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Leaking water pump
Disconnect water line and screws (2) holding dishwasher under cabinet, and clamp for wastewater line. Pulled dishwasher out, turned on its side, and removed pump. Disassembled pump per instructions (great instructions) and installed new parts. Reversed to reassemble and except for a loose clamp that leaked (I tightened) it went well. Just under 1 hour.
This was not a repair, But I wanted to comment on the excellence of service provided by Part Select. Please accept my appreciation for the ease of ordering, the excellent website format and speed of shipping the products that I ordered. Your staff clearly understands the excellence of service that so few companies provide today. Thank you again for your commitment to service. Jeff
The symptom was that none of the dishwashers light came on – it was totally dead With this repair the important thing was making sure I was replacing the right part. I also tested parts in order to avoid disassembling more than I needed. I checked the following: 1. Circuit breaker 2. Electricity was getting to the connection box underneath the dishwasher. (Require removing panels between DW door and floor). 3. Next I disassembled the DW inner door and checked the switch. Power was getting to the switch. When depressed, power was go on both sides of switch. 4. I pulled out the electronic control assembly (ASM) and checked that power was getting to the ASM; it was. (Note: be careful about what you touch, there is 110 volts out in the open). 5. I pulled the ASM from the enclosing plastic box that surrounds it. I looked at the circuit board to trace where power went from the connector. Not surprisingly, it went through a fuse then to a transformer. 6. I checked the fuse two ways: I checked it hot: power was getting through the fuse. I also unplugged the power and checked the resistance. The fuse was good. 7. Set the Volt-Ohm meter back to 300 Volts AC range – do not risk putting 110 volts into the ohms setting. 8. 110 volts was getting to the primary side of the transformer. There was no voltage on the other side. 9. I unplugged the power and checked the resistance of the primary side of the transformer. It was “open” – meaning a wire is broken inside the transformer. 10. This confirms the problem in on the ASM board. If I knew the voltage on the secondary of the transformer and radio-shack had such a part I guess I could try unsoldering it and replacing it. But I didn’t know that and there were signs of water corrosion on the board so I replaced it. 11. PartsSelect made the look up easy. Delivery was fast. The DW now works again.
Upper rack kept dropping from the wheels when we pulled it out
We knew roughly how we needed to put the cap on the rail, but our technique of simply forcing it in the end of the rail wasn't working. The trick is to bend the moveable part of the plastic cap inward while you're sliding it in, and it clicks right into place.
The location of the cap we were replacing was the upper back left, which made it a little tricky to reach back there and insert it, especially for a bigger guy like myself. We took the bottom rack out and my smaller wife was more easily able to lean in the dishwasher and reach back there to insert it.
Motor/Pump Siezed - Only Getting A "Humming" Sound
Only getting "humming" sound from dishwasher. Although water had filled the dishwasher tub, pump/motor would not operate. After some research, figured the motor had siezed and I had to replace the pump/motor assembly as mentioned on this site. The kit came in a couple days and I reserved a Sunday afternoon for the repair which I had never done before. Hardest part of repair was unhooking and removing dishwasher from under counter and then getting it back in proper place. I would suggest providing some instruction within the repair instructions showing how the dishwasher is installed or how to remove it as I had never installed one so I was not quite sure what screws etc I needed to remove on the dishwasher itself to start to remove it? I was able to find the original installation instruction for the dishwasher and found that all you had to do was remove two screws from the inside top of the dishwasher which were securing it to the bottom side of the kitchen counter and then the whole thing just slides out. Once removed, turned dishwasher over to access bottom where pump/motor is located. After determining which diagram to use with the instructions, proceeded to replace the motor/pump assembly. It came out easily after wrestling with some corroded bolts/nuts and the existing pump inlet and outlet hose clamps. Mine were old and worthless and no new ones (3-4") are supplied with the kit. Had to run to hardware store to get new hose clamps for the inlet/outlet of the pump before intalling new one. Suggest new hose clamps be provided with the kit. Only thing that was not too clear in instructions was when reconnecting power wiring harness to motor. By looking closely at the instruction diagram I was able to locate what looked to be the right power extension harness from the bag of parts and attach it to the existing power wire harness and the new motor. Suggest also that you somehow better distinguish or identify the proper way the power wire harness should be fastned to the motor? The existing power wires were both the same color and both the female and male connections for the power at the new motor were identical leaving you to guess which wire goes to which connection. After re-installing dishwasher, put about a gallon of water in bottom of unit prior to starting and then put it through a few cycles. It has been working just like new. Suggest having a helper when removing and re-installing dishwasher from under kitchen counter to assist with the power cord, water line, drain line, and help to turn the dishwasher upside down and right side up again.
Went to repair parts on troubleshooting and found check valve assembly to be most common problem. Went to parts diagram to locate assembly and found it somewhat confusing as to exact location. Ordered part(s) on percentage as the problem. Received part next day (great)! Pulled dishwasher out and found I did NOT need to do so to replace check valve which is replaced without having to remove dishwasher. The gasket replacement was not necessary as it seals sump area from bottom of dishwasher and not the valve as it appears on the parts diagram. It took about 2 minutes to replace valve itself and it was the cause of the problem.
Read directions. They were poorly drawn. Set them aside. Opened up unit on December 26th. I made careful observation of the wiring, two hoses, one metal bracket, the hose two clamps, and then proceeded. Instructions said 1 to 2 hours, to complete. Ha Ha, perhaps if you've done it before. It was actually really closer to four hours. When done, it worked perfectly. The best part, my wife said: "This was the best Christmas present ever!" That made my day! Dishes are clean again, just like new! Thank you: www.PartsSelect.com.
