JES9860BAS Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

First i lifted the old cartridge out then i put the new one in and turned it on and it worked fabulously.

took no more than 30 seconds

Clearly, the oven gasket was not the cause of the problem.
The hinge replacements did not fix the problem. I think the problem was that the hinge's mating part inside the door had been deformed, perhaps by leaning on the door when fully opened. I compensated for that by placing two stacked magnets near the upper hinge mounting screw hole on the inside of the oven body. (0.75" screws , 8-24 or metric equiv., needed for the upper screw location.) This gave the hinge about 15 degrees of additional door tilting force. In addition, I added 6 ceramic magnets across the top of the door mating surface, kudos to that website. Now it pulls fully flush with the magnets.
Ceramic magnets are good to 400+ degrees and they come in boxes of 120 for $12.00.
I only had one oven as a sample, but I could see what I thought was deformation on the inside of the oven door where the hinges are inserted. In this case, I think that makes (only) hinge replacement futile.
Sorry if this solution does not fit your marketing desire, but I did leave the new hinges installed.

The contact spades were burned from 10+ years of use and the cook top module was worn. I disassembled the module, taped the top to protect the creamic cook top, sanded the metal and spray painted to restore the original white finish. On the bottom half I replaced one missing pop rivet and cleaned and spray painted the bottom to restore to the original black. When the contact spades arrived, I replaced the contact spades and reassembled the module. It now works and looks like it did when it was new.

I took out the side of the cooktop that did not work. I had to take off the bottom of the cooktop and checked where electricity was going and not going. Once I found the part that needed replacing, I went on the website, search for Jen-Air cooktops and model number. From the sketch on the website, I was able to order the part needed. I decided to get 2 in order to replace both parts at one time, just in case. The part arrived quickly and was easy to install. The most time I spent was taking the backside off the cooktop and cleaning it.

removed grill cartridge and replaced it with the new coil element cartridge.

It was like having a brand new range.

Thank you for your fast and reasonable service.

YOU WILL ALWAYS HAVE MY BUSINESS!

needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks

Should have been under the 'very easy' category, unscrew 2 screws, pull out old element, disconnect wires, reconnect new wires and screw back in. Unfortunately the right wire disconnected while pulling out the element, so I had to pull the the stove out, disconnecting vents in the process, then remove the back to be able to feed the wire back in thru the element hole . While back here I noticed that the reason the wire came off is that the way it was routed behind the stove cover was such that there was virtually no slack to be able to pull the element out in the first place. I'll bet that at the factory, the element was installed first, THEN the wires were connected. Whoever was on the line that day made extra sure of no slack in back, and that made the job take 5-6 times longer than it should have. As for the part replacement, it was a perfect match to the original part so it was super easy once the wire got back in the oven...

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

I placed my order online and received the replacement parts the very next day - thank you so much!!
The hardest part of this repair job was removing it from the boxes! Pulling out the old cartridge and inserting the new was as easy as could be!

This was an extremely simple repair. No screws, no nothing. If you can plug in a lamp, you can swap out this part just as easily.

Easy peasy...1. Take 2 screws out to remove the back cover. 2. Unplug the 2 wires from the element. 3. Remove the 2 screw holding the element from inside the oven and take out the old element. Repeat the steps above in reverse order.

Openning the box was the most time consuming and difficult part of the install. The actual replacement took less than a minute for each unit. It was plug in and ready to cook. Lifted the old unit up and out and the new ones slid right in. It looks like a new stove top now. P. S. Delivery was very fast!!!

I was told that we needed a new stove at an estimated cost of $3900. I decided to google the parts that were not working after I was able to identify the Part number & model. I was first advised to look at Lowes, which I did and was not successful. I did another web search the Part Select site came up. At first I was able to find the part, but the color. A simple phone call and a helpful (Human) voice at the other end gave me a new model number and in less than 5 minutes I had made my order. Total cost $368.00 including shipping and handling. My stove is working like new. Total savings $3500 and change. Satisfaction 100%. I have placed the web site in the must have category.

Blower motor stopped working and the breaker tripped. Horrible smell! from the somewhere in the oven. Looking at the wiring diagram told me that there was a relay board feeding he motor, but I had no idea where it was, which took a little Internet searching to find it. Finally seeing that it was in the rear I was happy to see that there was enough flexible gas line to pull out the stove enough to check the board, which was fried. I replaced the board and then looked for the reason it smoked and found that the blower motor was shorted (and stank horribly).
It was straighforward to replace, but when I put everything back, NOTHING worked at all - no lights on the control panel, nothing. I then checked the voltage across the terminals and saw 240V and was puzzled until saw that there was no 120V to neutral where the plug connected to the back of the stove. The outlet, however, had 120V to neutral. Since it was a molded plug I thought that was not likey to be a cmmon failure, so after killing th breaker I took off the outlet cover that the stove plugged into and found out that the neutral terminal was intermittent.
The neutral contacts were not grabbing the netral terminal on the plug tightly enough and were a little discolored in one spot. All that moving around of the plug while moving the stove probably moved it just enough not to work at all - that thing was a fire hazard that I'm surprised hadn't been the cause of more damage in a house only 12 years old. Rather than try and clean the termnals and trust bending them to be tighter (and worry about metal fatigue) I spent the $10 so that I could sleep better for a tight new 240V 30A outlet.
Everthing works like a charm now.

Opened the box and placed new cover over grill.