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HSS25IFMCWW Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for HSS25IFMCWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the HSS25IFMCWW
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Flapper Door Stuck Open Allowing Ice Tube To Frost Shut

  • Customer: Joe from Maryville TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 75 of 81 people found this instruction helpful
I read in a previous post how to do the job from outside fridge which saved me lots of time. No need to remove inner door lining. Here is my procedure:
1.Turned off power. 2.Snapped off outside trim ring. 3.Located three small holes inside lip just above ice tube. The center hole was not used. 4.Pushed rather firmly up through two remaining holes with small Allen wrench to release front control panel. 5.Removed (3) wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out as lifting on retaining clip will break it off. I broke one & had to elect. tape it back in place later although I doubt it would have ever come off. 6.Release secondary panel by removing (4) screws. The problem was obvious as the solenoid had broken the crank arm off the flapper rod & trapped it open 7.Replaced solenoid, crank arm with flapper attached, spring & micro switch. Switch was okay but I changed anyway. 8.Cleaned all areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. 9.Re-installed evrything in reverse order & all is okay. Thanks to someone for telling about those two small holes. Made job easy versus a very hard one.

Evaporator motor sounded like wind in the trees howling

  • Customer: DOUG from MARYSVILLE OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 74 of 78 people found this instruction helpful
I had to remove all of the shelves.....part of the ice maker.....the rear cover over the freezer coils.....There were two wires that came from the back of the freezer that were also incorporated with the fan motor plug from the factory....This caused me to cut all of the wires from the new motor and soider them to the existing plug and shrink wrap the connections. If GE would have supplied two new ends I could have cut only those wires added the ends and inserted them into the new motor plug thus eliminating an extra hour and a soildering iron,,,,In my case not a big deal however not a project for those who have trouble with repairs using these type of tools.

Water would only trickle out at water dispenser, but was making ice.

  • Customer: Jim from Livonia MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 105 of 176 people found this instruction helpful
Since it was making ice I new there was water getting to the water valve on the fridge. I found the water valve on the back of the fridge, put a voltage tester on the water dispenser side of the valve, had someone push in the dispenser flap on the front of the fiidge and found there was 120v. That told me that the switch was good and pretty confident that the valve was bad.
Upon reeceiving the replacement valve I removed both electrical leads on the valve remembering witch side goes to which, turned the water line off, removed the water lines, matched them up to the new one, plugged the leads back in on the valve, turned water back on and tested. There will be a little air in the lines, but once that is out the water will flow at a steady stream.

Warm freezer and no ice

  • Customer: Paul from Suwanee GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 71 of 87 people found this instruction helpful
This story starts with a GE side-by-side refrigerator that has always had wide temperature swings and a temperamental water dispenser. The ice maker was not making ice, and the built in digital thermometer showed it was running warm. I suspected that the heat exchanger was full of dust and so looked there. What I found was that the condenser tank was hot to the touch and the fan wasn’t running. As an experiment, I aimed a fan at the it for a while I saw that the freezer temperature dropped back to normal.
.The fan is marked as 11.2 DC so I checked for voltage at the fan and found some. With three wires and no wiring diagram I wasn’t sure this answered all the questions, but hooking the fan to a 12 volt power supply didn’t get it to spin.
I priced parts at a couple websites before using partselect.com . They also have a good diagram to look at (Sears diagrams are really poor). I ordered the part with 2-day shipping; it arrived on time, was correct and fixed the problem.

Repeatedly stick in defrost, raising temps in fridge and freezer for hours at a time, some times for days. Repair tech was called out twice to look into this problem, but the temps returned to normal both times before he arrived, therefore, he never could diagnose the problem with a certainity as wh

  • Customer: Jerry from Otisco IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 61 of 65 people found this instruction helpful
The main board is easy to get to behind the access plate. You will find seven different wire harness plugs, six which are white, that are impossible to remove without breaking the retaining clips which hold them in place....but that's OK.....you are throwing away the old board anyway, so nothing lost. The plugs will snap back into each of their respective terminal locations without a problem. Be sure to treat the four white, plastic pins that hold the board in place delicately....you will not want to mess those little dudes up!

