JSD2488DEQ Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Removal of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.

Jenn-air jcd-2389gtw refridgerator/freezer side by side ice door would not open to dispense ice from the ice dispensor I did an online order for the repair kit #ps2003478 (115v) ice dispenser solenoid and door kit to fix the problem with the ice door not opening. As I had deduced, the “solenoid” had gone bad, and the kit held most all the items required to make the repair. The only additional item the kit needs to have is the “fountain door return spring”. Be careful not to loose the spring when disassembling the unit. You might want to order an additional spring just in case you loose or break the original. The instruction sheet was pretty thorough, except for being small and the pictures hard to see. My refrigerator/freezer has decorative panels that had to be removed before I was actually able to get the escutcheon off of the unit, and this configuration wasn’t addressed in the instructions. After figuring out that I had to remove all the trim from the door of the freezer before I could start the repair, the job wasn’t that difficult, but you have to have patience and take your time to make sure you don’t damage the electrical components of the ice dispenser. Make sure you note the position and location of the fountain door return spring before you remove the ice door!! This is important so that you can get the correct “tension” when reinstalling the mechanism. If there isn’t enough tension on the spring, the door will not seal properly, and the dispenser will freeze up. Also, when it comes time to disconnect the “electrical edge connector” from the control panel, be sure to make note of it’s position. It isn’t difficult to pull off, but could be easily broken if you are not careful. The rest of the repair and installation is straight forward and simple. Just take your time and it goes back together pretty easily. Tools you will need are; needle nose pliers, phillips screwdriver with a small and medium bit, and a “torx” tool set to remove the torx screws from the escutcheon and fountain bracket.

Several days back I found I couldn't get any ice from the ice maker. I was able to hear noise from the ice maker but no ice would dispense. I opened the freezer and removed the ice bucket to find out that the Auger has broken off from it's plastic housing in the back of the freezer. I went to partselect.com to find the part(s) that were broken, it was much easier because of the diagram/images they have for each individual section of the fridge. Parts came quickly and as expected.

The replacement of the auger motor is very easy if you follow these steps:

1 - Remove the ice bucket from the freezer
2 - Unscrew the one screw on the bottom left side of the ice bucket tray (the tray holds the ice bucket in place). I used a small needle nose plier to remove this screw as I was having a hard time with my drill or wrench set. After you've removed the one small screw, lift the tray up and slowly pull towards you.
4 - You'll quickly see that the auger motor and magnetically controlled yoke are connected with a wire harness to the back of the freezer.
5 - Gently crimp the ends of the wiring harness connector with your hand and slowly pry away from the freezer. Once you've removed the wiring harness you can remove the entire tray with the parts attached (yoke/auger)
6 - Unscrew the auger motor from the tray. You'll also have to remove the auger from the motor else it won't come out. In my case the whole plastic attachment was broken so I didn't have to do this (ie I replaced the ice tray as well). It was impossible for me to remove the auger from the auger motor, not sure why the auger was so tightly attached to the motor - it could be the reason the auger motor broke from the ice tray?, so I had to buy a brand new auger motor and auger (ie Auger Drive Motor Kit). I hope you have more luck then I did removing the auger. If you can't remove it you'll need to buy the Drive Motor Kit (which comes with the drive motor, detached auger and auger washer).
7 - Once/if you've removed the auger from the motor and remove the motor from the ice tray, you can proceed with the replacement of motor.
8 - Using needle nose pliers remove the three power connections on the motor (white/neutral?, pink/power?, green/ground, note where the connections were when you removed them because you'll replace them in the same place on the new motor).
9 - Attach new motor to ice tray with the four screws, attach the auger and auger washer to the auger motor, attach the power connections back (white, pink, green).
10 - Re-connect the wire harness to the back of the freezer
11 - Move ice tray back into place, and attach the one screw back to the ice tray to hold it in place.
12 - Replace the ice bucket back onto the ice tray
13 - Done, you should now get ice!

Good luck, I hope this helps. It's easy and you don't have to pay three times this price to replace these ice bucket parts.

Replaced old dual outlet water valve with new design, which eliminates the (reportedly) troublesome "y" connector. A relatively simple matter of unplugging the refrig., turning off the water that feeds the ice maker and removing the cardboard/fabric service panel at the bottom rear of the refrig. Removed one screw with a nutdriver, disconnected the valve from both lines and out came the old valve with little fanfare. Next, as I replaced the valve with the new and improved version, cut out the "y" connector and used the supplied union and tubing to connect to the existing water line (just upstream from where the "y" connector was). Then, as my water/ice dispenser was sticking "on", I went ahead and replaced the rubber activator and internal switch. This just required moving a few hex screws on the front part of the dispenser to gain access to the parts. A relative snap and now all is working well.

