HSM25GFRESA Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

We were not sure if the problem was with the fan or the main control board after reading other posts with similar problems we decided the main control board was most likely the problem our unit is over 5 years old with heavy use. We left the fridge pulled away from the wall and put a medium size fan aimed toward the condensor, compressor area and that worked bringing the temperature down and the unit did shut off. This further assured us that it was probably the main control unit and we also figured with the units age the control board would eventually have to be replaced. It took several days to get the main control unit(not bad)and we left the fan in place during the wait. We watched the video read the instuctions and had just a small problem removing some of the wiring harnesses nothing major. Squeezed the plastic tabs with needle nose pliers my son pulled as I watched everything carefully came off well put the new one in place easily plugged all the wires back on you cannot put them in the wrong place do to the configurations plugged the unit back in and the fan went right to work. Put everything back together and the unit runs as quiet as it did when it was new the part was a little pricey but saved the cost of a repair man

A local appliance parts shop told me that GE refrigerators were notorious for bad control boards. The new one cost ~ $200, with express shipping. Removal and installation were easy and straight-forward. After the replacement, the refrigerator is working fine--for now.

Using a nut driver, I removed the panel that covers the freezer coil. Using wire stripper/cutters. I replace the Temperature sensor and Thermostat. I also replaced the heater element that comes on when the freezer goes into defrost mode. Worked like a charm. The original problem was the freezer compartment would thaw just enough to start the melting process then freeze everything and build up ice to the point where the ice that was produced from the ice maker would just turn into a big block of ice. Everything is working perfectly now with only an hours worth of work and about $75.00 in parts.

I suggest to take apart the ice bucket first. I did not do that and ended up pay 3 times for shipping. Be sure to save the thrust washer and "E" retainer as you are required to by 12 of each. Partsselect should package a complete auger repair kit. Kit should have 1. Auger 2.Crusher cover (usually break with auger) 3. Nut, thrush washer and clip. would save the do it your selfer a lot of confusion.

Replaced.

Took out old auger and installed new one

after removing screws you have to pry the plastic some to get the cover off. Then remove the cube/crush selector rod. The pull the cursher mechanism up untill it clears the case. Looks like plastic may crack but it doesn't. Remove cir-clip on end of auger, and disassemble mechasnism. Remember the Nut is LEFT HAND THREAD. Disgard old auger and reassemble with new auger.

Followed your video. In addition, put a couple wrappings of blue painter's tape around crusher knife assembly before removing nylon nut. Removed & replaced from shaft, as a single unit. Also, as I removed each screw, I put it back into the hole, and put a small piece of tape over the head, to keep the correct screw with the correct part. Yes, bending the plastic to remove the crusher unit took a lot of patience. Probably added half hour to the job.

Used a putty knife to pry trim up around dispensing unit. Look up behind bottom edge of control panel for three small holes.(use flashlight) Used a small (1/8") phillips screwdriver to press up in holes to release panel. Remove flapper unit and selenoid. I changed black rubber flapper and solenoid. The solenoid is designed to hold the flapper unit open to allow all the cubes to clear the chute and it then is closed by the small spring after the delay. Works fine!

Had to e-mail GE for electrical schematic. Checked voltages to compressor. Jumpered compressor to see if it would even come on. Found bad run capacitor. Fixed.

Removed screws holding parts to ice bin and depressed plastic locks on front end of the bin. Popped out the auger and ice crusher and dispenser steel vanes. Removed auger nut and auger. Replaced auger and nut and reassembled.

Identified very small stream of water shooting out of center of blue plastic housing where the icemaker/water dispenser hose connects to external water source. A flashlight up close made it possible to see the water stream, after removing the steel cover from the lower back of the refrigerator. You remove the black and white hoses by PRESSING in on the white plastic rings. I unplugged power before removing/reconnecting the 2 electrical connections with needle nose pliers. Replacing this thing stopped the leak, but I also had to change the circuit board to solve the icemaker water dispenser issues. I also replaced the vampire tap on the house supply line with a shut off valve so I could do this repair without shutting off the house water supply. I did have to shut it down to install the valve, but now I can shut off the refrigerator water supply when needed to replace the filter.

exactly as the instructions.......never did see anything about replacing the adapter...therefore i did not

Thanks to the video link I was able to make the repair with very little difficulty. Thanks for providing the video link.

I disassembled the housing surrounding the ice bucket auger and replaced the broken part with a new auger. I reassembled the housing, replaced the ice bucket, turned on the ice-maker and walla, back in business. A handy video on the web (site was mentioned in our receipt) would have been valuable to anyone without any mechanical skills.