less time and access will be easier.
I got the new wheel and screwed it in by hand. It took like 4 minutes total between taking out the drawer, screwing the new wheel on, and putting the drawer back in
I did the repair following your instructions and it went very well. Now the temperature is working good , but the oven is heating up very slow. So now what should I do to fix the oven?
