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Models > JCD2289AES > Instructions

JCD2289AES Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for JCD2289AES parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the JCD2289AES
31-45 of 784
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Side by side refer. Refer side not cooling enough

  • Customer: Robert from Brunswick, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 23 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
Fan motor was blowing air and was confusing but replaced motor and found that it was not blowing enough. It took two screws in the freezer side to expose the evaporator and it's fan. The fan slides out after disconnecting three wire plug ins and then the motor can be swapped.

Freezer Iced Up/Refrigerator Warm

  • Customer: ROY from TORRANCE, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Defrost circuit was inside the control assembly inside the refrigerator so I snapped the two release clamps located to the rear of the assembly (lights and controls). Slid the whole assembly cover off and removed the lightbulbs and two screws right above them. In from of that is the temp switches and directional slider, removed the two screws holding that. With the four screws out, removed whole assembly and laid it dowm on the first shelf, defrost circuit is at the back right, easy change out but take note which way the 4 prong plug fits into the circuit board. Refrigerator was back to normal in about 6 hours.

The drive ring broke which kept the bin from despensing ice.

  • Customer: Robert from Groveport, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screws from the front of the ice bin which freed up the drive mechanism. I then removed the drice ring and replaced it with the part from Parts Select and then replaced the screws on the front. A very simple procedure.
The chill department door was an easy snap in replacement..

I would like to add that I was very pleased with Parts Select. Locating the parts I needed was very easy and I received them the next day. When The door first broke I was told I would have to replace
the whole assembly which I was not willing to do
at a quoted price of about $350.00. Needless to say I was very happy to locate Parts Select and was very pleased with everything. I have since told family and friends about Parts Select.

The part that closes with the solenoid broke off and did not close the ice maker

  • Customer: Karen from Rocky River, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then unscrewed the four remaining screws with a star screwdriver and pulled the element out and disconnected the wire. I removed the part containing the solenoid, spring loaded holder and the plastic closer. I did not need to replace the solenoid or the spring loading device only the round circular piece that opens and closes the ice door. I just snapped it into the spring loaded part and replaced everything as I had removed it. It was very simple. Your need the star screwdriver though for removing the screws.

Vegetables kept freezing regardless of temp setting.

  • Customer: John from Leominster, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 19 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
I noticed that the thin plastic flap was missing. I squeezed the housing, unsnapped and pulled. INstalling the new part was just the reverse. No more frozen vegetables.

Ice Maker broke at the begining of summer !!!!!!

  • Customer: Darrell from Pepperell, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.

I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.

I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator in less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!

I would definatly use partselect.com again.

Feezer and Refrig. not cold

  • Customer: Donald from Crystal River, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Defrosted coils with hair drier and after the freezer was turned back on the freezer cooled to 0 Deg. within 4 hours but coils collocted ice. Checked coil with ohmmeter OK replaced Defrost Assy. Repair was very easy and new replacment unit is sealed and the original is an open curcuit board. thanks for allowing me to share this with you!

Motor for turning coil that ejects the ice detached from the ice enclosure due to cracked plastic on the enclosure.

  • Customer: John from Virginia Beach, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
1. Removed ice bin.
2. Removed vertical panel next to ice bin by sliding two top supports off of support posts and pulling the panel out and up.
3. Removed screw on left side holding ice enclosure in place.
4. Pull ice enclosure out about six inches and tip back end down exposing electrical connector.
5. Detach the electrical connector by pressing the release tabs on the top and bottom of the connector.
6. Removed ice eclosure by pulling it up and out.
7. Detached motor (4 screws) and relay (4 screws) from plastic enclosure. Make sure to keep track of screw positions since they are not all the same size. Use same positions to reassemble.
8. Hold shaft of motor with needle nose vise grips and remove the "U" shaped end piece by turning it clockwise. A sharp rap with a screwdriver handle breaks it loose. Pay attention to the orientation of the washer under the "U" shaped piece (the raised inner edge next to the shaft goes against the "U" shaped piece.
9. Attach the motor and relay to the new ice enclosure paying attention to the screw position.
10. Put the washer on the motor shaft (raised side up) and screw on "U" shaped piece (counter-clockwise).
11. The rest of the installation is a reversal of the removal process.

Ice maker stopped working

  • Customer: Ronald from Chardon, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Since I had no water in the try I started with the valve first. That did not fix the problem so I replaced the Ice Maker assembly however that still didn't solve my problem. The only thing left was the relay that entergized the valve. The part number shows NLA so I googled the part number on the relay and found one at Mouser Electronics under PN:G2R-1A-T-AC120. The whole project took me several days to solve however the actual time involved was only about 1 hour.

Old Icemaker noisy and stopped making Ice

  • Customer: Daniel from Rhinelander, WI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 16 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
The old icemaker had a bad motor and would stall in the fill cycle causing my kitchen to flood on occasion.

The new one was so quiet, I thought it didn't work!

Anyway, one nutdriver and 5 minutes and I had the new one in there... It is so quiet, and I always have plenty of ice now!!!

Thanks!!!

control board shorted out making it inoperative

  • Customer: Stan from Clovis, NM
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
removed ice and water dispenser to get to control board and removed two screws and electrical plug and two other wires and remove c/b then replaced c/b and all wiring and screws put it back togather in appro. 25 to30 mins.

