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Broken rear drawer support
Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.
RE: 2 yr. old GE double wall oven with convection option in upper oven, non-convection in lower oven: baked goods were not browning, were undercooked or burned. Tested both ovens on regular bake setting using 2 oven thermometers. Set ovens for 350. Although after 10 min both ovens beeped "ready", the oven thermometers actually read 200 - then would swing up as high as 500 and as low as 200 during the 20 min test period. Decided to first replace top oven sensor only, just in case it really was a more expensive control panel problem. It was a bit awkward to reach back there with the oven door in the way, but I have long arms! Aimed my flashlight, removed nuts with a socket wrench, pulled out the sensor, popped the clip and the old sensor easily separated from its connection. Snapped on the new sensor, pushed it back in and reset the nuts. Easy. Set the oven for 350 and tested again with 2 oven thermometers for 45 min. Voila! The oven thermometers read exactly 350 when the oven beeped "ready" and it stayed at 350 throughout the entire 45 min retest period with only a 3 degree variation both up and down. What a great improvement! Immediately went online to Parts Select and ordered another sensor for the bottom oven which was having the same problem. Fixed both ovens all for under $30 - and just in time for Christmas cookies! Don't want to know what the repair guy would have charged.......Merry Christmas!
burner would not light because spark was skiping to ground elsewhere
First I removed two screws holding head in place and carefully lifted assembly up using flat screwdriver. I separated old igniter from feed wire with gentle pull. I reversed assembly after cleaning old gasket residue. torque screws back in place after cleaning with small ss wire brsh in dremel tool. Tighten in steps to firm light touch. I used new gashket and ignitor.
This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported. - works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.
Turn off the power to the oven. (There should be a circuit breaker in the main power panel dedicated to just the oven) (the oven should be cool to the touch). Open and remove the door by pulling it up and off the hinges (this is best accomplished with a helper). Remove the racks (wire shelves). Remove the two 1/4" mounting screws that secure the heating element to the back and the two screws that secure the element to the top of the oven.. Gently pull the wires out and disconnect them from the heating element. Now reverse the process. Connect the wires to the new heating element in the same fashion as they came off. Push the wires and heating element back in place and secure with the four screws. Replace the wire racks (shelves). Replace the door (again, this is best accomplished with a helper). Turn the power back on. Run a test of the broiler to make sure the repair was completed properly. voila!