J2S968BEKB General Electric Range - Instructions

Used scribe to remove grate foot plug still in grate inserted new foot.

Turn the glass enclosure counterclockwise to expose bulb.Turn the power off at circuit breaker panel.Handle the bulb carefully with paper towel covering the bulb.Push the bulb in socket.replace glass enclosure,turn power back on.

First remove the screws around the inside perimeter of the door. These require a special hex driver. Take off the inside plastic liner of door.
Peal off the old Insulation Foam Strip and replace it with the new strip in the same location. Make sure the wires are off to the right side. Replace the door plastic liner. Done. The Insulation Foam Strip really acts more like a loose gasket to keep spashing from creeping under the door and drippin out on the floor.

I ordered the spark module and replaced it which was veru simple, plugged it in and it sparked only now and again. I finally said forget it and it has now stopped sparking but for how long I do not know.

I unplugged the defective plug and replaced it with the new one. Took 5 min total

Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."

Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.

New burner Heads repaired the two yellow burning units. I believe heat caused the old heads to become. warped over time.

This was and always will be an easy fix, all I have to do is get my ice pick and pick the broken rubber part stuck in the hole if it does not break clean and fall out. Not much more I can say about this simple problem.

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

Turned off the circuit breaker. Removed 5 screws. Unplugged the heating element and then plugged in the new one and replaced the 5 screws. Very simple.

turned oven off, pulled oven out from wall, removed back of oven, unscrewed sensor from oven replaced with new sensor, put back on, turned power to oven on, tried oven at 425, my temp. gage and the oven temp matched. a very easy fix.

Simply removed drawer and lined up the newsupports. Made sure the guide pin was lined up and installed with single screw

Backed off screws that held the burner base over the gas opening. Removed C ring and spring and slid out old igniter, cleaned base, inserted new igniter and replaced burner gasket, refastened base and the job was done. Repeated for other for burners. Easy.