GTS22FBPARWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I pulled the inside cover in the freezer off, pulled the motor out of the bracket, replaced the fan blade , motor, and grommet and that was pretty much it. Very easy to replace. Parts select was fast and had the cheapest price available.
Thanks
Steven Roffey

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

I went in with the toolbox, and couldn't see the screws to loosen, so I tugged the gasket to see how it was attached. It just snapped down into a groove in the door. Pulled out the old one, snapped in the new one, and voila, it was done! Happy day, lucky me! Didn't even need my husband's help.

I noticed that if I unplugged the refrigerator and plugged it back in a while later it would start working but eventually would stop. I deduced the problem was likely the defrost thermostat. I ordered the thermostat but it was in a difficult place behind the evaporator coil which I could not remove. While I was trying to work it into position my hand pressed against the defrost coil and shattered the glass sheath. I ordered the coil and finally managed to get it and the thermostat installed. The refrigerator seems to work fine now.

Thanks to the very fine posts on this site, and availablity of parts, I didn't have to call in a repair man. Due to the near-10 year age of unit, I first ordered a new fridge for the kitchen and moved the GE to the garage. Let it manually defrost. Figured based upon comments posted here I was dealing with the defrost system problem so ordered the temperature sensors for top and botton, the defrost thermostat, and the defrost heater. As a wise poster said, if I am going to pull the damn thing apart, I'm going to make sure I have all three parts in case I need a particular one. Do not have the skill or gauges to troubleshoot electrical components. Parts arrived from Parts Select in great time, and excellent packaging protection. Parts Select also has great diagrams of the unit, although I could not find written repair instructions anywhere. At first I was going to wait for the parts to arrive and replace everything, but since there was a dely in getting the new fridge in, and the freezer section of the old fridge worked fine, once I had defrosted the old fridge, and cleaned up a few of the rusted over connections, I put everything back together, to await new fridge and receipt of parts for old fridge. Well, as is the story of my Karmic life, once fridge defrosted, and I put everything back together, plugged old unit in inside garage, everything came back up working perfectly on the recommended settings for both freezer and fridge sections. Has continued to maintain correct temps for over a week now. Also have new fridge. Don't recommend the top freezer Maytag one for about $700, as construction is cheap, and temps fluctuate all over the place. Had Home Depot exchange out for the LG $740 top freezer model, and am really impressed with its construction and performance so far. (Both units are recommended buys by ConsumerRepots.Org) Not sure how long old unit will keep running correctly, nor what caused it to come back to life after the defrost. Perhaps a simple clogged drain tube, or shorted out rusted electrical connections that I cleaned. Anyway, am keeping Part Select parts on hand for possible future breakdown, and enjoying having both fridges running. We needed additional freezer space, and got the peace of mind of a new unit for the kitchen.

I opened freezer and removed Ice maker. Then removed top fan hood and finally the freezer back panel. Unplug fridge.Removed fan bracket and swapped gromet and fand blade to new motor. Put back in fan bracket and reassembled.Note: Tried without putting back together to see if the fan worked and it won't. Must plug all connections in including ice maker for fan to function. Fixed problem and fridge is better than it ever was. Part Select was excellent,Fast shipping! Thanks

Replaced defrost thermostat along with temp sensor watched the video on this page simple fix

removed ice maker, back panel and two additional plastic trim pices to get to fan. Single molex connection for the wires. I got the part the next day. Wasn't expecting part for three to five days. Very impressed!

Removed the broken slide (two screws) replaced with the new part

I read stories from the website how others did it so I figured I would give it a try. I put all the frozen stuff in the refrigerator piled up. Took out the shelves. Took out 2 screws with a socket extension ( nut driver will work fine.) Remove the light bulb. lifted up on the back panel...it came right out. Saw the coils and on top the sensor. Took it off, cut the wires, spliced in the color coded new one ( pink to pink, orange to orange) Stuck it in the top coil in the original position and crossed my fingers! I put all the pieces back easily, restocked the freezer and waited. HOORAY!! My ice cubes are all separate and free. NO frost inside. A very easy fix for $20.

Note: If there is a large amount of ice build up on your coils a hair dryer works great. The drain is on the bottom anyway. Also , you may want to seal around the wire nuts to keep moisture out. I did

In freezer box removed shelf, removed 2 screws from back panel, removed 3 plastic covers (1 with 2 screws, other 2 snaped out. Unsnaped defrost thermostat from copper tube then cut 2 wires (yellow & orange) stripped all wires back a little then used 2 wire nuts to reconnect the new thermostat and resnapped back onto the copper tube. Removed 4 screws from evaporator fan housing (original one warped from overheat and caused fan blade to get chewed up) unpluged fan motor wiring and removed ground wire and motor from warped housing, removed fan plade by just pulling on it. Installed new fan blade by pushing it on the fan motor shaft, reinstalled the fan to the housing and the housing into the freezer box. In the frig box I removed the control panel from top of the box by removing 4 screws and unpluging the main wiring plug and the defroster control then reinstalled it all in reverse order. Also had to renew the stick on foam on the evap fan housing. Over all it was an easy task.

Raised side of fridge enough to get 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket under roller wheel assy. Removed three hex-head screws to separate damaged wheel assy from fridge frame. From panel below fridge compartment, backed-out stripped leveling screw. Mounted new roller assy and then threaded in new leveling screw from front. Lowered fridge and adjusted leveling screw for proper height. Suggest putting a 2x4 under fridge for safety when hands are under unit.

Like the other repair story I read about this part, the fridge was cool not cold (58* instead of an ideal 38*), and my ice cream stayed soft in the freezer. I removed the pannels in the freezer with a small socket wrench to find the fan burnt out. When the motor came, all I had to do was move the fan blade and gromets to the new motor. Closed it into the brackets and remounted it to the freezer. The part cost less here than at the factory web site and the fridge works great. Thank you PartSelect.com!

I visually inspected the compressor and narrowed down the source of the noise to the freezer area. Then I removed the doors and the screws securing the divider panel. Next I removed the bottom panel of the freezer, the styrofoam insullation panel and the evaporator motor. The motor is mounted between two grommets. I replaced the grommet facing the fan blades. The aluminum reflector below the styrofoam insulation panel had also come loose. I reattached it and reassembled the refrigerator in reverse order. The noise is gone!