JMW8330DAW Jenn-Air Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Removed 2 screws securing bake element, pulled element clear with wires still attached, then removed the wire push terminals. Attached terminals to new bake element and reinstalled. Extremely simple.

I removed the single screw on each side of the oven by the hinge to remove the hinge cover plate and expose the hinge opening. I lifted off the glass oven door up and out and set it on my work bench. The door is heavy because its glass so make sure the doors on the way to the garage are open to your work bench area. I installed the cover plates back on so i would not loose the little covers and screws. I removed the screws all around the door and set them in a cup and lifted up the inner part of the door and the hinges are exposed. After removing the screws that hold on the hinges it lifted right out. I cleaned all the glass and set the new hinges in and locked them down with the screws and installed back the inner part of the door to the outer part and returned all the screws back. I then removed they screws on the hinge covers. I did not loose them with 4 kids running around and lifted the door back into the hinge openings and pushed down and it locked in. I then put a little pressure down on the door and removed the little locking pins. I pushed the door all the down and installed the hinge covers back on and it works beautiful. I think the new hinges are better than the set that came with the Jenn-Air wall oven. Thanks Parts Select. Also the new hinges came in 3 days as promised.

Removed 4 small star head screws from back of microwave, lifted body off, removed blown fuse and replaced with new one (found where cord enters). This model is stainless inside and out and I like it a lot. It is also sold by Daewoo and a few other manufacturers.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

I mistakenly thought I had to remove the microwave to get to the back, not so. I would have had access to what I needed to unscrew; but I have to admit the hassle of taking it down and putting it back equals having to work on it attached to the shelf-your call on how you do this. I unscrewed the front top to remove the vent piece that is across the top front of the microwave. This will reveal the control panel screw. (While you have the vent removed you might want to clean the vent and the exposed filter.) carefully lift and pull out control panel. I unplugged a piece as the wires were tied tight. It will not completely detach, so carefully tip it back from exposed insides. The fuse is not clear but white with silver ends so look in upper right for it. I popped it out and replaced it. Replugged the wired part to cover and carefully fit tabs in and slide down to secre. Replace screw, replace vent piece and secure screws on top of microwave. I plugged it in to test before putting it back above my stove.

Sunday, four days before Thanksgiving, our oven would not bake properly. A quick check indicated the top element was not working. What to do? Where to get a part in time to fix for Thanksgiving dinner? The answer was easy - PartSelect. I had the part in my hands on Tuesday AM. Oven was fixed in 15 minutes and my wife was baking pies within an hour. All worked well and yes, we had a wonderful trukey dinner. Great service !

Removed control panel, discharged HV capacitor. Removed old diode, tested to confirm failure. Replaced part. Other than the removal of the panel swapping the part was almost as easy as replacing a light bulb.

The high voltage tired was shorted. I replaced it with a new one, but that did not solve the problem.

You can test the high voltage tired with a voltmeter and a 9 V battery. Search Search for it on YouTube.

You can also test the high voltage capacitor, the high-voltage transformer, and the magnetron with a multi meter. Search for the procedures on YouTube.

I tested all these high-voltage components with a low-voltage multi meter, and they all checked out OK (after replacing the diode). However the microwave still did not heat food.

When working on a microwave it is important to unplug it and also discharge the high voltage capacitor. The capacitor has a 10 megaohm resister to automatically discharge itself, but it may have failed – – so discharge it manually.

In the end I ordered a new microwave.

Took longer to turn off the power than replace the element ,, crazy the appliance company would charge $180.00 for a 3 minute job.

I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

When I removed the bottom bake element and tested it with an ohm meter, it was an open circuit. Once the new one arrived, I simply had to hook up the two leads, screw the cover back on the back of the oven and the job was done.

Remove the screws from bottom of door to gain access to the hinge screws. Remove the bottom hinge screws and then open the door to gain access to the top hinge screws. CAUTION after removing the top screws close the door as far as possible while still griping the sides of the door. Pull up on the sides to remove the door from the stove. The springs are fully loaded if you have the door open all the way and try to lift up (like I did) the hinge will spring back and get your finger. Install the new hinge, put the door back into the oven, install all the screws and then remove the temporary rivet that comes installed in the new hinge.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.