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GU1100XTLQ1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for GU1100XTLQ1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GU1100XTLQ1
46-60 of 534
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The overhead water spinner became detached and fell off

  • Customer: Al from Yuma AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screw from the top water tube and then the upper screw from the vertical water tube at the back of the dishwasher. That gave enough flex to the tube assembly for access to the area I needed to get to, without having to remove it. Then I removed the old spinner retainer and installed the new one. I then snapped the spinner to the new retainer pin, put the tube back into position, and re-installed the screws -- and I was done.

Scratches in Surface

  • Customer: Michelle from Richardson TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Chopper not performing

  • Customer: Dale from Oldsmar FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I noticed some residue in the dishwasher so I decided to clean the chopper screen. I dismantled the screen and spray assemblies and removed the chopper. The chopper was extremely worn and the chopper washer/gasket was missing. I reassembled the parts I removed and as I was placing the screws in the screen assembly I dropped a screw into the impeller well. Since the screws are stainless I was forced to remove the whole motor assembly. Since I had to order a chopper I went ahead and ordered a motor assembly gasket for reassembly. The mistake I made was not ordering a drain valve at the same time for when I removed the valve to clean it the rubber separated. The dishwasher will not function without it. This is where PartsSelect really came through for me. The 2-3 day shipping came in 2 days and the drain valve which was really going to hold me up with standard shipping came the very next day! Way to go PartsSelect! Everything went back together just fine.

My dishes were not being cleaned

  • Customer: Molly from Huntsville AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I looked up the most common problem with this model and it was the chopper assembly. I removed everything down to this. Sure enough, mine was broken off and the screen was completely clogged with debris. It was not difficult to replace, but it did take me a few minutes to slide it in to place. Ladies, you can do this. No need to call a repairman! Look up the repair manual and see where the assembly is. I had no idea it was even there. My dishes are spotless now.

The ceramic seal had failed, allowing water to destroy the front motor bearing.

  • Customer: Jerome from Greensburg IN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Removed dishwasher from under the counter and took it to my shop. With the washer on its side, I removed the motor, then the impeller and seal. I then disassembled the motor and replaced the front bearing(purchased separately). This required an arbor press. I then reassembled the motor and installed the new seal and impeller. Reassembled in reverse order. Reinstalled under the counter and made conections. Checked for leaks and proper operation.

The dishwasher would not turn on

  • Customer: Mary Ellen from Fairfield VT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Very simple. We had to remove the screws holding the metal cover on the inside of the dishwasher to access the electrical panel. Then we disconnected the wires that were connected to the fuse kit, unclipped the kit from the panel, clipped the new one on, and replaced the wires. Then all we had to do was screw the metal cover back onto the inside of the door and it worked just fine.

Would not dry dishes

  • Customer: David from Arab AL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off power, turned off water supply and diconnected, slid out dishwasher. Removed the spray wand and tilted dishwasher to access the two nuts and disconnet the wires. Removed the two nuts using a socket. Removed the old heating element and replaced with the new one secured with new nuts ( the old ones were fine but since I bought two new ones why not). Pluged the wires back up slid the dishwasher back in hooked up the water reinstalled the spray wand cut on the water and power. Good as new.

Dishwasher's "clean" light just blinked - wouldn't run. Repairman came and found out problem and suggested I could fix it myself

  • Customer: Peter from San Diego CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Since I had watched a repairman diagnose the problem, it was eash to reproduce how to pull the unit out from the wall and find the faulty part to remove it and replace it with the new thermistor. Two wires to disconnect and connect and repair nearly complete. Pushed it back in, screwed it back to the cabinet and installed foot plate and done.

Dishwasher was making a loud noise during the wash cycle and it was getting worse with time. The bearing nearest the pump impeller was failing.

  • Customer: Jeff from Madison AL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnect the water supply, the drain line, and the two screws that go up into the cabinet frame, then pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. Tip the unit onto it's face and the main pump/motor is facing up. Turn off the power then unplug the electrical connector from the motor. Remove the single bolt at the base of the motor then turn the whole motor ~1/4 turn counter-clockwise. A firm pull will remove the motor/pump at this point.
The new motor/pump has a new seal. See that the arrows on the pump volute and the motor frame are lined up before inserting into the housing. The new motor/pump slides into the housing easily and a 1/4 turn clockwise will pull it in tight. Re-install the locking bolt and revers the rest of the steps to get running again.

Top Rack Would not Clean Properly

  • Customer: Ben from Lake Zurich IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
1) Remove the racks

2) Unattach the feed tube the runs from the bottom of the dishwasher tub along the back to the top (this is the grey plastic tube that the top rack sprayer plugs into). This is done by unclipping the tube in two places, one stainless clip is in the back of the tub and one stainless clip is on the top of the tub.

3) After the tube is loosened from the clips, give the tube a 45° twist clockwise (relative to the bottom of the tub) and then pull up. This should remove the entire feed tube and bottom sprayer assembly.

4) There are now 4 stainless steel torx screws visible on the bottom of the tube. Remove the screws using a torx driver. Remove the grey plastic "gear looking" piece that was held in by the screws by pulling straight up.

5) On the left hand side of the tub you will see one more (smaller) torx screw. Remove this screw and then with a pair of plyers, give the housing piece that was held on with the screw a tug straight upwards. There is a post sticking straight up that will help you do this.

