(turn off the breaker to the oven.)take the eight screws that hold the oven in the wall out. then cut a piece of wood about 3/4" square 29 3/4" long to hold the oven out away from the wall while changing the control panel. there is four screws below the control panel to remove. lift the panel towards you and raise it up . disconnect the wires carefully. set the panel on a counter and remove the four screws that hold it in place. change the control board and reverse the process. turn the breaker back on and you are done. very simple job,
I slide the oven out from the counter and unpluged it. I removed all the oven racks. I then removed the machine screws that held the sheet metal that covered the back of the unit. This made it a lot easier to disconnect the long oven sensor wire and put the wire through the insulation. I removed the two screws on the inside of the oven that held the sensor onto the inside rear wall of the oven. The old sensor did not test too bad but the temperature is reaching the set temperature. I still had to adjust the oven temp up ten degrees using the control panel. I have learned that it takes a few cycles of the element going off and on during the warming to reach the desired set temperature. One more issue is that the buzzer goes off signaling that the set temperature has been reached when it has not. When I set it for 350 F the buzzerr goes off at 280 F and I have a good oven thermometer. I own three oven thermometers and they all read the same. We use to have nothing but Maytag appliances but no more. We have had issues with Maytag front loading washers and ranges. PartSelect is great. Good prices and fast delivery.
Our oven quit working again. I called the repair(dealer) man and he said we needed a new control panel. It would cost $180.00 and labor would be $60. The total repair would be $240.00. We considered just purchasing a new one. It is a slide-in range and they start at about $1500. So I began looking for a control panel on line. I found your web site and entered what was wrong with the oven. Your site suggested we try replacing the oven sensor. There was a video that showed how simple the repair was. We ordered the part. It came quickly and I immediately made the repair (about 10 min). I was very disappointed that it did not work. I went back to you web site and tried the next option. It was a terminal block for only $20.00. I didn't even know what a terminal block was, what it looked like or where on the range to find it. But I went again to your video and I learned quickly what to do. I ordered the part and it came in two days. I made the repair in about 15 min. My wife was very happy that the repair worked. Our total cost was about $80. The $240 quote would not have fixed the oven anyway. The repairman was wrong. I was very happy with the results and the money we saved.. Good Job PartSelect and thanks.
I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
We had a wood tray in the oven (yes i know) and it is a two stacked oven and turned the wrong oven to broil. The fire was put out quickly but the Latch door switch and assembly was damaged. The 3D breakout of the appliance made it a jiffy to select the correct part numbers. Shipping is very good from Parts Select. The Front assembly for the lower oven comes out with 6 screws. Disconnect the Door Switch Connector push it out and replace that. The Latch Assembly requires a small wrench. It is a bad design but patience will get you there. Once the assembly is out disconnect electrical connectors. Don't worry each connector is unique I advice do it one for one. Overall you need a skill of three stars out of five to complete this task
Turned power off to the unit at the breaker. Opened oven door and removed ( 4 ) Phillips Head screws. Carefully lifted control panel and unplugged 3 flat cables carefully. Placed unit on a soft cloth and removed ( 4 ) 1/4" screws with nut driver. Install new unit and repeat the process in reverse.
Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!
First I checked the lower element. Resistance measured within range. Then I checked the temperature sensor. Again, resistance within range. So I decided it must be the relay board. I was very nervous given the price of the relay board. I ended up leaving the oven in place so it was a bit difficult reaching the relay board and noting where all the different wires went. After about 30 minutes and at first plugging one of the wires on the wrong position, the oven worked perfectly. I suspect I saved a lot of money having a repair person come to the house. Thanks for all the on-line help!