Freezer condenser frosting up - 2nd ADC purchased

  • Customer: Edward from Landing, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
This is the 2nd time I replaced the ADC, the freezer condenser was frosting up again and wouldn't keep the freezer or refrig cold. 1st part only lasted 6-months. The simple fact is that the ADC used in the Maytag as well as others is under designed; I purchased 2-this time, 1's a spare, and you know it going to need to be replaced again. Sadly I'm stuck with this Refrigerator for at least 2-years before I buy another, it's only 5-years old. From my experience (with other Maytag products I've purchased recently) I'd never buy another Maytag product, ever! Since Whirlpool bought Maytag, I'm taking Whirlpool off my list too. Thanks Partselect for such a speedy delivery on the part everything back to normal, at least for now, wished I knew how long this ADC will last?

Constant running, ice build-up in evaporator, fridge side warm

  • Customer: James from Scotts Valley, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Simple parts replacement. The temp control was a bit tricky as it involved replicating the bends of the tiny tubing for the sensor coil, but everything is so modular that it was not that difficult.

Freezer defrosted while doing the control repairs, it had a lot of ice stuck in the evaporator because the defrost function was not working.

The worst part of all this was moving the food and making sure it did not spoil.

water and ice dispenser would not work

  • Customer: Carole from Magalia, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
I hired a repairman and it just took him a few minutes to take off the dispenser panel and install the parts. He put everything back and the green light came on. We drew out a couple of glasses of water and everything seemed to work fine. Then before he left he said "let's try it one more time". He put a glass under the water dispenser, pushed the button, something popped and would not work. He took the panel off again and checked the new part and the control board was burned out. It had a black mark on it. We don't know what happened and neither of us know how to find out what happened. Could you please help me. Thank you, Carole Prinz

Hollow Ice Cubes, Stuck Icemaker & no more cubes

  • Customer: Jonathan from Scottsdale, AZ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
We have a Reverse Osmosis water filter supplying the fridge, so the internal water filter only served to reduce the water pressure inside the unit. I installed the bypass plug by simply twisting and removing the internal water filter and then twisting the plug up into the same hole. Done in 5 min.
Longest part of this was clearing the top shelf to reach back there... Oh, and figuring out that this part exists and that it could help with the problems we were having with the unit. The water filter is relatively new, less than six months, but it still contributed to the problem enough to cause the failure.
[Thank you Partselect.com for having this web database set up that gets EXACTLY the right part!].

Now about the hollow cubes: Do a web search and you'll find a lot of discussion about it. This is specific to the Whirlpool (Maytag, and others) newer style front to back icemakers that create "half moon" shaped icecubes. For a Shop Manual to a web search for 4316835.pdf for this series.
No doubt my old unit's icemaker solenoid valve on the back isn't passing as much pressure as it did new, but by itself it isn't fatal just yet. You can tell if you are vulnerable to this if the water spigot on the front only delivers a very slow trickle of water; if it takes a l o n g t i m e to fill a glass.

But here is the rest of the story: There is a fundamental design flaw in the way the icemaker unit was created that makes it malfuntion if the water pressure is too low - they chose to put the thermocouple (TC) that senses the temperature of the freezing cube on the opposite end (front) of the water tray from the water fill tube which fills from the rear. This was probably a manufacturing trade off for simplicity of assembly and it saved them half a cent's worth of copper wiring and a couple of screws. And maybe a safty concern about wiring under an open water channel, but that is a lousy excuse; there are other solutions, and the power "harness" goes right by there within a couple of inches anyway...

There are a number of reasons for low pressure:
- Bad supply inlet valve, or not open all the way, crimped tubing
- Bad Frige icemaker solenoid valve
- Clogged internal water filter (even just a little)
- Frozen ice plug in the fill tube, in the very back top of the unit against the back (use a hair dryer to defrost)
- Etc. Do some more web research for more details.
Of course the icemaker timers do fail as well, so this discussion assumes the icemaker is still functioning as "normally" as it can, given its design limitations.

The interaction with water pressure (design flaw!) is this: if the unit doesn't get enough water due to low pressure, then the final cube position to fill doesn't get any water in it (the front one by the motor). This is the one that the TC is next to as well, so it cools of really quickly and the TC thinks the tray is completely frozen, when in fact it isn't. The TC fires the cycling motor which turns on the heater and then spins the ejector shaft which has tabs that push the half moon shaped cubes around and out. However, since the cubes weren't fully frozen, only their outer shell gets pushed out - the water in the middle drains out leaving a hollow cube set. That liquid water hits the cold ejector bars and some of it immediately freezes, making little stalactite fingers that catch on the tabs and side of the tray, thus jamming the ejector shaft and pausing the cycle in place indefinitely.
The net is that you get a few hollow cubes and then no more ice until you reach in and crack off the ice fingers so shaft tabs can pass and the motor can finsh the cycle and properly stop in its home position. You can also tell by checking whether the front cube location has water in it just after it fills by reaching around and dipping your finger in it. If it comes up dry, then you have this problem.
So, in my case, putting the bypass plug in increased my flow t
All Instructions for the JCD2289AES
31-45 of 784