6) The grinder assembly is now visible, and in my case, completely jammed with paper. Pull the grinder and screen out of the groove it is sitting in.

7) Place the new grinding and screen into the groove. The grinder blade will have to be pull back (toward you) so the grinder coupling teeth can properly engage with the motor coupling teeth. This may take some fiddling.

8) once the grinder is installed, reverse all the steps starting at step 5.

Very loud howling noise during operation

  • Customer: Patrick from Oak Grove MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced pump and motor. For the price of the products individually, it only made sense to do the whole thing. As someone else mentioned, much easier to remove the dishwasher and turn it on it's side to remove/replace. Disconnect 3 fittings, 3 stop devices and remove. Other than getting about 20 cuts on my hands from all the metal, it wasn't bad at all.

Dishwasher would not circulate water to clean

  • Customer: Robert from Clinton IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
My husband pulled out the dishwasher and removed the faulty part and installed the new one. We found info on the parts source website to assist us. Dishwasher works great!!! Someone from the company we purchased it from had replaced it several years ago, and the seal at the bottom had leaked and the motor had siezed because of the water. We also discoved that the water line was severly kinked in 2 places, so we installed a flexable hose. Now my dishwasher is quiet, fills much faster and all this for a fraction of the price of a new appliance. Would recommend this website.

After normal wash cycle upper rack dishes not clean

  • Customer: Gregory from Danvers MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First research then troubleshoot
Removed
1 Upper rack
2 Lower rack
3 Lower Wash Arm and Strainer Parts
4 Upper Wash and Rinse Parts
5 Accumulator assy.
6 Motor shield
7 Inlet protector (most difficult)
Noticed blade was broken off chopper assy.
Replaced chopper assy.
Runs and cleans like new.
Most difficult step was to remove Inlet protector
After removing two torx screws (#15) used small pry bar to lift inlet protector from position. Not easy to accomplish with hands alone. Inlet protector fits tightly into position.

Rinse aid dispenser was leaking

  • Customer: Mark from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screws holding the outside door panel to the inside door panel. Next (at this was the tricky part) was separating the panels. In our model of dishwasher, there is a layer of Styrofoam between the two panel to reduce noise. Unfortunately the Styrofoam is glued to both panels. Separating it without damage was not possible. So it was done with brute force and the Styrofoam broke in several places.

Replacing the dispenser involved removing six screws, disconnecting the wires and popping the dispenser out. The new one went in easily although there seemed to be a correct amount of tightening to do. It was tricky to get the cover back on because the Styrofoam pieces had to go back together like a puzzle.

Once reassembled, I ran the machine and it leaked at the dispenser. So the cover came back off. This time I played with the adjustment of the dispenser, testing it with the outside cover off, to insure that I had a tight, non-leaking seal. Once done, I put the cover back on and we are back in business.

The new dispensers do not have connections for the "Add Rinse Aid" light. They use a visual indicator on the dispenser itself. I simply taped the wire for the indicator light up and left it inside the door.

One last note, on our unit, the outside door panel is two pieces. I needed only to removed the lower portion for this repair. Unfortunately, I removed both and in the process broke the small plastic end on the door latch requiring me to purchase a new one. Bummer. That was a 10 minute repair though.

Dishwasher basin would fill and then dishwater would shut off. The water was not pumping into the cleaning showers.

  • Customer: James from Old Town ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
To empty the water in the dishwater basin, I pushed the cancel button and closed the door. I then turned the electrical breaker to the off position that supplies electricity to the dishwasher. I confirmed the power was off by attempting to start the dishwaser. I removed the metal plate between the dishwater door and the floor by removing the two screws. I removed the two screws that connect the top of the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. I shut the water valve that supplies hot water to the dishwasher (mine was located under the sink). I disconnected the drain hose (plastic) by using pliers to loosen the clamp the holds the hose on the outlet of the drain pump (drain pump is much smaller than the pump that needed replacement). A towell is handy to soak up the water that comes out the hoses. I loosened the nut on the water supply hose (this was difficult because of lack of room)using a wrench and pliers. I opened the door on the metal box that houses the wire nuts for the electrical connection to dishwater, and I removed the wire nuts and the screw for the ground wire. Once the white, black, and gound wires were disconnected, I could pull the dishwater out. I also had to pull the drain hose out from the clips on the side of the washer to pull the dishwasher out into the middle of the kitchen floor. I flipped the dishwasher on its back. I removed the single bolt that held the broken pump motor to the dishwasher, and then the motor twisted counterclockwise and I pulled it out. The pump shaft would not turn freely with my pliers, so I knew the motor was broken. I removed the pump end (impeller) from the dishwasher by tapping it with my screwdriver. The impeller end came out along with a metal screen. The metal screen was 50% plugged, so I cleaned it and put it back in place. I wet the gasket on the new pump motor and slid it back in place while rotating clockwise and locking it in place with the tabs. I replaced the bolt that holds the motor in place and reversed the repair procedure to re-install the dishwasher. Be sure to run the dishwasher and look for any leaks. The last step is to replace the metal plate between the floor and door. While I had the dishwasher pulled out, I discovered another problem with the pulleys and strings that prevent the heavy door from flopping down, but I won't include this repair. The pump and motor must have been failing for some time because the dishwasher is much quieter now and the dishwasher is much faster. I am sure the plugged screen didn't help either.
All Instructions for the GU1100XTLQ1
46-60 of 534