Models > GLTR1670AS0 > Instructions

GLTR1670AS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for GLTR1670AS0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GLTR1670AS0
46-60 of 316
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Noise During Spin Cycle

  • Customer: Bernie from Point Roberts WA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Using a cordless drill and driver bit I removed the back cover, bottom front cover and top. I then removed the rubber bellowed hose connecting the soap dispenser to the rubber boot in front. This one was tricky to reinstall because the fastener for the hose is twisted steel wire that needs to be undone when reinstalling. It slid off easily enough but would not slide back on easily. There is a second small bellowed hose that connects the dispenser to the outer drum casing. This needs to be removed as well. It comes off easily and went back on easily. I used a one sided razor to cut the glue dots connecting the front boot to the washer door frame. After that I removed the belt from the motor and drum pulley by hand and then removed the motor mounting bolts using a ratchet and socket. This went smoothly. I now propped up the drum using 4x4 cutoff blocks to take the weight off the springs and shocks. I then removed to the lower upper plastic pins that hold the shock onto the plastic spin drum casing. I used a wooded block and a hammer to tap the pins out. Be sure to push in the lock on the tapered end of pin shaft. The second pin was a little more difficult to remove and required quite a bit of tapping to push it all the way through. I tried adjusting the weight on the shocks several times to make it easier to come out. The pin was slightly damaged by the time I got it out from hitting it. It went back in OK so I don't think the damage will cause any problems. Next I got someone to help lift the drum to release the weight on the springs and removed then from the top end. You need to remove the spring clamps that hold the spring down at the top end. I used a wrench to remove the bolt that holds the pullet on the drum shaft. The pulley was easy to pry off shaft by placing two flat screw drivers between the shaft and the bearing casing and twisting the screw drivers. Once the pulley was removed I turned the spin drum casing upside down and supported the outer casing with two stacks of 4x4 cutoff blocks. This would allow the stainless steel drum to be supported above the floor and drop freely as the shaft worked it way out of the bearing casing. Getting the drum shaft out of the outer housing bearing was the most difficult part of this whole process. The shaft was rusty and therefore did not easily slide through the two bearing casings. Before hitting the drum shaft to remove it from the bearing casing I put the washer and bolt back on the shaft to protect the shaft from hammer/mallet damage. I tried a mallet but it only moved the shaft part way and then it wouldn't slide further. I then used a 1/2" steel pipe cutoff as a punch seated around the pulley bolt to alloy me to use a hammer to beat the shaft out of the bearing casing. It required a tremendous amount of force to move the shaft. Once the shaft was removed from the old drum casing I spent some time cleaning the back of the stainless steel drum including using emery cloth to remove the rust from the shaft and polish it the best I could. Be sure not to damage the brass bushing that the rubber bearing seal rides on to prevent water leakage. Once the drum and shaft were cleaned up the reassembly process when smoothly I simply reassembled the washer in the reverse order or the disassembly. The shaft went into the new bearings snugly which I was pleased to see since the snug fit meant that the water would be sealed in and the drum would spin true. The hardest part was reattaching the large bellowed hose onto the soap dispenser because it require undoing the twisted steel wire clamp and getting it back together in a very tight space. I use a combination of a flat screw driving and a needle nose pliers to wrestle it back together. The finished job resulted in a very quiet smoothly operating washer which we expect will give us another 5 years of service.

locking mechanism spring broke

  • Customer: laura from willow creek CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Watched video which was very helpful

Washer would leak water out the bottom.

  • Customer: Larry from East Point KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws holding the front panel on and removed the panel. The hose is held on by two spring clips and a hose clamp. After getting those out of the way, I removed the damaged hose and slid the new one into place and fastening it down with the aforementioned clips and clamp.

Front loading washing machine broken shock absorber

  • Customer: Thomas from Epping NH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
The illustarated parts break down on the Part select web site was an awesome resource. It identified the exact part that was damaged by part number and comprehensive drawing. The part was ordered utilizing the drawings and on my doorstep within two working days, regular ground shipping. The securing pins were removed from the damaged shock absorber by driving them out with a screw driver (used in place of a drift punch) and a rubber mallet. The new shock absorber was placed in position and the securing pins were installed easily by hand and were securely in place when an auditable click was heard from the securing pin when fully engaged. The shock absorber kit came with an additional securing pin in case one of the original pins were damaged. The replacement part was of superior quality to the original.

Water wouldn't drain from washing machine and clicking sound when trying to run

  • Customer: Bruce from Alfred Station NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Used a shop vac to suck all the water through the drain hose. Removed the bottom front panel held by two screws on bottom and two plastic pins at the top. Removed electric connector on front of pump. Removed two screws holding pump down. Used pliers to move spring clips back so hoses could be removed. Put hoses on new pump and squeezed clamps with pliers to pull them back over the hose connection. The connection on the left was a little bit of a pain due to space limitations. Screwed the new pump down and reconnected the electric plug. Put the bottom cover back on and screwed it into place.

Rubber seal (boot) needed to be replaced.

  • Customer: Jon from Stevens Point WI
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I began by removing the seal from the exterior lip of the machine housing. I took a razor and removed any rubber and adhesive that remained on the unit.