Water leaking under the refrigerator only when water was called from water dispenser

  • Customer: Chuck from Coraopolis PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 64 of 80 people found this instruction helpful
To do this repair, I shut off the water supply first. After removing the back panel, I disconnected the first water tank (PS291933) tube from the valve near the back of the refrigerator by pushing the white ringclamp towards the valve which released the tubing (once disconnected I could clearly see the hairline crack in the tube responsible for the water). I then disconnected the other water tank tube from the connector located in the bottom left front of the refrigerator. Then, after removing the bottom shelves and compartments, I unscrewed the two screws securing the water tank to the inside back wall. Then I carefully pulled the water tank and the tubing out from inside the refrigerator. The installation of the new water tank was essentially the reverse of the above, with the exception that I had to use a 2x4 to prop up the refrigerator and my 7-year old daughter's hand to help guide the tube to the front of the fridge. One of the lines did leak initially, but stopped after I removed and reconnected the tube more securely. My only unfinished business with this part of the repair (which I'm not losing sleep over) is I'm not sure where to find the 'insulation wrap' that was around the water tank tubes inside the fridge.

During my investigation of the water tank, I also noticed the tube on the outside back of the fridge going to the icemaker was leaking, so I bought a new grommet & tube (PS292253). Installation was easier than the water tank, but was more of a mystery until the part showed up and I saw that only adhesive tape was used to secure the grommet to the hole in the outside back of the freezer near the icemaker. Again, only had to disconnect the tube from the valve at the bottom of the fridge and pull out the grommet from the top outside. (I did remove the ice cube tray from the inside to avoid contaminating it during the work). Then I connected the new tubing and secured the grommet to the back of the fridge using the adhesive tape. So far no leaks!


I also will likely need to add that WR49X10173 part to hopefully avoid my water dispensor from freezing in the future.

Ice dispenser quit working and kept making a clicking sound

  • Customer: Ken from Gibson City IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 58 of 65 people found this instruction helpful
All you have to do is replace the circuit board which is really easy. Still kinda mad because the fridge is less than 2 years old. If you hear the clicking noise its coming from the circuit board.

Refrigerator stopped freezing and cooling frige

  • Customer: DAVID R. from BATH NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 57 of 62 people found this instruction helpful
Well, I first had a local service guy look at the frige. only to find out his opinion was to replace the entire unit, because the Mother board cost more than the unit was worth. Me not accepting that answer, decided to look on line for a part and availability as well as price. Surprise, Part Select had what I wanted. Now, on the back of the unit in the upper left hand corner is the access door for the mother board.Find it, but before proceeding disconnect the power supply from the wall receptacle. Remove the surrounding screws on the access door with a nut driver and the correct size METRIC socket. Disconnect the wiring connectors on both sides of the board. Now there are 4 plastic type (mine were white) retaining studs holding the board in place. BE CAREFUL not to break these as you gently pull the board off studs. Replace board with new one, and restore wire connectors in their perspective places. Each connector has a different amount of pins inside so connecting them is easy. I know nothing about refrigeration, and this was a piece of cake. Less than 15 min. Unit cools like never before!!!

Refrigerator would not get cold although condensor fan worked. The compressor did not come on.

  • Customer: Don from Philomath OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 58 of 67 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the capacitor first but the compressor still did not come on. After trying the new capacitor I removed the old board( marked the connectors just in case) then installed the new board. The major difference on the new board was the grounding wire which was simple to connect. The old board didn't have one. Once installed everything worked fine. The directions were easy to follow. I ordered the parts late Sunday night and I received the parts by Wednesday! That was fast. Thanks for the help, and this was much cheaper than calling the appliance service.

refrigerator was getting too cold

  • Customer: Larry from Menomonie WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 60 of 75 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the old temperature sensor by cutting the wires. I attached the wires of the new sensor with wire nuts and mounted it in the same bracket.

Water continuously pours out of the icemaker

  • Customer: Noel from San Jose CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 52 of 57 people found this instruction helpful
A week earlier, we had frozen water all over the freezer section which obviously dripped from the icemaker. We turn off the icemaker and cleaned the freezer. Upon turning the icemaker back on, water continuously pours out of the ice tray. This time, even turning off the icemaker does not stop the water from flowing through. I checked and cleaned the water valve, reinstalled it and it still does not work. I had to crimp the water line and even remove the water filter to make sure there will be no water leaks.

When I got the new water valve, installation was a snap as I have already removed the old one. After installing the new valve and putting back the filter, everything is back to normal.