Defrost circuit was inside the control assembly inside the refrigerator so I snapped the two release clamps located to the rear of the assembly (lights and controls). Slid the whole assembly cover off and removed the lightbulbs and two screws right above them. In from of that is the temp switches and directional slider, removed the two screws holding that. With the four screws out, removed whole assembly and laid it dowm on the first shelf, defrost circuit is at the back right, easy change out but take note which way the 4 prong plug fits into the circuit board. Refrigerator was back to normal in about 6 hours.

The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.

I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.

I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator in less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!

I would definatly use partselect.com again.

I noticed that the thin plastic flap was missing. I squeezed the housing, unsnapped and pulled. INstalling the new part was just the reverse. No more frozen vegetables.

Simple. Removed all food and shelves from the door. Removed the top hinge, which allowed me to lift the door off the door closer. I layed it on the kitchen table on its front with the handle over the edge so it wouldn't cause a problem. Since I had it all apart I replaced both the top and bottom pieces of the door closer, and put a touch of grease on it. I then reassembled it in the reverse order. - The fountain spring and actuator pad were for a different problem with the fountain. It wouldn't shut off all the time because the actuator pad was getting stiff from time and use. I removed A/C power and turned off the water, then removed the front screws from the fountain cover. I then had easy access to the actuator pad, which only took a few minutes to replace. Careful when you pull the cover off, there are wires connected to it. Just don't forget to pull the plug out off the wall so you don't get killed!

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then unscrewed the four remaining screws with a star screwdriver and pulled the element out and disconnected the wire. I removed the part containing the solenoid, spring loaded holder and the plastic closer. I did not need to replace the solenoid or the spring loading device only the round circular piece that opens and closes the ice door. I just snapped it into the spring loaded part and replaced everything as I had removed it. It was very simple. Your need the star screwdriver though for removing the screws.

Turn off freezer.
Pull the shelves out of freezer.
Remove two screws that hold on back panel.
Melt ice off of cooling fins with hair dryer.
Remove heating element by unplugging heating element on top of fins, pull off wiring with small unit clipped to tubing, slide the wires out from the side of the fins, and pull off clip on the bottom of the cooling fins that holds heating element.
To install new part I just reversed these steps.

Defrosted coils with hair drier and after the freezer was turned back on the freezer cooled to 0 Deg. within 4 hours but coils collocted ice. Checked coil with ohmmeter OK replaced Defrost Assy. Repair was very easy and new replacment unit is sealed and the original is an open curcuit board. thanks for allowing me to share this with you!

This is the 2nd time I replaced the ADC, the freezer condenser was frosting up again and wouldn't keep the freezer or refrig cold. 1st part only lasted 6-months. The simple fact is that the ADC used in the Maytag as well as others is under designed; I purchased 2-this time, 1's a spare, and you know it going to need to be replaced again. Sadly I'm stuck with this Refrigerator for at least 2-years before I buy another, it's only 5-years old. From my experience (with other Maytag products I've purchased recently) I'd never buy another Maytag product, ever! Since Whirlpool bought Maytag, I'm taking Whirlpool off my list too. Thanks Partselect for such a speedy delivery on the part everything back to normal, at least for now, wished I knew how long this ADC will last?

I rolled the fridge forward and removed the cardboard backer plate. Listening to the the compressor click in failed attempts to start, I was hoping it was just a failed relay.

I unplugged the fridge,took a photo of the wiring and removed each wire from the relay. Removing the relay from the compressor took some effort. (Pull hard or pry loose with a screw driver as it is a snug fit.) Shaking the failed part gave the sounds of a baby's rattle so ordered the replacement kit.

The parts received were quite different that the original. Rather than a modular plug, the kit consists of the two components a wire jumper and a large plastic housing. Perhaps there will be less heat build up and this will last longer.

The directions were straight forward, but the black & white photos had little contrast and some details were hard to make out. The wiring color scheme in the instructions did not match my unit. Checking the on-line wiring plans confirmed that it had also been missing a ground wire to the compressor all these years -- yikes! After plugging in the two components to the compressor and connecting the wires and adding a ground, I aligned the plastic housing over the connections. The cover did not snap into place with any authority, but appears to be secure.

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

This repair was relatively easy due to the instructions provided and took about 15 minutes. Originally, I had bought a door flap thinking that was the problem (a small plastic piece on the flap had broken off) but after replacing that the assembly still would not allow ice flow. I then purchased the kit including solenoid and the repair worked. I had a bad solenoid all along. My suggestion is to replace the entire kit rather than one part as it is likely all parts need replacement.