Next, I remove the boot from the soap dispenser tube (located at about 11:00 of the opening) with a needlenose plyers. The manual recommends flattening a 3" copper pipe to fashon a tool to release the "bread tie" fastener. I can see why but patience with a needlenose sufficed.

I pulled the boot down from the tub housing (with much force) exposing the band that holds the boot in firmly. I one pull, both pieces came out. I could tell getting the new one is was going to be a chore.

I cleaned the area and after about 40 strenuous minutes of getting the new boot onto the tub, only a couple things remained. Even with help, be prepared to dedicate hours of frustration getting the band around the boot securing it to the tub. The working space is minimal and the task is virtually hopeless to slightly possible.

Once that's taken care of, you may feel like you can accomplish anything. The rest goes up in the order it came out. Make sure you slide the boot up as far up the soap dispensing unit as possible before securing the bread tie clamp.

Run the seal around, close the door and have one of you kids clean up the work area (and mop the blood, sweat and tears from the unit and the floor.

pump quit working , washer was full of water!

  • Customer: ROBIN from BLOOMINGTON IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
first took off old pump off by removing 2 screws and removed 2drain hoses under front load washer with pair of pliers then put new pump on same as removal.

Door lock switch plastic bits broke

  • Customer: Herbert from Amherst NH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
The previous posts made it dead easy - remove screws at the back holding top in place; slide top back; remove screws holding door latch assembly; disconnect three plugs, and connect new part. Replace fastenings, done! Throw up hands and wait for the official time;)

Thumping vibration on spin cycle

  • Customer: Kerry from Pasadena CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the front lower panel. Remove the 4 plastic pins mounting the shocks using 1/2 inch short socket to hold the detent down as per included instructions. All plastic pins were stuck in place so used needle nose pliers to pull or push out. Lube the pins with grease before reinstall to help them go through the new shocks. Use the included lock nuts to lock the four legs in place as low as possible. Start the washer and level each leg while running so you can tell if the vibration is going away. Tedious method but worked.

NO COLD WATER

  • Customer: Mark from Pittsburgh PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
CHECKED PROBLEM ON-LINE AND DISCOVERED IT WAS THE WATER INLET VALVE. MATCHED THE PART ON PART SELECT.COM. FINDING THE PART WAS VERY EASY. PART SELECT HAD A GRID BEHIND THE PICTURE TO HELP DETERMINE THE SIZE AND PICTURES FROM ALL SIDES. REMOVING THE OLD PART, MATCHING IT, AND REPLACEMENT TOOK A TOTAL OF 30 MINUTES. I NOW HAVE CLEAN CLOTHES.

crack in drain hose

  • Customer: mary from port jefferson station NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First I went on-line and found a download for the parts catalogue which contains a schematic for the washer. After looking this over I could determine how to get the washer apart! After getting the front panel off, I disconnected the drain hose from the pump with a pair of water-pump pliers. As I pulled this hose out, water spilled out all over the floor, so I then cleaned that up. Next I connected the new hose and put the machine back together. This job would have cost me over $150 if I had called in a repairman. PartSelect saved me so much money, and I thank them so much!

Washing machine wouldn't drain or spin. It would run through its cycle, but only agitate.

  • Customer: Jen from Lebanon OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Use a cup to take the water out of the washer. Get at least three large towels -- you're going to have to sop up the water when you disconnect the hoses.

Take the bottom panel off (2 Phillips head screws). Drain pump is on the right side.

Remove the two screws holding the pump to the metal bottom plate. Use a small socket wrench and/or a screwdriver. I had to use a screwdriver on the right screw and a socket wrench on the left screw! Place as many towels in the cavity as you can to catch the water that's going to come out when you detach the hoses.

There is an inlet hose and an outlet hose, attached with bright green clamps. Remove those with pliers. Clean up the water that drains out. The hose in the back (inlet) has a "coin catcher" area. Clean this out.

Attach the hoses to the new pump. Screw it down. Replace the bottom panel.

drain pump stopped working

  • Customer: Robert from Camby IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First, I unplugged the unit, then took out the hold down screw. Next I took off both snap rings and layed towels down. Pulled off both hoses. Finally reattached in reverse order. I did not have the problem of others with the snap rings they came off easy and went back on easy.

Tub to pump hose leaking

  • Customer: Barbara from Los Angeles CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
From the front of the washer, I removed two sheet metal screws at the bottom of the access panel. The panel pulled off with a just a little effort due to the nylon inserts installed on either side of the panel that keep it in place. The tub-to-pump hose is located on the right hand side and easy to access. The hose includes a screw clamp and two tension retainer (?) clamps that need to be removed.Make sure to save them for the new hose! I used a phillips head screwdriver for the screw clamp and a pair of channel locks to remove the tension retainer clamps. The tension retainer clamps were easy to remove but tricky to put back on. There must be another tool used for them that I'm not familiar with. With just a little patience though, it's an easy enough repair for anyone to do.

right side tub mounting spring broke

  • Customer: Lisa from Phoenix AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
disconnected electric and water supply. removed back cover from front loading washer. removed two screws from spring end plate on the top of the washer. replaced old spring with new spring/insulators by lifting the tub and hooking the new spring on. replaced the back cover and top spring cover plate. reconnected water supply and electric. machine is working like it did before the spring broke. very easy fix. the majority of the effort was moving the washer around to get easy access.
All Instructions for the GLTR1670AS0
46-60 of 316