Procedure for removing/replacing the water valve:
(1) Unplug the refrigerator and move it so that you have some working space in the back. If there is a mechanical valve in the water line, close it so that when the hoses are unplugged, there will be no spills. If there is no mechanical water valve, you can simply crimp the hose with a rubber band or a cable tie.
(2) Use an adjustable wrench or a screw driver to remove the screws on the bottom panel. My refrigerator has 4 big screws and 1 small one that is used to anchor the water hose.
(3) Pull the panel up slightly to remove it. The water valve is mounted with one screw at the bottom-left corner.
(4) Use a screwdriver to dismount the water valve.
(5) Unplug the electrical connections to the water valve. My refrigerator has one Brown and one Blue connector. Remember which plug goes to which connector.
(6) Place a towel under the water valve and use the adjustable wrench to remove the main hose connection.
(7) Next, remove the hoses that to into the water valve outlets. On my refrigerator, these hoses are of different sizes and have quick-disconnects. I simply have to press on the collar at end of the hose, pushing it towards the valve to release the hose, then pull on the hose.
(8) Prepare the new water valve by removing the plastic cover that protects the connector for the main water line.
(9) Connect the main water line to the new valve using the adjustable wrench.
(10) Connect the two hoses of different sizes to the valve. You only have to push them all the way into each valve and slightly tug on them to make sure they are locked in place.
(11) Re-connect the Brown and Blue electrical connectors to their original location.
(12) Mount the new water valve into the back of the refrigerator (one screw).
(13) If possible, quickly check that the new valve is working properly: If you have a mechanical valve in the water line, open it and make sure there are no leaks near the valve or inside in the icemaker. You may have to plug in the refrigerator power to complete the initial test.
(14) Replace the back panel with the 4 screws and anchor the hose to the back with 1 screw.
(15) Once everything is back in its place and the refrigerator is on, cycle the water dispenser several times to run fresh water into the hoses and the new valve.

Ice jamming up in the ice maker unit because auger was broken

  • Customer: Elaine from Healdsburg CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 51 of 56 people found this instruction helpful
Remove Ice maker bin from the refrigerator and empty. Unscrew the three Phillips head screws that secure the front plate to the bin and gently lift and pull the tab that secures the interior portion of the plate until it clears the bin. Once you remove the front plate, it will expose two side tabs on the front of the bin which must be depressed so that the plastic insert that hold the auger in place can be removed. Isolate the auger with the from the unit by rotating the parts off the shaft. The ice crushing blades are attached to the auger and can easily be removed by twisting the plastic nut off with pliers. The cutting blades will now slip off the end (make sure you study the orientation of the blades as each piece will come off separately and make the job unpleasant when you go to put it back together). Now that the auger is out, just reverse the process and you have a "new" ice dispenser. Works like a charm. The diagram furnished by PartSelect was very helpful and accurate if you get a bit lost, especially when putting the crushing blades back together.

Our refrigerator stops delivering ice both crushed and cube. The ice bin was full. I first thought the delivery motor was bad and then the water dispenser in the door stopped delivery. Decided at that point it was either the door panel swith board, cable or the main circuit board on the back of t

  • Customer: david from colleyville TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 51 of 57 people found this instruction helpful
After further diagnosis decided the main circuit board was the likely culprit. Ordered a new one from PartSelect. It came in 2 days and took less than 30 minutes to install. Unplugged the refrig. Removed the old board cover with a nut driver. Removed the wiring cables (note their location on the board) and also there were a couple of cable plugs on my refrig that were not not hooked to anything on the board. Snapped the old board out and the new board in. Reinstalled the cables and then the board cover. Plugged the refrig in and back in business. PartSelect is a great website! The speed of delivery and available information just saved me $500 to $600 from a appliance repair shop.

fan not running

  • Customer: Ray from Bensalem PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 55 of 71 people found this instruction helpful
Removed rear and front grills,brushed and vacuumed area- probably caused the fan motor to fail- unplugged fan, removed fan,motor,and shroud in 1 piece, carefully slipped fan off motor shaft, unscrewed shroud and motor. assembled in reverse order. Frige is in tight area, .I'll now roll it out and clean often

Sticking Light Switch

  • Customer: Jonathan from Lilburn GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 49 of 54 people found this instruction helpful
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
All Instructions for the HSS25IFMCWW
16-30 of 1,607